UMASS/AMHERST 


m  THE 


NEW    HAMPSHIRE 


M? 


A^MDEN'EMa 


®»  %.  iE>.  '^mM< 


WITH  .NUMEEOU3  ILLUSTRATIONS, 


PETEilEORo': 

Pu BLISHED  BY  K.  C.  SCOTT. 
1852. 


LIBRARY 


OF  THE 


MASSACHUSETTS 

AGRICULTURAL 

COLLEGE 


SOURCE 


jGDlIe^:^—.- ^.UT\ci: 


SB 

t8U 


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only,  and  is  subject  to  a  fine  of  TWO 
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Libnu-y  Uurean    I  3  -  72  3 


NEW    HAMPSHIRE 

liKil  illli  Ml  IIIIM 

GARDENER. 


%  @^  JB*  #Sil!)^^< 


WITH  NUMEROUS  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PETERBORO': 

PUBLISHED  BY  K.  C.  SCOTT. 

1852. 


(_  "5,  3 


PREFACE. 


The  Author  does  not  hi}'  clami  to  entire  originality 
in  the  following  pages,  but  acknowledges  himself  un- 
der great  obligations  to  many  distinguished  writers 
upon  Horticulture.     In  some  few  instances  he  has  al- 
tered the  dates  in  the  extracts,  to  suit  the  latitude  of 
New  Hampshire.     He  also  acknowledges  the  receipt 
of  many  suggestions  and  valuable  articles  written  ex- 
pressly for  the  work.     Due  credit  has  been  given  for 
all  borrowed  matter.     He  has  endeavored  to  furnish  a 
book  adapted  to  the  wants  and  within  the  means  of 
every  one.  In  the"Kitchen  Gardener,"he  has  given  full 
directions  for  cultivating  the  various  vegetables  suited 
to  this  climate,  also  recipes  for  cookuigthe  same,  which 
he  thinks  will  be  appreciated  in  the  kitchen  and  at  the 
table.     In  the  "Fruit  Gardener,"  the  list  of  fruits  is 
not  so  large  as  to  perplex  the  beginner  in  the  selec- 
tion of  kinds,  yet  sufficiently  extensive  to  include 
nearly  all  of  our  best  varieties.     He  hopes  that  the 
directions  for  cultivation  in  this  department  will  prove 
satisfactory.     In  the  "Floral  Gardener,"  he  has  given 
directions  for  the  cultivation  and  a  selection  of  the 
most  choice  flowers  that  ornament  our  Parlors  and 
Gardens.     His  limits  have  compelled  him  to  be  concise, 
yet  he  trusts  that  the  directions  are  such  as  to  produce 
vegetables,  fruits,  and  flowers,  sufficiently  perfect  to 
5;atisfy  all  reasonable  expectations. 


T  II  E 

mmm  iiii 


PRELIMINARY    OBSERVATIONS. 

The  want  of  a  small  Garden  Manual,  suited  to  the 
ti^.oil  and  climate  of  New-Hampshire,  has  been  very 
generally  felt.  There  are,  already,  a  large  number  of 
Horticultural  Works,  Ijut  most  of  them  are  adapted 
to  a  clmiate  farther  South  than  New-Hampshire. — 
Their  expensCj  too,  as  a  general  thing,  renders  their' 
extensive  introduction,  a  matter  of  considerable  diffi- 
culty. It  is  proposed,  in  this  work,  to  obviate  these 
difficulties  as  far  as  practicable,  by  presenting  the  pub- 
lic with  a  work  whose  cheapness  places  it  within  the 
reach  of  every  one,  and  yet,  the  directions  of  which, 
shall  be  sufficiently  copious  for  the  successful  cultiva- 
tion of  the  Kitchen,  Fruit  and  Flower  Garden. 

Situation  of  a  Garden. — Perhaps  a  majority  of  those 
into  whose  hands  this  work  will  fall,  have  already  se- 
lected their  situation,  and  made  their  arrangements, 
so  that  it  would  be  a  matter  of  inconvenience  to 
change  the  location ;  but  where  this  is  not  the  case, 
the  selection  of  a  situation  is  a  matter  of  no  inconsid- 
i^rable  importance,  and  should  be  assiduously  attend- 
ee! to.  Cold  winds  should  be  guarded  against,  espec- 
ially those  l^lowing  from  the  North,  North-Ead^  and 
Nd)ih-West.  A  full  exposure  to  the  sun  is  essential 
for  the  production  of  most  culinary  vegetables,  and  to 
obtain  this,  it  is  necessary  to  have  the  garden  on  a 
gentle  declivity  to  the  south,  bearing,  perhaps,  a  little 
to  the  east,  that  it  may  have  the  benefit  of  the  morn- 
ing sun.  A  northern  aspect  is  to  be  avoided,  except 
for  some  few  kinds  of  vegetables,  which  grow  there 


6 

in  greater  perfection  than  anywhere  else.  Among 
these  are  salads,  spinach,  cauVflmver,  and  some  others. 
Peas,  also,  in  the  hot,  dry,  summer  m.onths,  are  here 
produced  in  great  perfection,  long  after  they  have 
ceased  to  bear  in  warmer  situations.  Trees  upon  the 
south  side  of  the  Garden  are  injurious  as  they  cast 
their  shadows  over  it,  w^heh  vegetables  require  the 
genial  rays  of  the  sun,  and  also,  by  their  long  taper- 
ing roots,  exhaust  much  of  the  goodness  of  the  soil, 
which  should  assist  in  the  production  of  healthy  and 
l)ixuriant  plants.  Continued,  dense  vapors,  have  an 
i^ajurious  effect  upon  most  garden  vegetables ;  there- 
^re^  low  grounds  are  unsuitable  situations,  and  should 
be.avoided.  Taking  these  facts  into  consideration,  no 
one  need  hesitate  as  to  the  proper  situation  of  a  Garden. 
Soil.— The  principal  soils  to  be  avoided,  are  those 
in  which  c/ay,  or  ^r«y<?/,  is  the  chief  constituent.  A 
clay  subsoil,  though  six  feet  from  the  surface,  from  its 
coldness,  will  retard  the  early  crops  a  week  or  ten 
d^ys;  while  on  the  other  hand,  a  gravelly  soil  or  sub- 
soil, though  it  hastens  early  crops,  is  so  subject  to 
drought  during  hot  weather  as  to  make  it  very  un- 
profitable. The  proper  soil,  therefore,  is  a  rich,  deep, 
friable  loam  with  a  sand  subsoil.  But  where  this  can  - 
not  be  had,  it  is  very  desirable  to  improve  that  which 
>ve  do  have,  that  it  may  be  able  to  supply  the  w^ants 
of  plants.  Clayey  soils  are  cold  and  sour.  To  cor- 
rect tjhem  apply  white  sand,  chalk,  lime,  or  wood  ash- 
es. Turn  the  soil  frequently,  as  frost  and  air  have  a 
tendency  to  overcome  this  acidity.  Waste  lime  about 
old  buildings  in  the  shape  of  plaster  and  morter,  and 
fJsQ  charcoal,  have  the  same  effect.  To  improve  a 
^andy  soil,  mix  in  clay,  peat,  or  vegetable  mould.  The 
mould  best  suited  for  renewing  or  improving  land,  is 
the  surface,  to  the  depth  of  a  foot,  of  some  field  or 
road-side,  which  has  lain  fallow  for  a  number  of  years 
a^d  has  become  perfectly  matted  with  grass  roots. — 
This  thrown  into  piles  the  year  before  use,  ferments, 
and  makes  one  of  the  best  (^^  garden  soils. 


Mancres. — The  mauare  heap;  is  the  capital  of  the 
Gardener.  Care  should  be  taken  to  augment  it  as 
much  as  possible.  With  it,  the  gardener  can  do  ever- 
ything; without  it,  nothing.  "If  there  is  a  large  sup- 
ply of  manure,  it  will  be  best  to  mix  it  with  the  soil 
whenever  it  may  be  spaded  or  trenched.  A  portion 
shoald  be  incorporated  with  the  substratum  every 
time  it  is  dug  over,  so  as  to  hasten  its  gradual  improve- 
ment. Another  portion  should  be  kept  near  the  sur- 
face, that  the  young  roots  may  not  have  far  to  travel 
in  search  of  nutriment.  Should  the  supply  be  small, 
or  not  large  enough  to  admit  of  this  broadcast  appli- 
cation, put  it  in  the  hills  or  drills,  for  the  large  vege« 
tables."  But  in  every  case,  it  ought  to  be  thoroughly 
incorporated  with  the  soil,  and  if  fermentation  has 
xiot  taken  place,  this  work  should  be  done  in  Autumn, 
so  as  to  prevent  the  parching  effects  upon  plants, 
arisino;  from  fermentino;  manures.  There  are  several 
kinds  of  manm^e  valuable  for  horticultural  purposea 

Horse  dune/. — This  stands  at  the  head,  because 
of  its  general  use,  and  its  superior  fertilizing  effecta 
Its  quality  depends  in  a  measure,  upon  the  food  given 
the  animal,  and  the  care  that  is  taken  to  preserve  the 
volatile  matters  of  the  m^anure  by  composting  it  soon 
after  it  comes  from  the  stable.  Plaster  of  Paris,  spread 
upon  it,  retains  the  aminonia,that  is  in  part  expelled  by 
the  decom])osition. 

Coio  dung. — This  is  colder  than  the  dung  of  the 
horse,  and  therefore,  retains  its  virtue  longer.  It  should 
be  housed  rather  than  remain  for  months  exposed  to 
the  injurious  effects  of  rain  and  the  sun.  It  should, 
also,  be  thoroughly  mixed  with  loam,  and  remain  un* 
til  it  is  fermented. 

Pig  dung. — This  is  an  excellent  manure  for  some 
vegetables,  especially,  for  corn  and  plants  o^  the  gourd 
tnhe.  It  is  not  suitable  for  vegetables  ihat  are  valued 
for  their  roots,  as  it  imparts  a  rank  taste  to  them.  A 
pig  n^ay  be  made  to  earn  his  living,  by  working  up 
^vnm  sods,  weeds,  before   their   seeds    havx?   matured, 


forest  leaves,  and  the  various  refuse  vegetable's  about 
the  premises. 

Giimw. — The  Peruvian  is  the  best.  It  is  very  pow- 
erful and  stimulating,  and  h,  therefore,  valuable  for 
forwarding  early  vegetables.  It  requires  great  cati- 
tion  in  application,  as  otherwise,  it  destroys  the  plant 
that  it  is  intended  to  invigorate.  By  preparing  it  in 
the  following  manner,  it  may  he  used  with  great '  ad- 
vantage. 

Before  using  guano,  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  and 
all  lumps  remaining,  break  up,  and  these  pass  through 
the  sieve.  Then  take  at  least  six  times  its  bulk  of 
mould,  or  light  loamy  soil,  and  this  pass  through  a  coars- 
er sieve,and  mix  it  in  layers  with  the  guano.  Over  this 
spread  a  thin  coat  of  charcoal,  or  plaster  of  Paris,  or 
both.  These  are  to  retain  tlie  ammonia.  Let  this 
compost  remain  a  fevf  days,  then  turn  it  over  and 
mix  it  well  together,  and  then  it  is  ht  for  use.  Lime 
and  ashes  must  be  avoided,  as  they  rapidly  expel  the 
ammonia,  and  in  that  way  rob  the  compost  of  its  most 
valuable  part. 

When  it  is  desirable  to  use  it  in  a  liquid  form,  put 
one  teacupful  into  four  gallons  of  water.  Stir  it 
well  and  cover  the  vessel  tight  to  prevent  the  escape 
of  the  anmionia,  and  let  it  remiaiu  from  one  to  three 
days  before  being  used.  "  Water  aroimd,.  vol  vpor?,,  the 
plant,  for  if  the  liquid  touches  the  plinit  or  its  leaves, 
it  is  liable  to  burn  them.  The  compost  should  be  ap- 
plied around  tlie  plants,  at  the  rate  of  a  spoonful  of 
guano  to  a  hill  of  corn,  and  to  other  plants  in  propor- 
tion, and  hoed  in,  so  as  not  to  come  in  immediate  con- 
tact \y  it  h  the  roots.  Guano  costs  fvom  9s4-.  to  ^i].  per 
hundred  pounds. 

,  Poudrdtc. — This  is  very  exciting  and  like  guano, 
well  adapted  to  forwarding  early  crops.  Care  should 
be  taken  to  piirchase  none  but  that  of  superior  quah- 
ty,  for  much  of  that  ]iurchased  by  famners  and  gar- 
deners is  almost  wortliless.  From  eight  to  ten  Inish- 
els  Avill  manure  one  acre  of  corn.     Tliis  is  hi<r]dv  rec- 


ommendecl  hy  DoAvning  for  strawl)erri(^j^/aR  H.alToi\]s 
a  permanent  and  powerful  stimnlns,  aiid  is  free  from 
weed  seed.  That  nianufactnred  ])y  the  Lodi  Compa- 
ny, has  a  very  Iiigh  reputation. 

Hen  and  Pigeon  dv.nrj. — These  are  actlve^and  power- 
ful fertilizers.  Every  farmer  by  taking  a  little  pains, 
can  gather  a  considerable  quantity  hy  properly  man- 
a«:ino;  his  Jienhouse.  When  o'athered  it  should  be 
mixed  with  plaster  or  charcoal  dust  to  retain  the  am- 
monia. When  preserved  in  this  way  it  is  almost,  if 
not  quite   equal  to  the  imported  guo.no. 

Charcoal — It  should  be  applied  in  small  lumps  or 
dust.  It  being  porous,  it  has  the  power  of  a'osorj^ing 
various  gasses  from  the  atmosphere,  and,  when  subse- 
quently placed  in  the  soil,  it  readily  yields  them  to 
the  plants.  It  also  loosens  tough  soils,  and,  by  its 
black  color,  ii\creases  their  warmth.  Its  effect  in  Hqw- 
er  gardens  is,  perhaps,  more  marked  and  obvious,  than 
any  where  else,  it  giving  a  deeper  color  to  everything 
to  which  it  is  applied. 

SaU.—Thh  article  of  late  years,liasbeen  extensive- 
ly used  as  a  fertilizer.  It  should  be  sown  broad-cast 
or  incorporated  with  other  articles  in  the  compost  heap, 
jtt.is  especially  adapted  to  the  plum  tree,  sea-kale,  as- 
paragrass  and  plants  of  a  like  nature.  It  is  said  that 
an  asparagrass  bed  may  be  so  covered  as  to  kill  all 
weeds,  and  yet  it  proves  beneficial  to  the  asparagrasg? 
producing  larger,  and  more  succulent  sprouts*         ",; 

Bone  Dust. — This  article  is  peculiarly  adapted  to 
ra^ising  turnips,  wheat  and  grass.  It  is  an  excellent 
fertilizer  to  place  about  old  Pear  trees,  where' -some  of 
the  elements  of  the  soil  are  so  exhausted  as  to  cause 
.the^  fruit  to  crack,  Horn  shavings  from  comb  manti- 
fa^cturies  have  the  same  effect. 

^..  Ashes- — These  may  be  used,  leached  or  unleached, 
,with  good  effect,  at  all  seasons  and  in  all  kinds  of  soils, 
though  th-ey  best  snit  lands  of  a  light,  sandy,  or  gtaV- 
dly  nature.      Every   family  makes   more  or  less' of 


10 

these,  so   that   they    are    easily  obtained,  and  are  of 
great  importance  to  the  horticulturalist. 

Lime. — This  is  a  valuable  article  for  the  compost 
heaps,  as  it  causes  very  perfect  fermentation,  especial- 
ly, if  the  chief  ingredient  of  that  heap  be  ^fallow  soil, 
that  has|become  matted  with  grass  roots. 

Plaster  of  Paris  or  GiJi^sum. — This  is  valuable  for 
most  plants.  It  is  used  as  a  top  dressing  after  hoeing. 
It  requires  to  be  soAvn  early  so  as  to  have  the  benefit 
of  moisture,  and  to  insure  its  decomposition,  where  it 
is  used  for  a  grass  crop. 

Compost  Heap. — This  may  be  made  from  fallow  soil, 
meadow  mud,  leaves  gatliered  under  forest  trees,  re- 
fuse vegetables  about  the  garden,  weeds  before  they 
have  gone  to  seed,  lime  (fee.  Weeds  may  be  covered 
slightly  in  hoeing  so  as  to  kill  them,  but  not  so  deep 
as  to  prevent  them  from  decaying,  and  in  that  w^ay 
-enrich  the  ground.  This  should  not  be  done  when 
they  have  gone  to  seed,  as  it  would  be  multiplying 
^our  future  labor. 

The  Tools  and  Tool  House. — The  old   maxim,  "A 

place   for  everything,   and  everything  in  its  place,*' 

•should  be  strictly  observed  by  the  gardener.      Of  all 

•men,  he  ought  to  economize  his  time.     As  soon  as  the 

Spring  opens,  he  has  his  grounds  to  prepare,  his  seed 

to  plant,  his  early  plants  to  transplant  and  protect,  and 

^from  that  time  till  the  crop   matures,  he  has  to  make 

a  continual  war  upon  insects  and  weeds.     The   waste 

of  ten  minutes  a  day  in  hunting  up  tools,  amounts  \» 

rf(*  serious  loss  at  the  end  of  the  year.     Beside,  if  tools 

are  scattered  about  in  various  parts  of  a  garden,  they 

.^'re  subject  to  numerous  injuries  which  they  would 

r^scape  were  they  properly  cared  for.     A  very  neat 

tool  house,  and  cheap  one,  too,   may  be  made  in  the 

centre  of  the  garden,  in  the  shape  of  an  arbor,  or  sum- 

jmer  house.     Over  it,  grape  vines  may  be  trained,  and 

in  that  way  it  may  be  made  an  object  of  convenience 

vJ^nd  beauty  in  the  grounds.     Boxes  may  be  made  for 

),^ho  , smaller  tools,  such  as  hoes,  spades,  rakes,  water- 


ing  pots,  trowels  &c.,  under  the  seats  in  the  arbor. — 
The  larger  articles,  such  as  Hot  Bed  frames  and  sash, 
wheelbarrow  &c.,  can  be  put  into  some  other  building. 
Where  the  garden  is  not  large  enough  to  have  a  con- 
venience like  this,  there  should  be  a  space  allotted  to 
garden  tools  in  some  shed,  barn  or  other  out  house. — 
Proper  hooks  should  be  put  up  upon  which  to  hang 
ijhem,  so  that  they  may  be  out  of  the  way.  The 
wooden  part  of  the  tools  should  be  painted,  and  the 
initials  of  the  owners  name,  or  the  name  itself,  be 
marked  upon  each.  Tools,  like  sheep,  will  stray  front 
one  lot  to  another,  and  should,  therefore,  be  branded. 
The  steel  parts  should  be  cleansed  before  they  are 
put  away,  so  that  they  may  not  be  rusted  dnd  unfit 
for  use  when  wanted.  A  little  care,  bestowed  in  this 
way,  is  amply  repaid.  Tools  out  of  repair  should  be 
mended  before  restored  to  their  places. 

Figure  1. 


Hot  Bed  Frame  and  Sash.— Hot  beds  are  necessary 
in  almost  every  New-Hampshire  garden,  where  pe^ 
I)le  intend  to  have  early  vegetables.  In  fact,  there 
are  some  kinds  that  cannot  be  raised  in  perfectitwi 
Hvithout  them.  Among  these  are  Cauliflower,  Toii^^- 
to,  Egg-plant  &c.  The  frame  should  be  made  of  jitok 
nine  niches  high  in  front,  and  eightem  inches  at  the  back. 
Hie  top  should  be  so  made,  that  the«aslican  be  shov- 
6d  up,  as  in  the  above  cut,  or  raised  by  in^ei^ting  a 
\^M^e  between  the  sash  and  frame  at  the   back  mde, 


1- 

to  let  olF  the  .steam  tluit  arises  Irom  the  fermenting 
manure.  Thi,s^  if  retahied  too  long,  will  have  an  in- 
jurious effect  upon  the  pliuits.  The  frame  should  be 
made,  about  four  feet  wide  and  of  any  required  length^' 
The  sash  should  be  made  stout,  without  any  cross  pie- 
ces for  the  glass  to  rest  upon.  The  glass  should  be 
lapped,  one  over  another,  so  that  the  rain  may  run  off. 
By  carefully  examining  the  cut,  any  joiner  will  be 
able  to  make  a  suitable  sash  and  frame. 
,^]jGerman  Hot  Beds. — Take  white  cotton  cloth,  of  a 
close  texture,  stretch  and  nail  it  on  frames  of  any 
size  3^0 u  wish;  take  two  ounces  of  lime  water,  four 
qmices  linseed  oil,  one  ounce  white  of  eggs,  two 
ounces  yolk  of  eggs ;  mix  the  lime  water  and  oil  with 
very  gentle  heat^  beat  the  eggs  well,  and  mix  with 
the:  former,  and  spread  this  mixture  with  a  paint 
brush  oyer  the  cloth,  allowing  each  coat  to  dry  before 
applying  another.  Pursue  this  course  until  the  cloth 
becomes  water  proof  This  may  be  used  with  good 
effect,  as  we  know  by  experience.  It  possesses  the 
following  advantages  over  glass  sash : — 

1st  The  cost  is  hardly  one-sixth. 

2d  Repairs  are  easily  made. 

3d  No  matter  how  intense  the  heat  of  the  sun,  the 
plants  are  never  struck  down  or  burnt,  or  checked  in 
growth,neither  do  they  grow  up  long  and  weakly;  yet 
there  is  sufficient  light  to  produce  green  and  hardy 
plants. 

4th  The  heat  arising  almost  entirely  from  below, 
is  more  equable^  and  temp e,^q;te,  which  is  a  gr:e^t.,lien- 
efit.  ,'.'■'!  ^' 

,  .ji']iey.,'arej  very  convenient  for  bringing  forward 
flowers  in  season  for  transplanting.  We  do  not  rec- 
ommend them  as  an  entire  substitute  for  glass,  m 
raising  ver?/  early  plants. 

Hand  Glasses. — They  are  made  of  iron  or  wooden 
sash  and  are  pyramidal  in  form.  They  may  he  cov- 
ered also  with  cloth,  prepared  as  it  is  for  the  Ger- 
ia;ni  Hot  Bed.     They  are  used  to  protect  Hot  Bed 


1.^ 

plants,  during  cold  etormg  and  nights,  'vrhich  follow 
their  transplanting. 

Figure  2.  Vme  Shidil-These  are  small 

frames,  made  of  thin  boards, 
with  a  pane  of  glass  in  the 
top.  The  \^  should  be  made  with 
a  bevel  as  represented  in  the 
cut,  (fig.  2)  so  that  they  can 
be  packed  away  when  they  are  not  in  use.  They 
can  be  covered  with  the  Hot  bed  cloth  and  answer  a 
good  purpose.  They  are  used  in  protecting  young 
plants  from  the  cold,  and  the  attack  of  bugs. 

Spades, — Every  tool  house  should  have  at  least  one 
good  spade.  No  tool  about  the  garden  is  of  more  im- 
portance.  Buy  a  good  article,  it  costs  but  a  trifle  more 
than  a  poor  one. 

Shovels  and  Forks. — Have  at  least  one  good  shovel 
and  one  good  fork.  These,  properly  taken  care  of, 
will  last  for  years.  Forks  are  sometimes  used  as  a 
substitute  for  the  spade,  and  with  good  effect  when 
the  ground  is  wet,  as  it  prevents  the  baking  which  fol- 
lows the  use  of  that  tool. 

Figure  3.  Garden    Troicel — The 

Trowel  is  a  very  conven- 
ient tool  for  transplant- 
ing Tomatoes,  Cabbages, 
&c.,  as  you  can  take  up 
A  ball  of  earth  large  enough  so  as  not  disturb  the 
roots.     Fig.  3,  represents  the  proper  pattern  for  use. 

Wheelbarrow. — Every  garden  of  any  considerable 
Bi»e,  should  have  a  good  wheelbarrow  made  of  light 
but  strong  materials.  It  should  be  painted  once  a 
year  if  used  to  a  great  extent. 

DibUe. — This  is  'used  in  transplanting  tap-rooted 
plants.  It  may  be  made  of  an  old  spade  handle,  sharp- 
ened at  the  lower  end,  with  several  holes  bored  at  va- 
rious heights  into  which  pegs  may  be  placed  to  regu- 
late its  insertion  into  the  ground. 


14 

Hoes. — These  shouicl  Ije  made  of  different  patterns 
and  sizes.  Some  broad,  some  narrow  with  tines  on 
the  back,  &c.  Those  with  forks  on  the  back  are  use- 
ful for  loosening  soil  around  plants. 

Brill  Bakes. — These  may  be  made  with  four,  six  or 
ten  wooden  teeth,  placed  from  ten  to  fifteen  inches 
apart.  Draw  the  first  drill  by  a  line,  then  place  the 
outside  tooth  of  the  rake  in  this  clrill,  and  e^o  proceed 
keeping  the  left  hand  tooth  in  the  right  hand  drill, — 
This  does  the  work  neatly  .and  very  rapidly. 

Geirehn  RaJccs. — These  should  1)e  made  of  wrought 
iron,  the  teeth  2  1-2  inches  long  and  2  inches  apart. 
The  number  of  teeth  may  vary  from  ten  to  sixteen. 

Weder  (7r/r;'?'^;v— -This  is  a  barrel  placed  between  two 
handles  similar  to  those  of  a  wheeh^arrow,  with  two 
small  wagon  wheels  in  front,.  With  this  a  ])arrel  of 
water  may  be  carried  to  any  part  of  the  garden  willi 
srreat  ease  and  with  o;reat  economy  of  time. 

Hand  Cidtivedors. — These  should  be  made  of  iron  so 
as  to  expand  from  ten  to  eighteen  inches  wide.  These 
are  very  convenient  for  drawing  between  garden  veg- 
etables, as  they  save  the  labor  of  several  menwdth  hoes. 

Garelen  Enr/incs. — These  are  made  double  and  single 
action  pumps,  double  and  single  brakes,  on  four  wheels 
with  tongue,  and  on  tw^o  wdieels  with  handles  like 
a  barrow.  They  are  extensively  used  in  gardens,  niu^- 
series  &c.,  and  are  sometimes  found  to  afford  very  val- 
uable assistance  in  case  of  fire,  in  a  neighborhood  dis- 
tant from  a  larger  engine,  as  they  throw  water  to  the 
height  of  seventy  or  eighty  feet,  with  considerable 
force. 

Miseellaneous  Tooh. — -Under  this  head  we  place  ma- 
ny tools  very  valuable  in  a  large  garden,  \vl  The 
><eed  Soiver^  Bee  I  and  Line  for  laying  out  beds  and 
walks,  Watering-pots,  Frnning  Shears,  Priminj  Knife^ 
Garden  S//rinr/e,  Fruit  Gatherer^  etc.  d'c. 

Prhparation  of  Soil. — Having  described  the  soil  suit- 
'able  for  a  garden,  the  various  substances  for  enriching 
it,  and  the  implements  to  be  used,  we  now  proceed  io 


speak  of  the  preparation  ueceL^^ary  to  tit  it  tor  the 
priHirietion  ot  ealinary  vegetables.  Here  let  us  add. 
too  much  impoi'tance  cannot  be  attached  to  having  a 
rich,  deep,  fria];)h3  ioani,  resting  upon  a  warm  subsoil^ 
as  upon  this  in  a  great  measiu'e,  depends  the  future 
success  of  the  gardener.  Skill  in  cultivation  cannot 
overcome  all  the  injurious  effects  arising  from  a  poor 
or  cold  soil.  Having' a  suitable  soil,  the, next  thing  of 
.importance  is  io  stir  it  deeply.  Without  mellowness 
fioots  are  not  able  to  penetrate  it.  Mr.  Trull  proved 
that  the  roots  of  the  common  turnip  e;ii:tended  six 
feet,  although  he  couk|  not  trace  them  to  that  extent 
with  his  naked  eve.  Mr,  Downino-  remarks,  *'^I  have 
seen  the  roots  of  strawberries  extend  five  feet  down 
in  a  rich  soil;  and  those  plants  bore  a  crop  of  fruit 
five  times  as  large  and  tw^ice  as  handsome  and  good, 
as  the  common  product  of  a  soil  only  one  foot  deep." 
Another  benefit  of  deep  stirring  is,  it  exposes  the  soil 
to  the  action  of  the  atmosphere.  This,  It  is  known, 
contains  some  of  the  principal  elements  of  vegetable 
growth  which  it  readily  yields  to  a  light  and  porous 
soih  "Such  a  soil  permits  the  immediate  escape  of 
water  after  heavy  rains,  and  yet,  by  its  capillary  at- 
traction furnishes  a  supply  of  moisture  during  a  pro- 
tracted drought.  Pyy  its  friability,  it  is  more  capable 
of  absorbing  heat  during  sunshine,  and, "  thereto i^, 
more  sensible  of  the  early  approaches  of  spring;  and 
jet,  it  radiates  heat  so  rapidly,  that  the  deposit  of  dew- 
in  the  summer  nights  is  greatly  facilitated.  These 
latter  two  properties  are  very  important,  because  the 
warmth  of  the  sun  is  necessary  for  the  roots,  and  be- 
cause the  free  deposit  of  dew  protects  them  from  the 
fatal  consequences  of  continued  dry  weather." 

SiihsoU  Plowinc/, — This  is  undoubtedly  the  best  meth- 
od to  pursue  when  the  ground  is  wanted  for  immedi- 
ate use.  It  loosens  very  thoroughly  the  subsoil,  and 
yet  leaves  the  ti  ue  soil  on  top.  The  objection  to  it, 
is,  that  it  does  not  enrich  the  soil  to  the  depth  re.O[uir« 
^d  to  produce  good  vegetnblos. 


16 

Dmibk  Plmiing. — This,  on  the  whole,  we  consider 
preferable  to  subsoiling,  when  properly  done.  The 
manure  should  be  spread  upon  the  surface  and  turn- 
ed in  with  a  large  plough.  This  should  be  followed 
by  a  smaller  one  in  the  same  furrow  both  moving  the 
ground  from  fourteen  to  sixteen  inches  deep.  ^It  should 
then  be  cross-plowed.  In  this  way  a  portion  of  sub- 
soil is  brought  up  and  incorporated  with  the  surface 
soil  and  manure,  and  is  enriched  and  made  suitable  to 
nourish  plants. 

Tremhing. — lYhere  you  have  a  deep  soil,  this  is  un- 
doubtedly the  best  of  all  preparation.  Across  one  side 
of  the  ground  you  intend  for  the  garden,  you  make 
with  a  spade,  a  trench  two  feet  wide  and  two  feet 
deep.  Shovel  oat  the  bottom  clean,  throwing  the 
earth  away  from  your  future  garden.  You  then  take 
another  piece  beside  the  trench,  tw^o  feet  wide,  and 
put  the  earth  that  this  new  piece  contains  into  your 
former  trench,  the  top  soil  at  the  bottom.  Pursue 
tills  course  until  your  garden  be  trenched.  The  last 
trench  you  will  have  to  till  up  with  the  soil  that  you 
shoveled  out  of  your  first  trench.  Your  garden  soil 
to  the  depth  of  two  feet  you  will  have  completely 
turned  over. 

Baslard  Trenching. — When  you  have  but  a  foot  of 
ffood  soil  on  a  sandv,  ffravellv  or  clave  v  subsoil,  it  will 
not  do  to  pursue  the  former  method.  The  surface 
soil  would  be  so  poor  that  plants  w^ould  never  be  able 
to  throw  out  roots  to  reach  that  which  would  yield 
them  support.  The  method  to  be  pursued  in  such  a 
case  is  this: — Commence  upon  one  side  and  dig  a 
trench  two  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep,  laying  the 
good  soil  in  one  pile,  and  the  poor  in  another.  Side 
of  this,  commence  another  trench  two  feet  wide  and 
throw  the  good  soil  ov€7'  the  first  trench  on  to  the  oth- 
er good  pile.  Spread  manm^e  in  the  first  trench,  and 
then  spade  the  poor  soil  of  the  second  trench  upon 
it,  and  incorporate  it  w^ith  it.  Open  the  third  trench 
and  throw  your  good  soil  upon  the  last  poor  soil  which 


17 

was  thrown  into  the  first  trench.  Pursue  tliis  course 
until  you  have  gone  through  the  bed,  when  you  will 
have  left  on  the  side  where  you  commenced,  the  soil 
and  subsoil  which  you  threw  out  of  the  first  trench 
and  the  good  soil  of  the  second.  This  you  will  be 
obliged  to  convey  by  a  wheelbarrow  or  otherwise,  to 
the  last  two  trenches.  In  this  w^ay,  you  will  have 
your  poor  soil  loosened  and  enriched,  and  the  same 
soil  on  top  that  you  had  when  you  commenced. 

This  thorough  spading  should  be  performed  once  in 
four  or  five  years.  Besides  this  there  will  be  an  an- 
nual spading.  Commence  at  one  side  of  your  ground 
and  open  a  trench  the  width  and  depth  of  your  spade, 
and  fill  it  by  opening  another.  Continue  this  until 
the  ground  is  all  gone  over.  The  work  will  be  facili- 
tated by  digging  in  a  straight  line  and  of  a  uniform 
depth.  All  lumps  should  be  broken  as  you  proceed 
and  the  ground  be  well  pulverized.  Avoid  spading 
immediately  after  a  rain,  as  the  ground  has  a  tenden- 
cy to  bake  if  worked  when  wet.  We  are  aware  there 
is  labor  and  expense  in  preparing  ground  in  this  man- 
ner, but  every  one  should  bear  in  mind  he  is  do- 
ing a  work  that  is  to  last  years,  and  -that  he  will  be 
richly  repaid  for  his  labor  in  the  increased  vigor  and 
beauty  of  his  plants. 

Sowing  and  Propagation  in  general. — Propagation 
of  plants  is  effected  in  a  variety  of  ways  ;  by  seed, 
suckers,  offsets,  layers  and  cuttings.  Most  garden 
vegetables  are  propagated  by  seed;  those  that  are 
not,  will  be  spoken  of  under  the  [^treatment  of  each 
plant. 

Having  prepared  the  ground  by  spading  or  plowing, 
the  next  operation  is  to  top  dress  it.  This  is  done  by 
raking  it  smooth  and  pulverizing  all  the  lumps  of 
earth,  so  that  the  soil  shall  have  an  even  surface. — 
Then  with  a  chain  or  line,  lay  out  your  ground  into 
suitable  plats  for  your  vegetables.  Betw^een  the 
plats  make  a  walk  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet  wide, 
by  treading  the  soil  or  by  throwing  it  evenly  over  the 


i8 

« 

ground,  so  that  the  walk  shall  be  two  or  three  inches 
lower  than  the  surlliee  of  tiie  bed.  Doing  this  work 
neatly  very  muck  improves  the  looks  of  the  ground, 
and  as  it  occupies  but  a  short  time  it  should  never  be 
nei!:lected.  Havino;  dressed  the  irround  take  a  drill 
I'ake  and  mark  it  otF  into  drills  suitable  for  your  seed. 
The  depth  that  seeds  should  be  sown  depends  much 
upon  their  size  and  character.  Seed  as  large  as  peas 
mail  ^^^  planted  as  deep  as  two  or  more  inches  and 
germinate,  but  those  as  small  as  celery  planted  to 
that  depth  would  probably  remain  there  until  their 
vitality  was  destroyed,  before  sufficient  warmth  would 
reach  them  to  cause  them  to  sprout.  Having  scatter- 
ed the  seed  in  the  drills,  the  amount  of  which  we  shall 
speak  of  under  each  article  separately,  gently  press 
the  soil  on  to  it,  that  every  seed  may  be  thomughly 
covered  with  loam,  for  upon  this  depends  its  germin- 
ating. This  work  should  be  done  with  care  and  neat- 
Tiess. 

"Broadcast  sowing  is  deservedly  falling  into  disrepute,  for  with 
a  gardener,  its  only  recommendation  is  that  of  expedition  at  the 
most  hurried  season.  In  reality,  however,  it  causes  an  actual  loss 
of  time.  The  plants  must  be  thinned  oat  and  transplanted  at  a 
period  when  every  ftioment  should  be  spent  in  resisting  the  en- 
croachments of  weeds  and  insects.  There  is  considerable  risk  in 
this  removal  from  the  seed  bed;  the  fibrous  roots  are  broken  and 
injured  so  that  unusual  care  is  necessary  in  their  protection,  until 
they  become  fairly  established.  The  drill  system  is  certainly  much 
inore  tidy  and  convenient.  The  hoe  can  be  used  freely,  while  the 
beneficial  influences  of  light  and  air  are  efTectually  admitted  to  the 
leaves  and  soil.  The  good  oftects  will  be  discovered,  not  only  in 
the  increased  product  and  its  improved  quality,  but  also,  in  the 
better  preparation  of  the  land  for  the  succeeding  crop. 

A  seed  requires  heat,  air,  and  moisture  to  insure  germination. 
In  the  absence  of  either  of  these  three  conditions,  it  may  remain 
dormant  for  centuries.  When  waking  into  life,  moisture  is  absorb- 
>ed,  the  seed  swells,  the  starch  is  converted  into  sugar,  the  germ 
bursts  its  integuments,  and  the  stem  pushes  its  vvay  towards  the 
surface,  while  the  loot  buries  itself  downward  in  search  of  nutri- 
ment. Now,  it  is  surely  an  object  to  hasten  this  process,  for 
thereby  the  crop  will  be  accelerated,  and  the  young  plant  sooner 
placed  beyond  all  danger  of  its  enemies.  The  mere  putting  the 
seed  into  the  ground  is  not  always  sufficient.  With  certain  kinds, 
«t   is  w-ell  known  thntdnys,  and  even  weeks,  will  elapse  before  the 


11) 

plant  is  developed;'  by  which  uine  the  v/eeds  may  Jsave  taken  un- 
disturbeil  possession  of  the  beds.  Various  steps  h:ive  been  pro- 
posed, for  the  purpose  of  hastening  vegetation,  among  which  are 
sohitions  of  saltpetre,  nitrate  of  soda,  muriate  of  ammonia,  sul- 
phate of  ammonia,  guano,  chloride  of  lime,  sulphur,  cV  c.  &.c. — 
Tepid  water  answers  a  very  good  purpose.  'J'he  length  ef  time 
for  each  kind  of  seed  to  remain  in  the  liquor,  varies  and  must  be 
determined,  together  with  many  other  things  of  equal  importance, 
by  experiment.  If  suffered  to  remain  too  long,  putrefaction  will 
commence,  which  either  weakens  or  destroys  the  vitality  of  the 
germ.  We  do  not  think  it  prudent,  as  a  general  ihimr^  to  delay 
sowing  after  the  seed  swells  and  gives  unmistakable  signs  of 
sprouting. — P.  ^.  Schenck,  ■ 

Care  is  necessary  after  sowing  to  ensure  perfect 
plants.  The  ground  may  be  so  dry  as  to  abstract  the 
moisture  from  the  sprouted  seed  and  thereby  destroy 
it,  or  it  may  be  so  wet  and  cold  as  to  cause  it  to  de- 
cay.    These  two  extremes  should  be  avoided. 

The  folio  win  o;  was  furnished  us  bv  a  distin2:uished 
New  Hampshire  Gardener : 

^^To  start  Seeds  quick. — Pulverize  the  bed  where  you 
sow,  make  it  level  with  a  board,  put  on  the  seed  as 
even  as  possible  and  sift  on  just  enougli  dirt  to  cover 
it ;  spread  a  rug  or  old  cotton  bag  over  the  bed  and 
water  with  boiling  water  from  a  waterpot.  Take  off 
the  rug  at  night  as  soon  as  the  sprouts  appear  which 
will  sometimes  be  in  forty-eight  hours  if  the  rug  is' 
well  wet." 

Saving  Seeds. — Every  beginner  is  obliged  to  depend 
upon  his  neighbors,  or  some  Seedman,  for  his  seed. 
This  is  a  point  in  regard  to  which,  he  ought  to  use 
great  caution,  as  he  is  liable  to  be  deceived  as  to  the 
sort,  its  gemdnencss  and  soundness.  To  avoid  disappoint- 
ment, purchase  of  a  Seedman  of  known  probity.  He 
may,  at  times,  be  deceived,  for  he  cannot  raise  all  of 
his  seed,  but  by  buying  of  such  a  one,  your  chance  is 
greater  of  getting  seed  which  is  good.  After  you 
have  got  plants  which  are  true  to  their  kind,  you 
should  endeavor  to  save  your  own  seed.  There  are 
some  few  kinds,  which  you  will  have  to  depend  upon 
the  Seedman  for,  as  they  are  seldom  raised  in  this 
country.     In  raising  seed,  remove  those  of  the  same 


20 

specie?  as  far  apart  as  possible,  for  it  is  a  well  attested 
fact,  that  if  two  different  varieties  of  a  vegetable  are 
permitted  to  blossom  at  the  same  time,  within  a  short 
distance  of  each  other,  they  intermix,  and  produce  a 
hybrid  partaking  of  the  character  of  both  parents. — 
The  fertilizing  dust  of  the  stamens  in  the  flowers  of 
one  plant,  is  conveyed  by  the  wind  or  insects  to  the 
pistils  in  the  flowers  of  the  other.  The  distinctive 
features  of  each  are  thereby  lost,  while  the  new  vari- 
ety may  not  possess  a  single  point  to  make  it  worthy 
of  cultivation.  For  instance,  you  set  out  an  early 
Dwarf  and  a  Drum-head  cabbage  side  by  side  for  their 
seed.  One  you  value  for  its  extreme  earliness,  the 
other  for  its  lateness  and  its  winter  keeping  quality. 
Having  raised  a  fine  lot  of  seed,  you  plant  it  the  en- 
suing year,  but  instead  of  Early  Dwarf,  you  have  a  la- 
ter cabbage  of  a  coarse  quality,  partaking  perhaps, 
more  of  the  character  of  the  Early  Dwarf  than  any 
thing  else,  but  yet  not  the  true  kind  ;  and  instead  of 
the  Drum-head,  you  have  a  cabbage  that  ripens  earli- 
er and  does  not  keep  so  well  as  that  which  is  true  to 
its  kind,  so  that  you  are  disappointed  in  both. 

This  fact  is  of  great  importance  to  the  gardener, 
and  should  be  strictly  observed.  Those  who  have  but 
a  small  piece  of  ground,  will  not  be  able  to  raise  a 
large  variety  of  seed  the  same  year,  nor  is  it  necessa- 
ry. Many  kinds  of  seed  keep  a  number  of  years,  so 
that  the  gardener  can  raise  of  one  variety  of  a  genus, 
sufficient  to  last  as  long  as  the  seed  will  keep  and  re- 
tain its  vitality.  For  instance,  he  can  raise  this  year 
at  one  side  of  his  garden,  his  Cauliflower  seed ;  at  the 
other  his  Savoy  Cabbage  seed.  Next  year,  he  may  in 
the  same  manner,  raise  his  Sugarloaf  and  Battersea 
Cabbage  seed,  and  in  this  way  go  through  the  whole 
Brassica  tribe.  So  also  of  the  Cuciimis  or  Gou7^d  tribe. 
But  it  is  better  to  raise  only  one  kind  where  there  is 
danger  of  hybridizing,  and  depend  upon  some  Seed- 
man  of  kuown  honor  for  your  others. 

*^0f  such  varieties  as  you  select  for  seeding,  choose 


21 

ilie  best  plants  only, — tlio.'se  which  are  hedth y,  and 
ha\'e  tlien*  peculiar  characteristics  most  perfectly  de- 
veloped. To  insure  earliness,  only  the  most  forward 
})lants  should  be  taken."  Plant  them  out  in  rich  soil, 
and  if  the  weather  becomes  very  dry,  a  moderate  wat- 
ering should  be  given.  When  the  seed  stocks  have 
become  long  and  heavy,  they  should  be  tied  to  a  stake 
with  bass  matting,  to  stay  them  and  preserve  them 
during  severe  vfinds.  As  the  seed  ripens  gather  with- 
out unnecessary  delay,  otherv/ise  the  seed  will  be  scat- 
tered upon  the  ground.  Select  only  the  finest  look- 
ing pods.  In  this  way  your  varieties  may  be  improv- 
ed. Having  perfectly  dried  them  in  some  shady  place, 
thresh  out  the  seed  and  winnow  the  chaff  and  poor  or 
defective  seed  away,  then  pack  in  paper  bags  and  put 
them  in  some  dry  and  cool  place  to  remain  until  wan- 
ted. Each  bag  should  be  labeled  with  the  name  and 
when  raised^  thus:  "Early  American  Cauliflower,  1852." 

The  vitality  of  ^eeci  with  good  care  can  be  depended 
upon  for  the  following  periods: — 

Carrots,  Parsnips,  Rhubarb  and  other  thin  scaly 
seeds,— for  one  year. 

Balm,  Basil,  Beans,  Cress,  Lavender,  Leeks,  Qmons, 
Peppers,  Peas,  Savory,  Sage,  Salsify,  Tomato,  Thyme, 
and  small  herb  seed, — for  two  years. 

Asparagus,  Egg-plant,  Indian  Corn,  Lettuce,  Mar- 
joram, Mustard,  Parsley,  and  Spinach,  ^ovthree.year$* 

Broccoli,  Brussels  Sprouts,  Cabbage,  Cauliflower, 
Radish,  Sea-Kale,  and  Turnip,  {ov  four  years. 

Beet,  Celery,  Cuciunber,  Melon,  Pumpkin,  and 
Squash,  fvomfive  to  ten  years. 

Early  Plants. — There  are  several  vegetables,  which, 
owing  to  the  shortness  of  our  Spring  and  Summer, 
cannot  be  successfully  raised  if  planted  in  the  open 
ground.  It  is  desirable,  therefore,  to  have  early 
plants.  A  cheap  way  to  obtain  them,  is,  to  plant  seed 
in  a  flower-pot  and  set  them  in  a  warm  kitchen  .win- 
dow, where  they  will  have  the  benefit  of  the  sun.— 
By  giving  the  plants  suflicient  light  and  fresh  air,  you 


'T2 

may  forwaid  your  cmps  irom  two  to  four  weeks.  Op- 
erations of  this  kind,  of  necessity  must  be  of  a  limit- 
ed character. 

Hd  Bed^.—  [:nc[ev  the  head  of  '^Took  md  Tool Ilovse;' 
i\^e  have  spoken  of  the  frame  and  sash  necessary  for 
the  covering  of  a  Hot  Bed.  In  this  article  we  pur- 
pose to  speak  of  the  making  of  the  bed,  its  materials, 
and  its  after  management.  There  are  several  sub- 
stances emploj^ed  to  produce  artificial  heat,  among 
which,  are,  grass,  Tanner's  spent  bark,  leaves,  and 
green  manure.  Unfermented  horse  manure  is  un- 
doubtedly the  best  article  in  use.  Heat  is  generatedj 
hy  its  fermentation.  To  produce  this,  air  and  moist- 
ure are  necessary.  Throw  the  manure  into  a  conical 
shaped  pile,  and  if  the  weather  is  cold  or  stormy,  cov- 
er it  with  Utter.  After  it  has  lain  in  this  condition 
tliree  or  four  days,  it  should  be  shaken  over  and  piled 
again,  and  if  any  part  should  appear  dry,  it  should  be 
watered.  Pursue  this  course  until  the  larger  part  of 
the  straw  is  browned.  The  object  is  to  get  rid  of  the 
violent  heat  and  vapor  that  arises.  Care  should  be 
taken  that  this  process  is  not  carried  too  far,  as  there 
would  not  be  sutHcient  heat  left  to  force  the  plants 
and  give  them  a  good,  healthy  appearance.  Having- 
prei>ared  your  manure,  mark  the  size  of  your  frame 
upon  the  grounrl,  and  then  with  a  fork  spread  the  ma- 
nure so  that  it  shall  project  six  inches  beyond  each 
side  of  the  frame.     Pursue  this  method,  beating  each 

'layer  with  the  spade,  until  the  pile  is  from  two  to  four 
feet  high  according  to  the  season  of  the  year,  and  the 
plants  to  be  foiled,      if  the  weather  is  dry  and  warm, 

t  it  will  require  less  thnn  if  it  is  wet  and  cold.     If  the 

'•  heat  becomes  exhausted,  it  may  be  restored  in  a  mea- 
wu^e,  by  a  "linmg".  First,  cut  the  manure  even  with 
the  frame  and  remove  it;  make  some  holes  through 
the  bed,  and  then  with  manure  that  is  just  beginning 
t6  heat,  fill  these  places  vand  also  those  caused  by  the 

•removal  of  the- manure  upon  the  outside  of  the  frame. 


28 

In  tills  way,  slioukl  tlie   weather   prove  unfavorable// 
you  can  continue  the  lieat  any  length  of  time. 

Having  prepared  your  bed,  put  three  or  four  inch- 
es  of  good  rich  loam  or  decayed  turf  upon  it,  and  place 
the  frame  and  sash  over  it.  In  three  or  four  days  the'' 
loam  will  be  sufliciently  warm  to  receive  the  seed.— 
The  plants  of  most  seed  will  very  soon  appear  in  hot 
beds  and  care  must  be  used  in  order  that  they  may 
liave  sufficient  light  and  air,  otherwise  the  plants  will 
draw  up  long  and  weakly,  and  will  not  be  worth  trans- 
planting. A  stocky,  green  plant  is  the  kind  to  be  de- 
sired ;  and  the  only  way  to  produce  it,  is  by  giving 
an  abundance  of  air.  The  upper  side  of  the  sash 
should  be  raised  sufficiently  to  let  the  vapors  arising 
from  the  manure,  escape..  The  sash  may  be  shoved 
up  or  down  fi*om  one  to  four  inches,  according  to  the 
weather.  If  it  be  mild  and  warm,  they  should  be  ta- 
ken off  during  the  day,  that  the  plants  may  become 
seasoned  to  the  atmosphere  so  they  "will  bear  trans- 
planting. By  giving  an  abundance  of  air,  there  is  no 
trouble  in  raising  good  plants,  but  care  should  be  ta- 
ken that  there  are  no  sudden  changes  in  the  atmos- 
phere of  the  bed,  as  that  tends  to  stunt  the  growth  x)f 
the  plants. 

When  the  plants  are  an  inch  high,  it  is  a 'good  plan 
to  transfer  them  to  small  earthen  pots  that  have  a 
hole  in  the  bottom.  Put  some  earthern  shreds  in  it 
that  the  pot  may  be  well  drained,  and  also,  that  the 
ball  of  earth  may  be  easiH^  pushed  from  the  pot  with- 
out disturbing  the  roots  of  the  plant  wdien  it  is  desi- 
rable to  transplant  them  to  the  open  ground.  The 
pots  should  be  plunged  to  their  rims  m  the  loam  of 
the  hot  bed.  Some  make  botes  in  tiie  -giK)mid  so  as 
to  have  the  loam  when  the  bed  is  finished  even  with 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  but  these  beds  are  liable  to 
be  effected  by  damp  and  inj  iirious  vapors,  so  that  the 
plan  of  building  above  ground  is  to  be  preferred.  If  any 
•oae   chooses,  he  can  make  a  })ox  aroiuid  tiie  manuj-e 


24 

which  answers  a  better  puipo.^e  than  to  place  the  ma- 
nure hi  the  ground. 

Transplanting. — Most  gairdeners  recommend  that 
transplanting  be  done  just  before  a  rain.  It  should 
never  be  done  while  the  ground  is  wet,  as  it  causes  it- 
to  bake  down  and  .prevents  the  plants  growing,  till 
the  ground  is  stirred  when  it  is  dr/j,  J\Ir.  Cobbett  rec- 
ommends that  transplanting  be  done  in  warm,  dry 
weather,  and  says,  ^'Therc  is  a  fermentation  that  takes 
place,  immediatel}'  after  niovmg,  and  a  dew  arises, 
which  did  not  arise  before.  These  greatly  exceed,  in 
power  of  causing  the  plant  to  siriJce^  anything  to  be 
obtained  by  rain  on  the  plants  at  the  tune  of  plant- 
ing, or  by  planting  in  wet  earth/'  We  have  trans- 
plaiited  several  hundred  strawberry  plants  in  one  of 
the  dry  est  and  hottest  times  in  August  without  the 
loss  of  a  single  plant.  We  stirred  the  earth  deeply 
with  a  spade,  and  with  a  trowel,  moved- the  plants  from 
their  original  places  to  the  trench.  ^lere  we  pressed 
the  mellow  loam  about  the  roots,  and  then  with  a  pair 
of  shears  removed  all  the  leaves  that  had  expanded, 
leaving  only  the  eye  of  the  plant  to  produce  .  new 
leaves.  This  last  operation  v^e  regard  as  very  essen- 
tial. There  is  a  constant  evaporation  of  the  juices  of 
the  plant  through  the  pores  of  the  leaves,  and  if  this 
takes  place  before  the  fibrous  roots  have  taken  hold 
of  the  soil,  the  strength  of  x}\q  plant  is  exhausted  and 
it  dies  or  lingers  out,  at  best,  a  sickly  existence.  Un- 
der the  above  treatment  the  new  leaves  quickly  e:ji- 
pand  giving  healthy  and  vigorous  plants. 

We  urge  upon  gardeners,  the  necessity  of  stirring 
the  ground  just  before  transplanting,  and  of  pressing 
the  soil  upon  the  roots  even  to  the  ends,  other^yise 
the  roots  exposed  to  the  air  under  ground  soon  moidd 
and  decay.  Tlie  trowel  should  be  used  and  a  small 
l)all  of  earth  be  taken  up  when  possible.  If  the  plants 
are  simply  drawn  out  of  the  ground,  they  should  be 
dipped  in  a  semi-fluid  mass  of  covr-dung  and  water, 
?iud  be  inserted  in  a  liole  made  bv  n  dibble,  and  then 


25 

tho  c]i])l)lo  prosf=^(3tl  flown  nil  inoli  from  the  side  of  tlio 
hole  (bat  nil  of  tlie  roots  shall  come  in  contact  with 
the  soil.  Should  the  weatlicr  be  very  warm  nnd  dry 
it  may  be  necessary  to  protect  the  plants  Avith  vine 
shields  durmg  the  hottest  part  of  the  first  two  or  three 
days,  and  give  them  a  watering  with  tepid  water  just 
before  snndown. 

Rotation  of  Crops. — There  are  a  few  vegetables  that 
are  produced  in  perfection  upon  the  same  soil  year 
after  year,  but  they  are  exceptions  to  the  general  rute. 
The  onion  tril^e  is  an  instance  of  this.  Most  plants, 
how^ever,  require  a  change  of  soil  to  prevent  their  de- 
generating and  becoming  liable  to  the  attack  of  insects 
and  various  diseases.  ^'When  one  particular  element 
of  aveo^etable  is  removed  from  the  soil,  the  ve2:etable 
cannot  again  be  raised  there,  nntil  that  element  be  re- 
stored. It  is,  therefore,  advisable  to  alternate  the  crops, 
by  wdiich  means  the  land  will  have  an  opportiuiity  to 
regain  its  original  strength  and  fertilit}^  If  old  pastures* 
were  to  be  attentively  observed,  it  would  be  found 
that  the  grasses  giadupJly  change  from  season  to.  sea- 
son; and  in  w^oodiand,  it  would  be  discovered,  that  an 
entirely  different  kind  of  tree  takes  the  place  of  such 
as  have  decayed,  or  have  been  cut  down." 

Yegetables,  therefore,  of  the  same  species  should 
not  follow  each  other,  but  return-  at  as  distant  inter- 
vals as  the  case  wdll  allows  "Tuberous  or  tap  roots 
should  be  succeeded  b}^  those  of  a  fibrous  character; 
perennials  by  annuals,  and  plants  of  a  dry,  solid  text- 
ure, or  those  left  for  seed,  by  such  as  are  succulent 
and  juicy." 

,  If  every  gardener  should  pursue  this  course,  thor- 
oughly spading  and  manuring  his  grounds,  we  should 
hear  less  of  varieties  degenerating. 


20 

BESTRUCTlOiN  OF  VERMIN. 

"A  feeble  race!  yet  oft 
Tiie  sacred   sons  of  vengeance;  on  whose  course 
Corrosive  Famine  wails,  and  kills  the  year." 

"Nothing  is  more  vexatious  and  discouraging  for  the  gardener, 
than  to  see  the  objecs  of  his  care  actually  swept  away  by  vermin 
of  all  kinds  and  sizes,  -of  whose  habits  he  is  wholly  ignorant, — 
•unless  their  paitiality  for  tender  vegetables  be  excepted.  He 
may  have  labored  diligently  for  weeks  perhaps  months;  yet  in  a 
vsingle  night,  his  choicest  plants  will  be  destroyed.  Of  the  whole 
vegetable  kingdom,  there  is  scarce  a  useful  member  which  is  not 
liable  to  these  attacks  at  different  stages  of  its  growth.  Some 
vermin  prey  upon  the  root,  others  choose  the  stem  and  branches, 
^  third  class  prefer  the  leaves,  a  fourth  select  the  flowers,  while 
a  fifth  reject  everything  but  the  fruit  or  seed.  For  example;  if 
the  seed  of  the  common  turnip  is  so  fortunate  as  to  escape  a  mi- 
•nu't-e  weevil,  another  enemy  awaits  the  unfolding  of  the  firsrt 
leaves;  another  buries  itself  in  the  bulb  or  rootlets,  so  that  they 
•become  diseased,  and  covered  with  unseemly  excresences;  and 
the  mature  foliage  falls  the  prey  of  caterpillars.  It  is,  therefore, 
the  duty  of  the  gardener  to  study  the  character  and  habits  of  these 
•depredators,  so  as  to  guard  against  their  attacks.  The  reader 
who  may  desire  a  thorough  acquaintance  with  the  subject,  must 
refer  to  works  of  greater  pretensions  than  this  volume.  We 
have  room  for  only  a  few  practical  hints. 

An  ounce  of  prevention  is  said  to  be  worth  a  pound  of  cure  and 
thestudent  will  naturally  fiist  inquire  for  the  best  inc.des  of  pro- 
tecting his  plants.  This  will  in  a  measure  be  secured  by  high 
tiulture, — having  the  ground  rich,  sowing  healthy  seed,  and  has- 
tening the  maturity  of  the  crop.  As  the  young  stems  and  leaves 
are  sweetest,  so  are  they  most  liable  to  injury;  and  everything 
that  accelerates  their  grovv^tli,  adds  to  their  security.  It  is  the 
policy  of  some  cultivators  to  turn  over  the  soil  late  in  autumn,  in 
order  that  the  grubs  and  insects  which  have  taken  up  their  winter 
quarters  may  be  exposed  to  the  action  of  frost.  We  are  acquain- 
ted with  many  gardens  which  have  tlius  been  almost  entirely  rid 
of  these  pests.  The  application  of  salt  at  the  rate  of  two  or 
'three  bushels  per  acre,  in  spring,  or  the  occasional  use  of  strong 
brine,  is  highly  recommended;  but,  salt  is  a  very  powerful  agent, 
and  in  every  form  must  be  applied  with  caution,  lest  vegetation 
should  also  be  injured.  Rolling  or  pressing  the  surface  of  the 
ground  compactly,  after  sowing,  is  an  excellent  plan,  as  the  flies 
are  thereby  deprived  of  hiding  places  around  the  little  lumps  of 
•dirt. 

Reproduction  should  be  prevented  as  much  as  possible.  W^hen 
crushing  a  grub  under  foot,  or  stifling  a  beetle,  the  gardener  less- 
lens  the  number  of  his  enemies  by  millions  in  embryo.  The 
aphides,  or  plant  lice,  multiply  with   astonishing  rapidity,    and   s. 


27 

single  butterlTy  has  been  estimated  to  produce  thirty  milliorid  of 
descendants  at  the  third  generution!  TIk;  butf  cii\y,  which  is  the 
parent  of  destructive  caterpillars,  will  deposif  iLs  e;^rga  upon  pie- 
ces of  woolen  cloth  laid  upon  currant  bushoi  or  around  cabban^e 
plants.  It  is  even  good  policy  to  einploy  litUe  boys  and  girls  iiv 
this  work,  giving  thenn  a  bounty  on  every  worm,  chrysalis,  moth 
or  nest  of  eggs,  which  they  may  discover.  Children  have  \eiy 
sharp  eyes  when  their  industry  is  stijiiulated  by  hopes  of  a  pecu- 
niary reward.  Large  gardens  have  thus  been  kept  ^ree  from  ver- 
min at  the  annual  cost  of  a  few  shillings.  Bonfires  of  shavings  or 
brush,  just  after  twilight  in  the  evening,  will  attract  and  destroy 
immense  numbers  of  flying  beetles. 

The  next  inquiry  will  be,  what  is  to  be  done  after  the  vermin,, 
in  spite  of  all  the  above  precautions,  have  actually  made  their 
appearance.  The  war  against  them  must  be  vigorously  proseca- 
ted.  The  most  certain,  and  therefore  the  best  mode  of  attack,  is 
by  hand-picking;  but,  the  difficulty  of  capturing  the  minute  and 
most  agile  insects  by  the  fingers,  will  prevent  its  general  adop- 
tion. However  repulsive  may  be  its  personal  appearance,  the 
common  toad  is  a  very  valuable  assistant  in  this  work.  The  wri- 
ter who  termed  it  "the  most  deformed  and  hideous  of  all  animals, "^ 
could  scarcely  have  known  its  use  in  the  vegetable  garden.  Its 
eye  is  active,  and  its  long,  viscid  tongue  moves  so  rapidly,  that  it 
will  destroy  twenty  or  more  wood-lice  in  two  or  three  minutes. — 
It  lives  almost  entirely  upon  small  worms  and  insects,  and  in  a 
very  unostentatious  and  quiet  manner  relieves  the  cultivator  of 
many  of  his  most  troublesome  enemies. 

But,  still  other  plans  are  required.  These  are  numeroas;  such 
as  dusting  the  plants,  when  covered  with  moisture,  with  soot,  ash- 
es, charcoal,  sulphur,  road-dust,  powdered  hen-dung,  air  slacked 
lime,  etc.;  or  watering  them  and  the  ground  with  soap-suds,  so- 
lutions of  saltpetre,  guano,  hen-dung  and  whale  oil  soap,*  decoc- 
tions of  tobacco  and  elder,  etc.;  or  fumigating  them  with  sulphur 
and  tobacco.  Soap-suds  from  the  wash-room  is  excellent  for  this 
purpose,  and  it  likewise  proves  an  excellent  fertilizer.  Whale 
oil  soap  is  very  cheap  and  efficient;  care  must  be  taken,  howev- 
er, not  to  make  the  solution  too  strong,  lest  it  injure  the  plants. — 
Of  soap  of  an  average  quality,  one  pound  may  be  put  to  seven 
gallons  of  water;  but,  as  its  strength  varies  much,  the  gardener 
should  determine  the  proportions  by  experiment. 

We  have  long  used  a  solution  of  hen-dung  with  success,  and 
we  recommend  it  because  it  is  always  easily  obtained.  We  have 
a  tub  standing  in  a  convenient  part  of  the  garden,  and,  at  the 
time  when  the  insects  are  expected,  put  in  the  bottom   about  one 

"*  To  make\]Vlmlc  OIL  Soa;?.— Taka  eighteen  pounds  of  potash  and  'thirty 
pounds  of  foot  oil,  and  mix  them  together  in  a  barrel-  Every  other  day  add 
twelve  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  the  whole  for  a  few  minutes  every'day, 
until  the  barrel  be  full,  when  the  mixture  will  be  fit  for  use. 


28 

bushel  of  iien-dung,  upon  wl'ich  wt;  poui'  several  paikful  of  boil- 
ing water.  When  the  niixture  has  become  semi-tiuid,  by  fre- 
quent stirring,  we  fill  the  tub  up  with. water.  Alter  reinainiisfr 
twelve' hours  lonirer,  the  liquid  sliould  be  of  a  dark  green  color, 
and  somewhat  ofiensive  to  the  nostrils,  as  upon  that  particular  de- 
pends its  t'lficacy.  It  may  then  be  cauiiou5>ly  applied  upon  njelon' 
and  cabbage  hills,  and,  in  fact,  every  place  liable  to  the  attacks 
of  insects. 

We  also  make  use  of  the  vine-shield,  (Fig.  2,)  which  not  only 
protects  the  phut,  but  greatly  accelerates  its  growth.      Could  the 
scratching' propensities  of  poultry  be    restrained,  tiieir  assistance 
would  be  of  no  little  value.      Broods  of  young   chickens   will  ,do 
much  good, — the  hens  being  conrined,  and  the  chicks  suflered  to 
roam  over  the  beds;   as  soon,   however,    as  their  claw.s   become 
-  troublesome,  a  new  brood   should    take   their   place.      Whatever 
-jmode  may,  be  adopted,  much  depends  upon  the  time  wl.en   opera- 
itions  are  commenced.     The  moment  the  enemy  appears,   the  jjig- 
jjal  or  a  general  onslaught  should  be  given.     By  such  piompt  ac- 
tion only,  may  the  cultivator  have  cause  to    expect    u  crop." — P. 
%fi.  Schcnck. 

VEGETABLES. 

^'Artichoke,  (Jerusalem.)  Helianihus  Tuherosus. — -Early  in 
the  spring  (last  of  April, )is  the  proper  time  for  planting  the  Jeru- 
salem Artichoke,  and,  being  of  a  very  hardy  nature,  it  will  thrive 
in  any  situation,  and  even  in  a  soil  of  an  ordinary  kind.  It  is  not 
easily  eradicated  when  once  introduced  into  a  garden.  It  is  prop- 
agated in  the  same  manner  as  the  potato,  by  planting  the  .bulb  or 
tuber  in  rows  about  a  yard  asunder,  and  nine  or  ten  inches  distant 
from  each  other  in  the  row,  covering  thein  with  three  inches  depth 
of  earth.  The  ground  should  be  well  manured  for  them,  and  no 
further,  trouble  is  required,  except  to  keep  them  clear  from  weeds, 
land  give  a  light  digging  between  the  rows." — Kilc/i.  Sf  Fruit  Gar. 

,  I^  an  agricultural  point  of  view,  this  plant  deserves' a 
vtigh  position.  Its  hardiness  and  great  productive- 
ness,(for  it  is  said  that  it  sometimes  produces  more  than 
two  thousand  bushels  per  acre,)  should  cause  it  to  be 
more' extensively  cultivated.  It  is  valuable  for  cattle, 
sheep  and  hogs,  and  also  for  table  purposes. 

To. Fickle. — Take  those  only  which  are  fair,  and 
poiir.  upon  them  hot  vinegar  which  has  been  previ- 
ously spiced,  and  let  it  stand  till  cold.  Kepeat  the 
operation  two  or  three  times. 

Asparagus.  Asparagus  afficinalls. — This  is  onp  of  the 
most  valuable  garden  ^  .^  tables,  rc^iembling  in  flavor 


2Q 

green  peas  and  coming  as  it  does  when  there  are  go 
few  vegetables  to  be  had,  it  should  be  found  in  every 
garden.  It  is  propagated  by  seed  and  by  separating 
old  roots.  The  former  way  is  preferable  though  it 
will  be  longer  before  it  is  fit  for  use  since  the  plants 
require  to  be  three  or  four  years  old  before  they  will 
do  to  crop. 

**The  seed — oua  oz.  being  sufficient  for  900  or  1000  plants, — 
id  to  be  thinly  sown,  in  drills  sixteen  inches  apart,  early  in  the 
spring — say  from  about  the  middle  of  April  to  the  beginning  of 
May,  due  regard  beiiig  had  to  the  forwardness  of  the  season. — 
Cover  the  seed  about  an  inch  and  a  half  deep.  If  the  weather 
continue  dry,  the  ground  ought  to  be  covered  with  straw  or  brush 
during  the  middle  of  the  day,  until  germination  takes  place.  Or, 
water  may  be  frequently  applied  in  small  quantities,  until  the  same 
end  is  accomplished.  When  the  young  plants  are  a  few  inches 
high,  they  must  be  thinned  out  to  distances  of  six  or  eight  inches 
in  the  drill.  The  surface  should  be  kept  open  and  free  from  weeds. 
By  the  middle  or  latter  part  af  November,  remove  the  withered 
stalks,  by  cutting  them  down  close  to  the  ground,  and  then  cover 
the  bed  with  two  inches  of  rotten  dung,  overlaid  by  coarse  stable 
litter.  This  protection  not  only  saves  the  roots  from  being  injur- 
ed by  the  frv-^.st,  but  secures  a  vigorous  growth  during  the  next 
summer." — Sclie7ick's   Gardener's   Text-Book. 

*'In  the  making  of  AspTnigus  beds,  the  chief  point  to  be  con- 
sidered is  to  make  choice  of  a  proper  soil;  choose  the  best  which 
the  garden  atfords;  it  must  not  be  wet,  nor  too  strong,  nor  stub- 
born, but  such  as  is  moderately  light  and  pliable,  so  that  it  will 
readily  fall  to  pieces  in  digging  or  raking,  and  in  a  situation  that 
enjoys  the  full  sun.  The  ground  intended  for  Asparagus  beds 
should  have  a  large  supply  of  rotten  or  other  good  dung,  laid  sev- 
eral inches  thick;  it  should  then  be  regularly  trenched  two  or 
three  feet,  and  the  dung  buried  equally  in  each  trench  as  the 
progress  goes  on.  The  ground  being  made  level,  it  should  be  di- 
vided into  beds,  four  feet  and  a  half  wide,  with  paths  two  feet 
wide  between  bed  and  bed.  Four  rows  of  Asparagus  should  be 
planted  in  each  bed,  and  ten  or  twelve  inches  distance  to  be  al- 
lowed between  plant  and  plant  in  the  row,  letting  the  outside  rows 
of  each  bed  be  nine  inches  from  the  edge;  or  tiSey  may  be  plant- 
ed only  in  single  rows,  tw(3  feet  and  a  half  apart,  or  in  narrow 
beds  containing  two  rows  of  roots  only.  It  is  of  very  great  im- 
portance for  ensuring  success  in  the  planting  of  Asparagus  to  lift 
the  roots  carefully,  and  to  expose  them  to  the  air  as  short  a  time 
as  possible.  No  plant  feels  an  injury  in  the  root  more  keenly 
than  Asparagus,  and,  from  the  b(;ittlenes3  of  the  roots  when  they 
are  once  broken,  they  do  not  readily  shoot  again."  Comp.  Gard. 


30 

"At  the  approach  of  winter,  v.hen  their  natur;.'l  season  of 
growth  is  over,  the  tops  vviH  turn  white,  and  they  tnay  then  be  cut 
down  close  to  the  ground.  Cure  should  be  observed  not  to  do 
this  while  they  are  at  all  green,  bec;njse  in  that  case  the  roots  are 
likely  to  sprout  again.  The  dead  .stalks,  and  all  weeds — if  any 
there  be  found,  can  either  be  gathered  into  a  pile  and  burned,  or 
else  be  taken  to  the  compost  heap  or  pig  pen,  to  be  subsequently 
returned  to  the  ground  in  the  sliape  of  manure,  "^rhe  bed  ought 
now  to  receive  a  thin  top-dressing  of  good,  rotten  dung,  about 
three  inches  thick,  together  with  a  covering  of  leaves,  liller,  or 
even  a  little  rich  soil.  This  is  the  only  way  to  ensure  a  healthy 
growth  of  the  roots  in  tho  coming  year. 

In  March  or  April  of  the  following  spring,  as  soon  as  the  frost 
leaves  the  ground,  and  before  the  buds  are  expected  to  start,  re- 
move the  covering,  and  dig  the  surface  of  the  bed  with  the  fork, 
in  order  to  mix  the  old  manure  Vi'ith  the  soil,  as  well  as  to  admit 
heat  and  air  to  the  roots.  The  tines  of  the  fork  ought  not  to  be 
inserted  to  a  greater  depth  than  three  or  four  inches,  lest  the 
crowns  of  the  roots  be  injured.  This  havmg  been  properly  done^ 
the  next  thing  is  to  rake  off  the  heavy  clods  and  stones  into  the 
alleys.  Owing,  to  its  marine  character,  Ihe  asparagus  plant  re- 
ceives decided  benefit  from  frequent  and  liberal  applications  of 
common  salt.  It  is  best  applied  at  this  season  of  the  year,  .spread 
thinly  upon  the  surface  of  the  bed,  and  then  raked  under.  A 
smaller  quantity  may  be  given  some  two  or  three  limes  afterwards 
during  the  summer.  Many  gardeners  recommend  the  ure  of  brine 
of  the  strength  of  sea-water,  to  be  sprinkled  upon  the  ground  ev- 
ery fortnight  or  three  weeks  through  the  growing  season.  There 
is  but  little  danger  of  making  the  ground  too  rich;  some  caution 
must  be  observed,  however,  in  the  opplication  of  salt,  as  by  its 
injudicious  use  several  fine  plant.itionsj  are  snid  to  have  been  de- 
stroyed. In  cur  own  garden,  all  we  dare  do,  is  to  sprinkle  on 
just  enough  to  n.ake  the  ground  look  white,  as  though  a  light 
snow  haa  fallen. 

This  course  of  management  for  the  spring  and  winter  dress- 
ings, must  be  pursued  annually  so  long  as  the  bed  remains.  In 
summer,  the  only  culture  necessary  is  to  keep  the  soil  in  good 
tilth.  In  dry  seasons,  a  regular  application  of  water  at  stated  in- 
tervals will  prove  of  decided  benefit,  securing  a  vigorous  and  un- 
interrupted growth.  No  portion  of  the  crop  ought  to  be  gathered 
previous  to  the  fourth  season  after  the  sowing  of  the  seed." 

*'To  cook. — In  the  first  place,  cut  oft'  the  tough,  white  part  of 
the  stalks,  in  such  manner  that  they  may  be  of  nearly  equal 
length.  Put  them  into  small  bundles,  and  boil  them  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  minutes  according  to  their  age.  The  addition  of  a 
quarter-teaspoonful  of  salaratus  to  three  quarts  of  the  water,  will 
preserve  the  fresh,  green  color  of  the  asparagus.  A  little  salt 
should  be  put  in  the  stew  pan.     Toast  a  large  slice  of  bread,  and 


31 

lay  it  in  the  bottom  o{  a  vegetable  dish.  Then  moisten  the  toast 
with  a  little  water  from  the  slew  pan,  and  butter  it.  When  the 
asparagus  is  taken  up  and  drained,  it  is  to  be  laid  on  tise  toast, 
and  the  strings  removed.  Serve  with  melted  butter,  and  salt  to 
the  taste." — Gardener^s  Text-Book. 

Balm.  31elissa  Officinalis. — Balm  is  a  liarcly  peren- 
nial, having  a  very  fragrant  odor.  "It  may  be  prop- 
agated by  seed,  by  offsets  of  the  roots  and  by  slips  of 
the  young  shoots.  The  first  two  modes  can  be  prac- 
ticed either  in  Spring  or  Autumn,  but  slips  are  gener- 
ally found  to  succeed  best  when  they  have  been  set 
out  in  the  latter  part  of  spring."  It  grows  best  on  a 
poor  friable  soil  and  needs  no  manure.  It  is  used  as 
a  trimming  for  meats  and  for  medicinal  purposes, — 
The  Lemon  is  usualty  preferred. 

Bean.  Viciafahd. — There  are  two  distinct  species 
of  the  Bean,  the  viciafahaov  English  bean  and  j'V^a^e- 
olus  or  kidney  bean.  These  species  require  entirely 
difibrent  treatment.  The  English,  the  most  common 
vaiieties  of  which,  are,  the  Early  Mazagan^  Lcikj  Pcd, 
Broad  Windsor  and  Green  Nonpar cil,  are  very  hardy, 
and  ma}^  be  sown  very  early  as  spring  frosts  do  not 
injure  them;  they  also  produce  more  certain  crops 
when  soAvn  early.  They  succeed  well  by  being  sov/n 
in  the  fall.  They  require  a  stiff  moist  loam  with  a 
considerable  proportion  of  clay.  Sow  thinly  in  drills 
two  feet  apart.  Gather  them  for  use  while  young 
and  tender.  These  are  usually  inferior  with  us  to  the 
class  of  kidney  beans. 

Bean.  Phaseolus  vnlc/aris. — ^The  class  of  kidney 
beans  is  so  extensively  known  and  cultivated  as  hard- 
ly to  require  a  notice  here.  They  are  called  kidney 
beans  in  contradistinction  to  the  English  bean,  or  vi- 
da  fala.  There  are  a  large  number  of  kinds  of  the 
dwarfs,  and  also  of  the  runners  or  pole  bean,  of  this 
variety.  Some  of  the  most  popular  of  the  dwarfs, 
are,  the  Early  Yelloiu  Six  Weeks, '  Early  IloJiaiuk  which 
is  not  injured  by  a  smart  frost.  Early  Casehiife,  Early 
Dwarf  HorticuUurcd,  Early  Valentiney  and  the  Divarf 
Red  zxiA  White  Cranberry. 


Kidney  Dwarfs  should  be  planted  as  soon  as  the 
danger  of  frosts  is  over,  in  light  rich  soil,  three  or 
four  in  a  hill  or  in  drills  two  or  three  feet  apart.  Let 
them  be  carefully  hoed,  drawing  the  earth  around  the 
stems  a  very  little  at  each  time. 

Of  the  pole  beans  or  runners,  the  White  Casehiife^ 
London  Horticultural^  and  the  Red  and  White  Cranlerry^ 
are  perhaps  the  most  popular  in  this  State.  They  are 
all  worthy  of  cultivation.  Pole  beans  should  be  plan- 
ted in  hills  two  feet  apart,  putting  four  or  five  beans 
in  a  hill,  and  leaving  a  space  in  the  centre  for  the  pole. 
They  should  not  be  planted  till  all  danger  of  frost  is 
past,  as  they  are  more  tender  than  the  dwarfs.  When 
the  runners  begin  to  start  they  should  be  trained  to 
the  pole.  More  the  ground  frequently  in  dry  weath- 
er and  keep  it  free  from  vfeeds.  It  should  be  well  en- 
riched with  fermented  manure. 

The  Lima  Beans  which  are  very  popular  in  some 
other  states  do  not  succeed  well  in  this,  and  therefore 
are  cultivated  only  with  the  assistance  of  a  Hot  Bed. 
To  hoil  String  Beans. — Take  oif  the  strings  and  cut 
the  beans  into  short  pieces.  Boil  them  with  a  little 
salt,  from  twenty  to  forty  minutes,  according  to  their 
age.  A  little  salaratus  in  the  pot  preserves  their 
green  color  and  makes  them  more  healty.  They  aught 
to  be  quite  tender  before  taken  from  the  fire.  Add 
salt,  butter,  and  a  little  sweet  cream,  and  they  are 
ready  for  the  table. 

Shell  Beans, — These  are  cooked  in  the  same  way 
either  with  or  without  the  salaratus. 

"To  haliC  White  Beans. -^Vick  them  over  carefully 
and  at  evening  put  them  in  a  slightly  warm  place. — 
Put  a  quart  of  Avater  to  a  pint  of  beans.  The  next 
morning  rinse  them  well  in  tw^o  or  three  waters,  and 
boil  them  ten  or  fifteen  minutes ;  at  the  end  of  which 
time  take  them  up  with  a  skimmer  and  lay  them  in 
a  baking  dish.  Put  in  the  centre  a  piece  of  salt  pork, 
having  the  rind  scored,  with  the  top  just  exposed  ; 
and  then  pour  in  cold  water  so  that   it  may  be  seen 


S3 

at  the  sides  of  the  dish."  Add  a  little  salaratus  and 
Fiigar  or  moias^ies.  Bake  them  in  a  hot  brick  oven 
from  three  to  six  hours. 

Beet.  Beta  vulgarins. — The  principal  kinds  of  beets 
cultivated  for  the  kitchen,  are  Earh/  Taniip-rooied 
Blood  Pted,  Long  Blood  Red  and  YfHiTE  ScfGAR. 

"Beets  delight  ia  rich  yellow  ground,  having  been  manured  for 
the  previous  crop.  Sow  the  seeds  in  drills  one  inih  d-^ep  and  four- 
teen inches  apart;  cover  them  up  and  tramp  firm.  Tli«  turnip 
rooted  can  be  sowed  as  soon  as  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground  in 
spring,  for  summer  use,  and  the  long  blood  in  June  for  v/inter 
use  Hoe  well  between  the  rows,  and  keep  free  from  weeds.— 
When  the  plants  are  two  inches  high,  thin  them  out  to  four  inches 
apart.  Dig  up  the  roots  before  hard  frost  in  fall,  put  them  in  the 
ciillar  among  dry  earih,  and  plant  out  a  few  of  the  best  in  spring 
to  raise  seed. —  Walter  Elder. 

To  PicMe. — Wash  your  beets  and  boil  them  before 
scraping  as  scraping  tends  to  bleach  them  in  the  boil- 
ing. When  they  are  boiled  tender,  cut  them  in  slices 
and  pour  upon  them  cold  spiced  vinegar. 

BaoccoLi.  Brassica  oleracea,  var. — "This  is  a  species  of  cab- 
bage with  long  leaves  and  cheese  like  heart,  which  is  very  tender 
and  delicious.  Sow  in  drills  half  inch  deep  and  six  inches  apart, 
in  June:  transplant  int§  rows  thirty  inches  apart  each  way  in  Au- 
gust, and  use  the  hearts  when  they  become  full  grown,  which  will 
be  in  October  and  November.  The  leaves  are  not  for  use.  Broc- 
coli delights  in  rich  loam,  and  is  best  in  wet  seasons." — Cottage 
Garden. 

It  is  a  very  wholesome  vegetable.  The  Purple  Cape 
and  Large  White  are  the  desirable  varieties.  It  is  pre- 
pared for  the  table  in  the  same  way  that  Caidiflovjer 
is,  which  see. 

Cabbage.  Brassica  oleracia  Capilata. — The  kinds 
most  valued  for  early  eating  are  the  Early  York,  Ear- 
ly Sugarloaf,  Early  Battersea  and  Early  Oxheart;  the 
latter  is  somewhat  tender  as  regards  frosts. 

"Cabbage  seed,  for  a  very  early  crop,  should  be  sown  in  a  hot 
bed  in  March;  give  plenty  of  air,  and  thin  out  the  plants,  that 
they  may  grow  strong.  When  the  plants  are  four  or  five  inches 
high,  they  should  be  transplanted,  if  the  weather  is  mild,  into  the 
open  ground,  in  rows  two  feet  apart,  and  about  fifteen  inches 
apart  in  the  row;  m^ke  the  ground  rich  and  light,  and  set  them 
firmly;  as  they  grow,  give  frequent  hoeings,  and  keep  clear  of 


34 

weedd.  Those  who  have  no  hot  beds,  should  sow  in  the  open 
ground  early  in  May,  which  will  bo  soon  enough  for  a  genera! 
crop." 

The  Drumhead,  Bergen,  Drumhead  Savoy,  and 
Curled  Savoy  are  the  varieties  most  esteemed  for  win- 
ter use. 

*'They  need  not  be  sown  until  tlie  middle  of  May;  sow  in  drills 
or  broadcast,  in  beds  properly  prepared,  and  thin  out  as  soon  as 
they  are  one  inch  high;  transplant  them  in  June,  in  rows  two  feet 
apart.  Those  who  wish  to  preserve  their  cabhages  through  the 
winter,  should  take  them  up  in  dry  weather,  and  plant  them  down 
to  the  leaves,  and  close  together,  in  a  dry,  sheltered  spot.  The 
whole  must  be  covered  securely  with  straw  and  boards,  to  keep 
off  rain." 

Or  a  trench  may  be  made  into  which  the  cabbages 
may  be  placed  heads  down  and  the  whole  covered 
with  earth.  It  should  be  in  a  dry  place  where  water 
will  not  be  likely  to  settle  in  large  quantities  upon 
them.  They  will  keep  good  and  fresh  until  spring. 
Red  Cabbage  makes  an  excellent  pickle. 

Carrot.  Daiiciis. — The  kinds  best  for  garden  cul- 
ture, are,  the  Early  Horn,  and  Long  Orange. 

"Sow  in  drills  half  ii:ch  deep  and  fourteen  inches  apart.  The 
early  horn  can  be  sowed  as  soon  as,  the  ground  is  fit  to  dig  in 
spring,  for  summer  use,  and  ihe  long  orange  in  June,  for  fall  and 
winter  use.  Cover  the  seed,  and  tramp  the  earth  firm  on  them. 
When  the  plants  are  two  inches  high,  thin  them  to  three  inches 
apart,  hoe  between  the  rows  and  keep  clear  of  weeds.  Late  in 
fall  dig  them  up,  and  put  them  in  the  cellar  among  the  dry  earth; 
and  in  spring  plant  out  a  i^w  of  the  best  for  raising  seeds." — The 
Cottage  Garden. 

''Cauliflower.  Brassica  oleracca,  var.  boiryfis. — The  cauli- 
flower is  one  of  the  most  delicate  and  curious  of  the  whole  of  the 
brassica  tribe;  the  flower  buds  foiming  a  close,  firm  cluster  or 
head, white  and  delicate,  for  the  sake  of  which  the  plant  is  cultiva- 
ted."— Jlmerican,  Gardener. 

The  varieties  most  cultivated  in  this  State  are  the 
Early  American  and  the* Large  Late. 

"The  cultivation  of  this  is  the  same  as  cabbage,  but  the  crop  is 
not  so  sure;  it  being  more  affected  by  climate.  The  scorching 
rays  of  the  sun  in  dry  we;ither  are  nbt  favorable  to  it  and  land 
;hat  is  very  rich,  deep,  and  stands  the  drought  well,  is  the  best  for 
(ts  cultivation.     When  the  plant  begins  to  flower  the  leaves  should 


35 

be  broken  or  bent  over  it  to  shade  the  flower  rnd  water  freely  ap- 
plied about  the  roots.  It  is  said  that  when  the  plarjt  does  not  flow- 
er ill  the  field  th;it  it  will  in  th(^  winter  if  well  sot  out  in  a  damp 
cellar." — Bij  a  JS'ew  Hampshire  Gardener. 

To  Prepare  Caidifloiuers. — Take  off  the  centre  leaves; 
round  such  as  are  young  leave  j  ust  one  leaf;  put  them 
with  some  salt  and  a  little  milk  into  boiling  water ; 
boil  according  to  size,  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes ; 
try  the  stalk  with  a  fork  and  when  the  stalk  feels  ten- 
der and  the  fork  is  easily  withdrawn,  the  fiower  is 
done.  Take  up  instantly  with  a  wire  ladle  and  serve 
with  butter  sauce. 

Celery.  '  Apiwn  graveoleiis. — The  varieties  most  es- 
teemed are  Seymour's  Superb  White  Solid  and  the 
Eose-colored  Solid. 

"The  seed  of  this  plant  when  intended  for  an  early  crop  should 
be  sown  in  a  hot  bed  sometime  in  March,  and   the   plants    picked 
out  as  soon  as  the  leaves  are  about  two  inches  long,  at   the   dis- 
tance of  an  inch  or    two  apart  and   sliould  stand   in   the  bed   until 
they  are  large  enough   to  set  in  the   trenches  where  they   are   to 
grow.     Before  setting  the   plants,  tHe   largest   leaves    should    be 
cropped  off,  as  they  start  better  than   when  left    on.     For    a   late 
crop  the  seed  may  be  sown  in  the  garden  any   time  in  April,    and 
in  all  cases  the  ground  should  be  finely   pulverized,   and  the   seed 
covered  not  more  than  1-4  of^n   inch  deep.        The  seeds  should 
be  sown  in  moist,  cool  land,  and  shaded   from  11    o'clock   A.   M., 
until  2  P.  M.,  as  a  hot  sun  will  kill  the  plants  when  they  first  come 
up.     The  land  most  suitable   for  its  cuhivntiqn  is  a   deep,  black, 
rich  loam,  and  should  be  prepared  by  digging  trenches  from  four 
to  five  feet  from  centre  to  centre — one  foot  wide  and  one  or  more 
deep.     The  manure  should  then  be  put  in  and  if  not  fine  it  should 
be  made  so  by  chopping  and  mixing  with  dirt   until  the  trench   is 
nearly  half  full;   then  put  on  dirt  enough  to  cover  all  the  manure, 
and  the  ground  is  ready  for  the  plants.     The  plants  should  be  set 
in  the  centre  of  the  trench  and  about  eight  inches  apart,  and  kept 
clean  from  weeds  until  the  leaves  are  about  one  foot  long  at  which 
time  it  is  large  enough  for  bleaching;   which  is  done  by  filling   up 
the  trench  and  hiliincr  up  the  earth  about  the  leaf  stocks.     In  do- 
ing this,  care  should  be  taken  to  keep  the  leaves  straight   and  the 
dirt  out  of  the  centre  of  the   stocks.     The    dirt    may    be    put    up 
within  three  or  four  inches  of  the  lop  of  the  leaves  the  first  hillings 
and  then  go  through  the  same  process  as  often  as  once  in  7  or  10 
days  until  it  is  fit  for  use.     I  have   used   liquid   manure   and   salt 
with  very  good  success  on  my  plants  before  bleaching,   but  no 
manure  should  come  in  contact  with  the  leaves    when  the  process 


of  bleaching  is  going  on.  Some  gardeners  set  Jceper  and  nearer 
than  what  1  have  mentioned,  and  it  is  frequently  raised  without 
trenches,  but  this  latter  mode  takes  more  land  as  the  ridges  have 
io  be  made  higher.  Celery  is  generally  raised  as  a  second  crop 
after  early  potatoes,  vines,  onions,  cabbages,  &c." — By  a  dislin- 
guished  JYew  Hampshire  Gardener. 

Chive.  AUium  schoenoprasum. — Chives  are  used  by 
many  both  m  the  kitchen  and  m  salads^  and  are  a  sub- 
stitute for  spring  onions.  They  will  grow  in  almost 
any  soil  and  are  easily  propagated  by  ofi-sets.  They 
may  be  planted  in  rows  eight  or  nine  inches  asunder 
and  four  or  five  in  a  row.  Early  in  the  spring  is  the 
proper  time  for  planting. 

CoRNj  (Indian.)  Zea  may^. — Green  Indian  Corn 
makes  one  of  the  most  delicious  dishes  that  the  gar- 
den affords.  The  varieties  best  adapted  for  table  use, 
are,  the  Early  White  Jefferson,  which  is  much  earlier 
than  the  small  Canada,  the  Eight-rowed  Sugar,  Dar- 
ling's Early  Sugar,  paid  the  Twelve-rowed  Sugar  for 
the  late  crop.  The  soil  should  be  deep,  rich,  dry  and 
mellow.  Mark  out  cross  rows  from  three  to  four  feet 
apart  each  way  and  at  each  crossing  make  a  hill.  Put 
a  shovelful  of  old  manure  or  compost  in  each  hill  and 
mix  it  with  the  soil.  Drop  five  or  six  kernels  of  corn 
in  each  and  cover  about  one  and  a  half  inches  deep. 
The  plants  should  be  reduced  to  three  when  they 
have  passed  all  danger  from  worms.  They  should  be 
kept  free  of  weeds  and  slightly  hilled  as  the  corn 
grows.  When  the  kernel  is  fally  in  the  milk  it  is  fit 
for  use. 

^''To  Boil. — Green  corn  is  sweetest  when  boiled  upon  the  cob, 
from  fifteen  to  thirty  minutes,  according  to  its  age.  Some  per- 
sons do  not  strip  off  the  inner  husks,  until  after  the  corn  has  been 
boiled,  thinking  that  its  rich  flavor  is  thereby  better  retained. — 
The  kernels  can  be  cut  off  with  a  knife,  and  sensoned  with  butter, 
pepper  and  salt,  or  carried  to  the  table  untouched.  None  but  the 
over- fastidious  will  object  to  eating  directly  from  the  cob* 

Green  Corn  Pudding. — To  three  teacupsful  of  grated  corn,  add 
two  quarts  of  milk,  eight  eggs,  two  teaspoonsful  of  salt,  one-half 
teacupful  of  melted  butter,  together  with  a  little  nutmeg.  Bake 
for  one  hour,  and  eat  with  sauce. 


s-z 

Green  Corih  Oyster.f. — To  one  pint  of  grated  corn,  add  one  well- 
beaten  eg5,  one  teaciipful  of  (lour,  one  halt'  teacupful  of  butter, 
with  salt  and  pepper  to  the  taste.  Mix  them  well  together.  A 
tablespoonful  dropped  into  lard,  will  make  a  cake  of  the  size  of 
an  oyster.  Fry  to  a  light  brown,  and  when  cooked,  moisten  it 
with  cream  or  butter.  >  ,' 

Tu  Dry  for  Winter  Use. — After  the  ears  have  been  boiled,  the 
kernels  are  to  be  cut  off  by  a  knife,  or  shelled  by  running  the 
prong  of  a  fork  along  the  base  of  the  grain.  Spread  them  upon 
a  cloth  in  a  shaded,  airy  place,  but  carry  into  the  house  at  night- 
fall. They  will  require  several  days  to  become  perfectly  dried, 
wht^n  they  are  to  be  put  away  in  cloth  bags.  The  ravages  of 
mice  must  be  carefully  guarded  against". 

Succotash. — Put  three  quarts  of  cold  water  to  on^ 
lialf  pound  of  salt  pork  and  place  them  upon  the  fire. 
Cut  three  quarts  of  green  corn  from  the  cobs  and  boil 
the  cobs  with  the  pork,  or  scrape  the  cobs  and  save 
the  scrapings  to  thicken  with.  When  the  pork  has 
boiled  one  half  hour,  take  out  the  cobs  and  put  in 
one  quart  of  freshly  shelled  beans.  Boil  them  fifteen 
minutes,  add  the  three  quarts  of  corn  and  boil  the 
whole  until  it  is  tender.  Add  butter,  salt,  sugar,  creana 
and  pepper  to  suit  t'le  taste.  It  may  be  made  in  win- 
ter, by  using  corn  prepared  as  before  directed  for  win- 
ter use,  soaking  it  over  night  and  adding  it  to  the 
beans  when  they  become  tender. 

Cress.  lApideum  SaiivuirK — The  principal  variety 
of  cress  is  usually  known  as  Pepper  grass.  As  soon  as 
the  weather  will  permit  in  Spring,  select  some  warm 
situation  and  sow  the  seed  thickly  in  drills  six  inches 
apart.  The  ground  should  be  finely  pulverized  and 
the  sowings  be  repeated  once  in  two  weeks  till  fall.— 
It  is  in  perfection  when  two  inches  high  and  should 
be  cut  close  to  the  ground.  It  is  used  as  a  salad  with 
lettuce,  mustard,  kc. 

Cucumber.  Cmmnh  sativus. — The  cucumber  requires 
a  light,  rich  loam.  TTie  hills  should  be  raised  on  the 
out  side  that  they  may  retain  the  rain  that  falls,  and 
afford  a  place  into  which  to  pour  water  in  case  there 
should  be  a  dry  time,  as  the  cucumber  requires  a  large 
amount  of  moisture.     The  Early  Frame,  Early  Cinder, 


ss 

Long  and  SJiort  Pnclcbj^  and  ifhe  Long  )7reen  Turhy 
are  the  kinds  most  valued.  For  directions  in  regard 
to  bugs/see  article  ^-Destruction  of  Vermin." 

"Sowing  in  the  open  air  may  be  performed  in  the  latter  part  of 
April,  or  any  time  during  the  month  of  Ma),  according  to  the 
character  of  the  season.  Plants  of  very  early  sowings  are  apt  to 
be  cut  off  by  a  late  frost.  Nevertheless/it  wili  he  for  one's  inter- 
est to  get  the  seed  into  the  crround  as  soo  i  ;is  it  can  be  done  with 
safety.  The  first  labor  will  be  to  mark  but  the  hills  at  reguliir 
diiitances;  perhaps,  five  feet  apart  each  Svhy  will  be  sufficient,  but 
to  allow  six  feet  is  much  the  ijott'er  plan.  They  should  be  dug 
eul  to  the  depth  of  twelve  or  fifteeti  inc^ies,  with  about  the  same 
diamster,  and  be  partly  filled  with  well  ratted  dung,  or  a  compost 
W  hen-dung,  ove.''laid  by  some  rich,  mellow  loam.  Sow  .five  or 
•isix  feeeds  in  each;  at  which  rate,  one  ounce  of  seed  wiH  planrt 
'near  two  hundred  hi'ls. 

Cucumbers  intended  for  pickling  purposes,  should  b«  pfetifd^ 
sometime  during  the  first  fortnight  of  July.  In  the  hearing  seVp- 
'iob,  the  vines  ought  to  be  examined  daily,  and,  in  order  to  secure 
greater  productiveness,  be  relieved  of  the  fruii  as  soon  as  it  ac- 
quires a  proper  size. 

The  Hand- Glass  is  useful  in  forwardirt^  ^M.iits.  Arid  'for's-nftH 
cultivators,  we  think  it  more  important  tlian  the  hot-bed.  Ir  thfe 
"beginning  of  April,  a  small  Ijole,  say  eighp?en  inches  deep,  and  as 
"♦vide  as  the  glass  to  be  emploved,  should  be  dug  on  aWarm  bor- 
"der  having  a  southern  exposure.  Put  in  fourteen  or  fifteen  inches 
of  active  manure,  and  cover  that  w  iih  six  inches  of  fine,  ridh  suil, 
on  which  the  seeds  are  to  be  sown.  Place  a  hand-glass  (Wer  the 
hill^  and,  during  cold  days  or  nights,  give  the  additional  protect- 
ion of  a  mat,  or^a  layer  hf  loner  litter.  While  it  is  desirable  to 
preserve  a  high  temperature  below  thte  'glass,  fresh  air  mui^t  lD>e 
jadmitted,  in  such  quantities  and  at  such  times  as  will  se<?ure  a 
Tigorous  growth,  together  with  a  strono^^  healthy  green  color  in 
the  plants.  As  the  season  advances,  th'^y  ought  to  be  gradually 
mrderied,  in  order  that  they,  rtiay  not  suflJer  serious  inconvenience 
Irein  the  entire  removal  of  t!he  glass.  The  proper  reguldtiori  6^ 
'thii^  Diatter  wil|  require  a  good  deal  of  judgment,  lest  <thfe  teiidet 
▼ines  experience  a  fatal  check,  fmm  the  want  of  that  shelter  ub- 
<ler  Which  they  have  been  coaxed  info  a  premature  existence. 

Hand-glasses  are  also  valuable  in  tiie  preto'ciionof  tarly  plains 
raised  on  a  hot  bed,  or  in  a  warm  kitchen  window,  and  removed 
to  the  open  ground  before  the  Weath'er  becomes  seit'.ed.  W^ 
have  found  the  vit\e-shield  a  very  cheap  and  efficient  nul^Ftitiu^^ 
alihouorh  it  may  be  considered  iiVfeVioir'  to  the  regular  hand-glass." 
—  Gardener's  Text  Book.  "i 

-     ■         ■<    ■  ■  ':  \  .'■     ", 

The  Egg-Platvt.  Solanum  :?l^€?()n^^6flVi[,— ''This  is  a  tender 
plant  and  easily  killed  \y  frost.      lAerefoi^  if  i^*int^d  iyi^''^^<Trry 


\i|sethe,p]Qnis  iuu?^l  he  raised  in  a  hot-bed>  or  they  may  bono\vn  ia 

any  goocj  rich  gc^rden  s^.i)  in  llio.  momh  of  May,  and  the,  plants 
kept  at  the  ili>jatic«  of  -^  or  25i  i,nch'>s  apart,  When  about  a  fopt 
high,  they  s.hoiihi  he,  hillexi  a  little.  The  cqUiya,liun  is  very  sim- 
ple ^r)d  (ff^sy.TT-Bij  a  jy,,  H.  Gjirdcner. 

The  Lomj^Fiirple  is  the  kind  used  for  culinary  pur- 
poses.  "The  J !%?{?  i^  an  ornamental  variety. 

To  Caok. — "The  fruit  contains  an  acrid  juice,  which  ought  to 
be  removed  before  cookirj;^.  For  this  purpose,  pile  up  the  slicesi 
on  a  plate,  with  I  lyers  of  .suit,  and  r;iise  one  side  of  the  plate,  so 
tl)a,lt|ie  juice  may  run  off'  wiihoat  aiTecting  the  taste  of  the  lower 
^ice.  ■  After  refnainiiig,30  for  abnut  half  ati  hour,  the^y  shoujd  bl^: 
\vell,;vvashed  in  Iresh  wa,^er,  and  then  fried  quiie,  brown  in  battejt]*!* 

Endive, —  Cichoriv.m  endivia.—-T\iQ  Green  Curled,  and' 
the  White  are  tlie  kinds  for  the  main  crop. 

"Sow  in  rich  soil  at  intervals  from  April  to  July,  in  drills  fif- 
teen inches  apart,  and  the  plants  eight  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 
Iloe  them  frequently,  'Tie  up  the  leaves  when  fully  grovyn,  to 
l^Iainch  the  heads.  They  are  lased  as  a  salad.  The  green  curle^; 
is  the  best." 

Fennel.  Ancthiimfccnicidnm. — ''They  are  all  raised  from  seed 
of  which  half  an  ounce  is  sufficient  for  a  seed-bed  four  feet  by 
gix  feet.  Sometimes,  also,  they  are  raised  from  offsets  from 
the  old  plants,  where  only  a  few  are  wanted.  'Sow  in  the  spring 
in  light  earth,  either  in  (drills  from  six  to  twelve  inches  apart,  or 
broad-cast  and  rake  in.  When  the  plants  are  three  or  four  inch- 
es high,  thin  or  transplant  a  quantity  fifteen  inches  asunder.  Ai 
the  roots  of  old  plants  divide  into  side  offsets,  these  may  he 
sJipped  off  in  spring,  summer,  or  autumn,  and  planted  a  foot  apart. 
They  will  produce  immediate  leaves  for  present  supply,  and  ia 
continuance;  or,  for  an  immediate  larger  supply  of  leayea,  yojtt 
may  procure  some  established  full  roots,  and  phnt  as  above.:  .let 
them  be  well  watered.' 

The  tender  stalks  of  common  fennel  ar-e  used  in  salads;  the 
leaves,  boiled,  enter  into  many  fi-h  sauces;  and,  raw,  are  garn- 
ishes for  several  dishes.  The  blanched  stalks  of  the  variety  call- 
ed finochio  are. eaten  v/ith  oil,  vinegar,  and  pepper,  as  a  cold  sal- 
ad, and  they  are  likewise  sometimes  put  into  soups.^* — Loudon. 

Horse-Radish.  CocJilearia  annora^ia. — "Like  every  other, 
plant,  this  bears  sred;  hut  it  is  best  propagated  by  cuttifig  bits  of 
it^  roots  into  lengths  of  two  inches,  and  putting  them,  spring  or 
fall,  into  the  ground  about  a  foot  deep  with  a  setting-stick.  They 
will  find  their  way  up  the  first  year;  and  the  second  they  will  be 
fine  large  roots,  if  the  ground  be  trenched  deeply  and  made  pret- 
ty good.  Half  a  square  perch  of  ground,  planted  at  a  foot  apart 
♦very  way,  will,  if;  kept  clear  of  weeds,  produce  enough  for  a 


M^i^.>ik, 


40 

fatnilj  that  eats  roast  beef  every  day  of  their  lives.  You  must 
take  care  that  the  horse-radish  roots  do  not  spread,  and  that  bits 
of  them  be  not  flang  about  the  ground;  for,  wlien  once  in,  no  til- 
lage will  get  them  out,  They  must  be,  like  the  dock  and  dande- 
lion roots,  absolutely  burnt  hy^'re,  or  by  a  &un  that  will  reduce 
them  to  a  state  of  a  dry  stick,  or  must  be  taken  4jp  and  carried 
away  from  the  spot.  Though  a  very  valuable  and  wholesome  ar- 
ticle of  diet,  it  is  a  most  pernicious  weed." — Cobbttt. 

Leek.  Allium  porrum. — The  ^^cotch  Flag,  and  Large 
London  are  the  most  choice  kinds. 

"Sow  early  in  spring,  in  rich  ground,  in  drills  an  inch  deep, 
and  tvvelve  inches  apart.  About  the  beginning  of  summer  trans- 
plant them,  six  inches  apart,  in  rows.  When  it  is  wished  to  have 
them  blanched,  they  may  be  transplanted  inio  shallow  trenches, 
three  or  four  inches  deep,  and  earthed  up  like  celery." 

It  is  used  for  the  various  purposes  for  which  the 
onion  is  esteemed. 

Lettuce.  Lactiica  mtiva. — This  is  undoubtedly  the 
best  of  all  salads.  It  is  divided  into  two  classes,  the 
6V>5'  and  Ckhhage  Lettuces.  The  former  class  does  not 
succeed  well  with  us.  Of  the  latter,  the  Early  Curled 
Silesia,  Royal  Cape,  India,  Brcnvn  Dutch,  and  Grand  Ad- 
miral, are  amono;  the  esteemed  kinds.  Lettuces  mav 
be  raised  readily  in  Hot  Beds.  The  first  sowings  in 
open  grounds  should  be  made  as  soon  as  the  weather 
will  permit ;  say  sometime  in  April.  When  the  plants 
are  two  inches  high  they  should  be  thinned  so  as  to 
stand  four  inches  apart.  Those  that  are  drawn  out 
may  be  set  in  another  bed  or  row.  When  the  plants 
are  four  or  five  inches  high  they  should  be  thinned  to 
eight  or  ten  inches.  The  ground  sliould  be  frequent- 
ly istirred  and  the  plants  have  an  abundance  of  water, 
as  upon  this  depends  their  tenderness.  A  second 
sowing  may  be  made  four  or  five  weeks  later  and  a 
third  in  August.  The  India  and  the  Cap)c  are  the 
best  for  the  dry  weather  of  summer  and  early  fall. — 
By  pursuing  the  above  course  a  person  can  raise  Let- 
tuce that  is  very  fine  and  tender  and  heads  of  a  very 
large  size. 

Marjoham.  Origanum. — There  are  two  varieties, 
the  >SVv^/  and  the  Winfer.     They  axe  propagated   by 


41 

Meed  sown  in  drills  and  covered  half  an  inch  deep. — 
The  middle  of  Spring  is  the  proper  time  for  sowing. 
The  plants  shonld  be  thinned  to  six  inches.  It  grows 
best  on  a  dry,  mellow,  and  rich  soil.  When  the  liow- 
ers  are  about  to  expand  gather  a  supply  for  winter 
and  hang  it  in  a  shady  place  to  dry.  It  is  used  as  a 
seasoning  in  soups  and  meats,  also  as  a  medicine. 

Melon. — The  melon  holds  a  conspicuous  place  among 
fruits.  There  are  two  varieties,  the  3Iusk  ( Cncinnis 
melo,)  and  the  Water  Melon  [ci'cnrUta  citndliis).  There 
are  a  large  number  of  kinds  of  each  sort.  Of  the 
former,  the  Nutmeg,  the  Green  fleshed,  the  Earli/  Chris- 
tim,  the  Beechwood,  and  Skillman's  Fine  Nettled,  are 
deservedly  popular.  Of  the  latter,  the  Black  Spanish, 
Mountain  Sprout,  Carolina,  Long  Island,  and  Mountain 
Sweet  are  desirable  kinds. 

"Manure  and  dig  the  ground  well  for  Musk  Melons.  Plant 
them  in  May,  six  feet  apart  each  way.  Put  twelve  seeds  in  at 
each  place,  and  if  all  grow,  pull  up  all  but  three  at  a  place  when 
the  plants  are  four  inches  high.  Dust  them  with  lime  or  ashes, 
in  the  mornings  while  wet  with  dew,  twice  a  week,  until  they  have 
four  large  leaves,  to  keep  off  grubs  and  bugs.  The  fruit  will  be 
ripe  in  August.  It  has  a  sweet  scent,  and  parts  from  the  vine  on 
being  touched  when  ripe-     It  is  a  delicious  and  wholesome  fruit. 

"The  water  melon  is  cultivated  in  the  same  way  as  the  musk 
melon,  except  that  they  are  planted  ten  feet  apart  each  way. — 
Both  musk  and  water  melons  flourish  best  on  rich,  sandy  loam. — 
The  water  melon  is  ripe  when  it  has  a  breaking  sound  on  being 
pressed  by  the  hand;   it  is  a  wholesome  fruit. 

To  have  melons  a  month  earlier  than  by  the  above  method, 
have  boxes  made  two  feet  square,  sixteen  inches  deep  at  back, 
and  eight  inches  deep  at  front,  with  sloping  sides,  and  a  glazed 
sash  to  fit,  with  a  lath  on  each  side  as  high  as  the  sash,  to  keep  it 
from  being  blown  off  with  high  winds.  Having  all  ready  about. 
the  first  of  May,  dig  holes  about  two  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep; 
put  eighteen  inches  of  hot  horse  manure  in  them,  and  a  foot  of 
earth  above  it.  Plant  the  seeds  an  inch  deep  in  the  middle,  and 
place  the  box  and  sash  on  it.  When  the  plants  are  an  inch  high, 
push  down  the  sash  a  little  every  day  to  admit  air.  Be  sure  to 
draw  it  close  up  at  night,  and  if  there  appears  to  be  frost,  cover 
the  sash  with  mats  or  boards  over  night.  Water  when  needed. 
The  sash  can  be  taken  off  in  warm  days;  after  the  plants  have 
four  leaves,  both  box  and  sash  might  be  taken  off  altogether  by 
(he  siBCond  week  in  June." — Cottage  Garden. 


i'2 

To  hasten  the  ripening  of  melons  gardeners  recom- 
mend that  a  .piece  of  slate  or  shingle  painted  black  be 
placed  under  them  that  they  may  have  the  more  fall 
benefit  of  the  sini. 

Mint.  3fentha. — There  are  three  kinds;  Pennyroy- 
al {M,  mlegkim,)',  Peppermint,  {3£p{penla,);sind  Spear- 
mint {3£  viridis.)  They  do  best  on  a  moist  soil  and 
^re  propagated  either  by  seed  or  dividing  old,  roots. 
Save  them  for  winter  use  thesameas  J/^ryo/rOT.  The, 
last  is  used  for  cooking  and  the  others  for  making  herb 
teas. 

MusTAiiD.  Sinapis, — The  White  is  cultivated  as.  a 
salad.  The  leaves,  when  very  young,  are  used  like 
peppergrass.  Sow  in  drills,  at  different  times,  from 
April  to  June. 

Nasturtium.  Tropmolum  majm, — This  plant  is  some- 
times known  as  Indian  Cress.  It  is  deserving  of  cul;^, 
tivation  on  account  of  its  beautiful  qrangercqlojiQd 
flowers,  and  its  excellence  in  salads.  The  sejed  of  this 
plant,  Avhich  it  produces  abundantly,  makes  an  excels. 
lent  pickle ;  It  is  sown  in  drills,  in  April  or  early  fflj 
May.  Cover  about  an  inch  deep.  When  it  is  ^boiii; 
six  inches  high,  it  should  have  sticks  placed  for  it  to 
climb  upon,  or  it  may  be  planted  near  a  fence  and  be 
trnined  upon  that. 

To  PlcJcle. — Gather  the  berries  while  quite  green,^ 
but  after  they  are  fall  grown  and  k^ep  them  in  s?ilt' 
^nd  water  until  a  sufficient  quantity  is  obtained.-^—' 
Then  pour  off  the  brine  and  pour  upon  them  hot  spic- 
ed vinegar. 

Onion.  Allium  cepa. — This  plant  may  be  raised  with 
success  upon  the  same  ground,  as  has  been  proved; = 
for  three  fourths  of  a  century.  It  seems  to  prove  ait 
exception  to  rotation  of  crops  as  it  does  better  aft^r' 
it  has  been  raised  upon  the  same  ground  for  several 
3^ears.  The  kinds  that  are  propagated  by  seed  and 
most  esteemed  are^  the  White  Portugues^,  YelJoW 
Dan  vers,  Large  Red,  ^iid  the  Silv,e:r^Skinn^d,      Tho 


latter  is  wsecl  for  pickling.  The  onion  is  raieed  on  a 
light  soil  that  has  been  well  enriched  with  rotton  nia* 
niir&.  It  should  be  sown  from  the  middle  of  April  to 
the  middle  of  May.  Do  not  raise  your  bed.  After 
having  raked  it  smooth  and  fine  it  should  bo  pressed 
hard  either  by  walking  upon  it  or  some  other  way,— ;- 
(some  use  a  beetle,)  and  then  levelled  with  the  back 
of  a  rake.  Draw  the  drills  one  foot  apart  and  nearly 
an  inch  deep.  Scatter  the  seed  moderately  thick  and 
cover  with  fine  loam.  Smooth  the  bed,  by  walking 
upon  it,  and  then  sift  ashes  upon  it.  Keep  free  of 
weeds  and  at  the  first  thinning  reduce  them  to  two 
inches  and  afterwards  when  they  interfere  with  each 
Other  to  four  or  five  inches  apart.  It  is  thought  that 
they  bottom  better  when  the  earth  is  removed  from 
the  bulbs. 

Potato  Onwn.  Allium  tuberosum. — Not  infrequently  chlje*^ 
the  under-ground  onion,  in  consequence  of  its  producing  clusters 
of  offsets  from  the  roots.  Plant  in  March  or  April,  —  the  bulbs 
b«ing  ten  inches  from  each  other,  in  rows  one  fnot  apart,  and  hav- 
ing thieir  crowns  one  inch  below  the  surface.  The  feoil  should  be 
moderated)'  rich,  and,  for  convenience  of  cultivation,  laid  into  l^ed's 
four  feet  wide.  Make  good  use  of  the  hiife  ihroughout  the  slim- 
mer, and  occasionally  draw  a  little  earth  aromid  the  stems.  This 
prattke  of ''earthing,"  as  it  is  called,  is  geneially  fidlowed,  al- 
th'Oiigh  ^drtdemri^d  by  many  eminent  ^uihoiities.  The  crop  Will 
be  ntatured  feotnetime  during  the  month  of  August,  and  is  to  be 
harvested  like  the  comraott  onion. — P.  A.  Schencic. 

■  TBite  Onion.  Jillivm  prolrfftum. — This  hardy  pereniiial  spe^- 
cies  of  the  on^on  family  is  sometimes  called  the  Canada  Onroh«, 
because  it  is  much  cultivated  in  cold  countries  where  the  tlither 
kinds  d()  tiot  flourish  well.  Small  bulbs  are  produced  at  the  top 
of  the  stalks, — hence  its  name.  Propagation  is  effected  by  plant- 
ing (the  o(Fs€lts'6f  old  roots  in  spring  or  autumh,  or  Tht3  top  bulbs  in 
the  middle  of  spring.  They  should  be  set  about  six  inches  apart, 
in  rows  that  are  one  foot  distant  from  each  other.  The  only  care 
required,  is  to  keep  the  ground  well  tilled,  and  tosuppot  the  st«*ms 
by^j^thkes.  The'bidbs  a^-e  to  be  jrathered  when  the  tops  decayj 
driir'd'  in  a  shady  place,  ^and  preserved  in  a  dry,  Cool  apartmet/t.-^ 
^Gardenevls  Text-Book. 

To  bmll — Peel  the  onions,  and  put  them  into  boiling  mflk,  o'r 
milk  and  w^ter  tnix.ed.  When  they  become  tender,  iney  arfe  to 
be  taken  from  the  fire,   salted,  and  served  with   melted  butter. — 


44 

Changing  the  w:it«r  when  they  are  ahout  hall-boiled,  relieves  thern 
of  much  of  their  strong  flavor, 

#  To  })>cklr..-—i*ee\  the  onions,  and  boil  them  for  ten  minutes  in 
milit  iind  water.  To  one  gallon  of  vinegar,  put  one  half  ounce  of 
cinnamon  and  mace,  one  quarter  ounce  of  cloves,  one  half  ounce 
of  alum,  t(!irether  with  a  small  teacupful  of  salt.  The  spiced  vin- 
ec^ar  is  to  be  heated,  and  turned,  when  scalding  hot,  upon  the  on- 
ions, after  they  have  been  drained  from  the  milk  and  water.  Cov- 
er them  tight  until  they  become  cold. 

Onion  Sauce. — Take  peeled  onions,  boil  them  till  quite  tender, 
and  then  press  out  the  water  which  they  have  absorbed.  Chop 
them  tine,  add  butter  melted  in  milk,  and  place  the  dish  again  up- 
on the  lire. 

Parsley.  Apium  petroscUnmn, — The  Common,  the 
Curled-leaved,  and  the  Hamburgh,  are  the  varieties 
cultivated.  Sow  early  in  Spring  in  drills  one  inch 
deep,  and  ten  inches  apart.  Water  the  see  J  with  boil- 
ing water  which  greatly  hastens  vegetation,  reducing 
the  time  from  five  weeks  to  two  weeks.  Parsley  is 
used  for  seasoning  various  dishes  and  is  of  value  as  a 
garnish. 
■  Parsnip.  Pastinaca  satica. — The  Large  Dutch,  and 
the  Hollow  Crowned  or  Sugar,  are  worthy  of  cultiva- 
tion. The  ground  should  be  spaded  two  spades  deep 
and  made  rich  with  rotton  manure.  Sow  in  drills  one 
inch  deep  and  fifteen  inches  apart.  When  the  plants 
are  two  inches  high,  thin  to  three  inches  and  after- 
wards to  six  inches  apart.  Stir  the  ground  frequent- 
ly and  keep  clear  of  weeds.  They  are  sweeter  after 
a  severe  frost  and  should  not  therefore  be  gathered 
till  late  in  the  fall.  Those  wanted  for  spring  use  may 
be  kept  in  the  ground  all  winter.  Those  that  are  dug 
should  be  kept  in  sand. 

To  Cook. — Boil  them  tender  in  water  that  has  been 
salted  and  scrape  the  skin  off  and  send  to  the  table 
with  other  vegetables;   or,  mash  and  butter  them. 

Pea.  Pisimi  sativum.— The  varieties  of  Peas  culti- 
vated are  very  numerous.  Some  of  the  best  are  Hill's 
Extra  Early,'  Hovey's  Extra  Early,  Prince  Albert,  Ce- 
do  Nulli,  Dwarf  Marrowfat,  Dwarf  Blue  Imperial, 
Missouri  Marrow,  and  the  Champion  of  England.     Ei- 


45 

ther  will  give  satisfiictiunin  tlieir  place.  It  is  a  great 
obj  ect  with  cultivators  to  have  peas  early.  Cobbett 
says  the  crop  may  be  hastened  fifteen  days  by  fall 
sowing.  Trench  the  ground  mixing  in  green  mannre 
and  sow  just  as  the  frost  is  about  to  close  up  the 
ground.  They  should  not  be  sown  so  early  as  to 
sprout  in  the  fall.  Early  in  the  spring  as  soon  as  the 
frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  sow  either  of  the  first  three 
kinds,  perhaps,  Hoyey's  or  Hill's  Extra  Earlij  would 
be  the  best.  The  seed  should  be  sown  thickly  and  in 
double  drills;  that  is,  in  drills  six  inches  apart  with  a 
space  of  two  feet  between  each  pair  of  drills.  The 
large  kinds  should  be  sown  in  single  drdls  two  feet 
apart.  In  a  wet  season  it  is  better  to  bush  them,  but 
vn  a  dry  one  if  the  vines  lay  upon  the  ground  they 
serve  as  a  shade  and  therefore  do  not  suffer  so  much 
from  the  drou^rht.  Seed  should  be  sown  once  in  two 
weeki^  until  the  middle  of  July.  The  last  sowings 
should  be  inade  in  some  place  sheltered  from  the 
scorchi.ig  rays  of  the  sun,  and  if  the  weather  should 
prove  very  dry,  they  should  be  watered. 

"Tb  6oi/.-Green  peas  should  be  freshly  gathered,  and  not  shell- 
ed until  a  few  minutes  before  the  time  of  cooking.  Wash  them 
clean,  and  then  put  them  into  boiling  water,  with  salaratus  in  the 
proportion  of  one  quarter  ter.spoonful  to  one  half  peck  of  peas. 
When  they  are  tender,  take  them  up  by  means  of  a  skimmer,  put 
a  piece  of  butter  in  the  dish,  and  sprinkle  on  a  little  salt." 

Pepper.  •  Cqmicum. — The  Squash,  Bell,  and  Long  or 
Cayenne  are  most  cultivated.  Choose  a  light,  dry  and 
rich  soil.  Loosen  it  thoroughly.  For  very  early  crops, 
sow  in  a  mild  hotbed  at  the  commencement  of  spring; 
for  later,  sow  in  the  open  ground  when  it  becomes 
warm.  When  the  plants  are  three  inches  high  trans- 
plant them  into  very  rich  ground,  fifteen  inches  apart. 
Hoe  the  ground  well  and  keep  it  free  of  weeds. — 
Pepper  is  used  for  seasoWng  meats  and  medicinal  pur- 
poses. 

Potato.  Solamm  tuberosum-. — There  is  a  very  large 
vai'iety  of  potatoes.  The  early  kinds  are  the  ones 
chiefly  cultivated  in  gardens.     The  Early  Blues,    Coio 


/< 


4G 

Horm,  Early  Kidneij^  Cflienangos,  and  Early  IliU^  ar'e 
some  of  the  earliest.  The  White  Jaclcson  and  the 
Black  are  the  most  popular  late  sorts  in  this  region. 

This  root  is  the  product  of  almost  every  soil,  al- 
though a  dry,  rich  one  is  best  suited  to  them.     A  sod 
turned  over  in  the  preceding  autumn,  so  as  to  become 
well-rotted  in  the  spring  after  the  grass  has  well  star- 
ted, is  perhaps  the  best  suited  to  give  a  fair  yield,  and 
at  the  same  time  a  fine,  healthy,  well-matured  return. 
They  may  be  planted  in  hills  or  drills,   according  to 
the  judgment  of  the  cultivator.     Whole  potatoes  of 
a  medium  size  are  better  for  planting  than  small,  or 
large  cut  ones.     They  should  be  well  hilled  up  in  hoe- 
ing.    The  hills  may  be  three   and  a  half  feet  apart; 
or,  if  in  drills,  they  may  be  three  and  a  half  feet  a- 
sunder^   and   the  potatoes  placed  about  ten  inches- 
apart. 

"Irish  mode  of  boiling. — Wash  the  potatoes  clean,  but  do  ne% 
pare  them;  then  put  them  into  hot  water,  and  boil  them  until  a 
fork  can  be  readily  inserted  Dash  in  a  pint  of  cold  water,  and! 
in  two  minutes  afterward,  pour  off  the  whole.  Now;set  the  pot, 
with  the  lid  half  drawn,  either  over  the  fire,  or  near  it,  for  the 
steam  to  evaporate;  when  the  potatoes  may  be  peeled,  and  car- 
ried to  the  table  in  an  uncovered  dish.  If  they  be  of  a  good  kmd 
ihia  mode  of  cooking  will  render  thern  sweet,  dry  and  mealy,  very 
different  from  the  water-soaked  lumps  too  often  seen. 

To  roast. — Select  potatoes  of  a  nearly  equal  size,  that  they 
may  all  occupy  about  the  same  length  of  time  in  cooking.  After 
thfey  are  washed  clean,  put  them  in  a  tin  pan,  and  bake  in  a  stove 
or  oven.     Send  them  to  the  table  unskinned.'' 

"Potato,  (Sweet.)  Convolvulus  batatas — The  best  soil  tor  the 
sweet  potato  plant  is  light,  dry,  of  rather  a  sandy  character,  and 
in  a  warm  situation.  It  should  be  prepared  for  planting,  by  be- 
ing deeply  dug  or  ploughed,  and  enriched  by  a  liberal  application 
of  manure.  All  the  large  clods  ought  to  be  pulverized.  The 
ground  can  then  be  laid  into  beds  three  feet  wide,  with  a  very 
shallow  drill  through  the  middle  of  each,  or  marked  out  in  hills, 
three  feet    apart  each  way. 

Where  the  season  is  of  sufficient  length,  the  seed  potatoes  may 
be  planted  immediately  in  the  beds  prepared  for  their  reception; 
but,  in  northern  climates,  artificial  heat  is  necessary  to  procure 
early  plants.  In  the  latter  case,  the  roots  are  to  be  split  and 
placed  about  three  or  four  inches  deep  in  the  soil  of  a  hot-bed, 
sometime  during  the  latter  part  of  spring.     This  bed  is  composed 


47 

%r  good,  warm  lUing,  to  the  depth  of  twelve  or  fifteen  inches,  cov- 
ered with  eight  inches  of  sandy  loam.  The  lunners  will  show 
themselves  in  the  course  of  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks,  and  the 
bed  ought,  during  the  process  of  sprouting,  to  receive  an  occa- 
sional sprinkling  of  water.  When  three  inches  high  above  the 
surface,  they  are  of  the  right  size  lor  removal  to  the  open  ground. 
In  taking  them  up,  place  the  left  hand  on  the  potato,  to  keep  it 
from  moving,  and  draw  them,  one  by  one,  with  the  right  hand. — 
If  they  be  planted  in  drills,  they  should  be  set  about  nine  or  ten 
inches  asunder;  but,  if  in  hills,  two  plants  must  be  allotted  to 
each.  The  operation  is  most  successful,  when  perforcoed  at  even- 
ing, or  in  dpjnp,  cloudy  weather;  and,  in  a  dry  time,  frequent  ap- 
plications of  water,  until  the  roots  have  taken  hold  firmly,  will  be 
ibund  of  great  advantage.  The  potatoes  in  the  bed  v/ill  continue 
throwing  up  sprouts,  for  as  much  as  three  or  four  weeks. 

For  Seed. — The  roots  must  be  taken  very  carefully  from  the 
ground,  as  the  least  bruise  engenders  decay.  They  are  to  be 
packed  in  leaves  or  eand,  which  have  been  exposed  to  the  influ- 
ence of  the  sun  or  a  fire  until  perfectly  dry,  and  then  stored  in  a 
room  where  no  injiiry  in  to  be  apprehended  irom  the  cold." — P. 
A.  Schench. 

To  CooJc. — "When  desired  as  an  nccompaniment  to 
meats  it  should  be  baked  .';s  it  if^  nmcli  better  than 
when  boiled. 

*' Sweet  Potai-o  Pie. — 3oiI  the  potatoes  very  soft;  then  peel  and 
mash  them.  To  every  quarter  cf  a  pound,  put  one  quart  of  milk, 
three  tablespoonsful  of  butter,  faur  beaten  eggs,  together  with 
sugar  and  nutmeg  lo  the  taste. 

Eadish.  Raphanus  sativns.  Select  the  Fa?'!i/  JSmr- 
let  Short  Top^  Li>ng  Sahion  and  the  Turnip  roofed^ 

"To  produce  good  clean  radishes  they  must  be  sov/n  in  yery 
rich  soil:  and  eapecially  in  old  gardens,  which  are  liable  to  be 
infested  by  insects,  it  ihould  be  highly  manured  and  made  fine. — 
The  seed  may  be  sown  ai  aoon  as  the  ground  is  free  from  frost  in 
the  sprinor;  and  aflerwards,  at  intervals  of  two  weeks,  either  in 
drills  or  broadcast.  The  Scarlet  Short  Top  and  Long  Salmon 
are  the  best  kindf  for  early  planting.  When  the  weather  becomes 
hot,  the  Turnip-rooted  aorta  succeed  best." 

Rhubarb.  Rheum  rhapotdicum. — This  is  known  in 
many  sections  as  the  Pie-plant 

Wilmots's  Early  Scarlet,  Mammoth,  Tohohlc,  and  My- 
atfs  Victoria  are  either  worthy  of  attention.  Plants 
are  obtained  from  seed  or  portions  of  old  roots. — 
Whore  the  cnltivator  is  in  no  especial  hnrry  for  thefirst 
crop,  or  where  a  large  plantation  is  to  be  made,  the 


48 

former  method  is  preleiTed.  TUe  seed  bed  ^should  be 
made  of  a  light,  rich  soil  and  iuid  out  in  drills  one 
foot  apart.  Drop  the  seed  thinly  azid  cover  about 
one  inch  deep.  The  time  for  pl9.nting  ig  tlie  sanjie  ag 
that  of  Indian  Corn.  When  the  plants  are  two  inch- 
es high  thin  them  to  six  inches.  When  the  leaves  are 
withered  in  autumn  remove  them  to  their  permanen-f 
location. 

The  ground  should  be  manured  and  deeply  spaded. 
The  hills  should  be  laid  out  t\vo  and  a  half  feet  apart 
each  way.  Bury  the  crowns  two  inches  deep.  Vv^hen 
winter  approaches  mulch  with  coarse  manure.  Th  e 
third  year  from  the  seed  the  plants  will  do  to  crop  a 
little.  When  plantations  are  made  with  old  roots  pur- 
sue the  same  course  as  with  seedling  roots. 

''Rhubarb  Pie. — Take  the  young  stalks,  rempve  the  skin,  and 
cut  them  into  thin  slices.  Line  a  deep  plate  with  pie  crust,  ami 
put  in  the  rhubarb,  together  with,  layers  of  sugar.  Cov^r  the 
whole  with  a  thick  crust,  pressed  down  on  the  edges,  and  prjc^e^ 
by  a  fork.  Bake  for  about  an  hour  in  a  slow  oven.  Some  per- 
sons are  accustomed  to  stew  the  fruit  before  baking,  by  which 
means  a  greater  quantity  can  be  put  in  the  plate. 

Rhubarb  Jam. — Boil  gently,  for  three  honrs,  an  equal  weight 
of  fine  sugar  and  rhubarb  stalks.  The  juice  and  grated  rind  of  a 
lemon  to  each  pound  of  the  stalks,  will  correct  their  peculiar  fla- 
vor, which  is  unpleasant  to  some  persons." 

Sage.  SaMa  officinaUs.—Ti\e  Green,  and  the  Red  or 
Purple  are  most  esteemed  for  cooking;  the  JfSroad- 
leaved  Balsamic  for  medicines.  Select  a  dry,  mellow; 
spot  for  a  bed,  spade  it  deeply  and  in  May  when  the 
weather  becomes  warm,  sowtlie  seed  in  drills  ten  inch- 
es apart.  When  the  plants  are  two  inches  high  thi^i 
them  to  six  inches..  Those  drawn  may  be  transplant- 
ed. We  prefer  to  so\y  every  other  year,  thus  crop- 
ping only  seedlings  and  plants  oue  year  6ld.  Soiii;^ 
prefer  old  roots.  To  retiain  these  in  good  oitle^r  all 
that  is  necessary  is  to  give  them  a. 'slight  top-dressi»g 
and  stir  the  soil  about  the  rpots.  It  is  used  for  se.ar 
goning  meat.^  and  to  innk-p  -tlip  poy^nhir  hor1)  drink. 
'^spge  tea." 


49 

Salsi HV.  TiHv-jojjogmi  jHirnfoliuis. — Tiiiii;  plaut  is  known 
as  the*Vogetable  Oyster,  it  is  becoming  a  very  pop- 
ul/jir  v^getjjible.  The  ground  should  be  hght  and  rich 
nnd  spaded  deeply.  kSow  the  seed  thichii/  in  drills 
twelve  inches  apart  f\nd  one  inch  deep.  Thin  the 
plants  to  three  inches  and  stir  the  ground  frequently. 
Tbo.^e  wanted  for  spring  use  can  remahi  in  ground 
over  winter  the  same  fjis  parsnips. 

To  CooJc. — Cut  into  thin  slices,  soak  in  water  for 
thirty  minutes  then  boil  tender  in  milk  aiid  water. — 
^dd  pepper,,  salt,  butter  and  powdered  crackers. 
■  ■* Artificial  Oysters. — After  the  root  has  bkeen  ^eraped,  and  hid 
ih  water  for  several  roinutes,  in  order  to  abstract  a  part  of  its  bitr 
ter  flavor,  it  is  to  be  boiled  tender,  and  either  cut  in  thin  slices, 
ur  grated  and  pressed  into  little  c<ikcs,or  the  size  of  oysters.  Dip 
tl^e  slices,  or  cakes,  in,to  a  batter  m;ide  of  wheat  flour,  milk,  and 
eggs;  roll  them  in  crumbled  bieL'.d  or  crackers;  and  ihep  drop 
them  into  hot  lard.  When  of  a  light  brown  color,  ihey  are  suffi- 
ciently cooked,    and  ready  to  be  carried  to  the  table." 

Sa  vory.  tSdfureja. — There  are  two  species,  the  Sum- 
mer (S.  hortensis)  and  the  Winter  (S.  moiitana).  The 
fqrmer  is  an  annu3,l,  the  latter  a,  perennial.  The  Win- 
ter is  cultivated  the  same  as  Sage.  The  annual  is  raised 
by  sowing  it  moderately  thick  in  high  ground  in  drills 
fifteen  inches  apart.  The  leaves  should  he  gathered 
when  the  plant  is  in  blossom  and  dried  in,  a  cool  place, 

Sea-Kale.  Cranha  maritima  — The  seed  of  this  may  be  sown 
early  in  the  season  in  the  open  ground,  and  the  planis  kept  at  the 
distance  of  a  few  inches  apart  the  first  year.  They  should  then 
be  s.et  three  inches  djeep,  in  rows  3  feet  or  more  apart,  and  18 
iriches  apfirt  in  the  row  and  kept  iii  a  good  state  of  cuhivation  th?^t 
season.  In  the  fall  atler  the  leaves  have  died  away,  the  row 
should  be  covered  with  a  good  coat  of  manure  to  protect  them, 
from  frost  and  make  them  start  well  in  the  spring,  at  which  time 
the  manure  should  be  well  dug  into  the  ground  ind  the  crown  of 
the  plant  be  covered  with  dirt  to  the  depth  of  10  or  VZ  inches,  or 
with  inverted  pots,  to  bleach  the  leaves,  as  that, part  only  is  eaten 
which  grows  under  ground.  The  soil  should  be  a  light,  rich,  san- 
dy loam.     Salt  is  a  useful  fertilizer. — By  a  distinguished  sjai-diner. 

!r<^  ca(?i-.— Soak  the  stalks  in  water  for  thirty  minutes,  and  ti^ei: 
them  up  in  small  bundles.     Boil  them  very  tender,  over  a  brisk ^ 
fire,  v^ith  a  little  salt  in  the  pot;  drj^iri  off  the  water,  and  lay  (hefn 
on  a  slice  of  toast  which  has  been  moisteiied  iii'tKe  liquor.     Dfess 
with  melted  butter,  pepper  and  salt. 


50 

Shallot.  Al'ium  ascalcnicvm. —  It  is  a  6j~ «  cies  of  onion, 
cultivated  like  the  Potato  onion. 

Spinach,  or  Spin  age.  Spinaeia  oleracea.  — This  requires 
a  richer  soil  than  almost  any  other  culinary  vegetable, 
to  bring  it  to  perfection,  as  it  has  to  yield  frequent 
gatherings  or  cuttings,  and  therefore,  requires  a  re- 
peated developement  of  parts,  which  cannot  be  expec- 
ted without  an  abundance  of  food.  The  varieties 
mo^t  esteemed  are  the  Round-leaved  or  Summer,  the 
Prickly  or  Winter  and  the  New  Zealand.  The  latter  is 
best  for  very  dry  lands.  Sow  the  Round-le  aved  in 
April  in  deeply  trenched  ground  and  the  Winter  in 
August  or  September.  Thin  to  six  inches  and  water 
well  in  dry  weather.  When  the  cold  weather  sets  in 
it  should  ho,  covered  with  straw  to  protect  it  from  the 
sun,  and  from  freezing  and  thawdng.  It  is  used  for 
"greens." 

Squish.  Cucvrhiia  mclopepo. — FiRnt  in  May  in  hills  about  six 
fVet  apart,  and  the  soil  well  enriched  with  a  good  quantity  of  ret- 
ten  manure  or  compost  to  each  hill*  Sow  a  sufficiency  of  seed  to 
allow  for  loss  by  insocts.  'I'hree  dr  four  plants  are  enough  to 
leave  for  each  hill.  The  early  Scallop  or  Bush  squash  is  an  ex- 
cellent variety  for  i^immer  use.  Canada,  Winter  Crooknpck,  and 
Autumnal  Marrow,  are  considered  best  for  winter  use.  The  Mar- 
row must  be  planted  at  a  disianco  from  every  other  variety,  aa 
they  are  liable  to  rnix. 

Thyme.  Thymus  vidgari^, — There  are  two  varieties, 
the  Broad-leaved  and  the  Nahrciv.  It  is  best  suited  with 
a  poor  soil  that  i«  warm  and  exposed  to  the  sun.  Sow 
in  drills  six  inches  aparl  and  thin  to  six  inches  in  the 
drill.  The  after  treatment  is  the  same  as  Sage.  The 
leaves  should  be  gathered  when  the  plant  is  in  blos- 
som. It  is  highly  valued  as  a  seasoning  for  meats, 
soups  and  sauces. 

Tomato.  Solanum  lycopersicnm. — This  popular  ^og- 
etable  w^as  long  cultivated  as  an  ornament  to  the 
flower  garden,  under  the  name  of  Love  Apple.  It 
has  recently  acquired  a  very  high  reputation  as  a 
culinary  vegetable,  and  that  reputation  i«  Btill  exten- 
ding 


51 

The  tomato  comes  from  tlie  south  of  Europe  and 
therefore  requires  a  longer  season  to  niatui  e  it  than  \vc 
have  m  New  Hampshire.     People  usually  therefore 
resort  to  hot  beds  to  forward  early  plants.     Where 
they  have  not  this  convenience  plants  may  be  for- 
warded by  planting  seeds  in  pots  during  the  month  of 
March  and  placing  them  in  kitchen  windows  exposed 
to  the  sun.     When  the  plants  are  three  inches  higli 
they  should  be  transferred  to  small  pots,  one  plant  to 
a  pot.     W^hen  the  weather  becomes  warm,  the  middle 
or  last  of  May  the  ground  should  be  prepared.      It  is 
a  "gross  feeder"  and  requires  rich  soil.      The  rows 
should  be  five  feet  apatt  and  the  hills  five  feet  apart 
in  the  rows.     Dig  holes  eighteen  inches  deep  and  the 
same  distance  across.     Fill  them  with  well  rotted  ma- 
nure and  ashes  incorporated  with  rich  loam.      Over 
this  place  three  inches  of  good  earth  and  into  this 
transplant  the  plant.      Draw  a  little  earth  about  the 
stock  and  leave  the  ground  about  the  plant  a  little 
hollowing  to  retain   the  water.      When  the  plant  is 
fruiting  it  requires  a  large   amount  of  moisture. — 
Thorough  watering  at  this  time  hastens  the  ripening 
of  the  fruit.     Some  recommend  that  the  stalk  be  trel- 
lised  up;  others  that  bushes  be  laid  about  the  vines  that 
they  may  not  touch  the  ground;  but  we  have  always 
succeeded  best  wdien  we  have  let  the  vines  lay  upon 
the  ground.     Charcoal  laid  about  them  draws  the  sun 
and  causes  them  to  ripen  faster  than  they  otherwise 
would.     They  are  profuse  bearers.     We  have*  raised 
nearly  a  bushel  from  one  stock. 

To  plant  in  the  open  ground. — When  the  weather  be- 
comes warm  prepare  the  ground  as  above  directed  and 
plant  six  or  eight  seeds  in  each  hill.  When  the  plants 
are  an  inch  high  draw  all  but  two,  and  when  those 
are  three  inches  high  draw  one  of  them.  Afterwards 
pursue  the  same  treatment  as  for  those  raisec^in  a 
hotbed.  They  furnish  a  luscious  dish.  The  Large  Bed 
and  Large  Yellow  are  preferred  for  cooking;  ih^Pcar- 


52 

shaped,  and  Cherry  for  pickling.     They  aro  cooked  in 
var ions  ways.     We  oiler  the  following: 

*'2a  cook. — If  ihe  tomatoes  are  not  quite  ripe,di[  pina  them  mto 
hot  wrrt«er  will  loosen  their  sluns  so  that  they  may  bti  easily  peeled. 
Put  ihem  in  a  stew  pan,  together  with  a  table-spoonful  of  water, 
in  case  they  are  not  very  juicy.  Add  a  little  butter  und  salt,  and 
t?te\v  the  whole  for  half  an  hour." 

Another  ivay. — Take  nicely  pealed  tomatoes  tind  put 
a  layer  of  them  into  a  deep  dish.  Over  these  spread 
d  layer  of  powdered  crackers  or  dried  bread.  Piirsu  e 
this  cburse  putting  in  a  layer  of  tomatoes  then  a  lay- 
er of  bread  until  the  dish  is  full.  The  upper  layer 
should  be  of  bread.  Each  layer  should  be  seasoned 
with  butter,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  sugar.  Bake 
slowdy  for  two  horns.  Nothing  adds  more  to  their 
valtie  than  thorough,  cooking. 

"  Tomato  marmalade. — Gather  full-grown  tomatoes  when  quite 
green.  JStew  them  until  soft,  when  they  are  to  he  rubbed  through 
a  seive-  again  put  over  the  fire,  and  seasoned  higlily  with  pepper, 
salt,  and  powdered  cloves.  Let  the  pulp  stew  until  it  becomes 
very  thick.  '  It  will  then  keep  well,  and  be  excellent  for  season- 
ing gravies. 

Tomato  catsup. — To  one  quart  of  ripe  tomatoes,  put  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  black  pepper,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  good  mustard,  a  half-tablespoonful  of  all-spice,  and 
three  red  peppers  ground  fine.  Simmer  the  whole  together  with 
a  pint  of  vinegar,  in  a  tin  vessel,  slowly  for  three  hours.  Strain 
throuiih  a  seive.  Bottle  and  cork  titrht.  The  later  in  the  season 
it  is  made,  the  better  it  will  keep. 

To  preserve  for  winter  use. — Put  perfectly  ripe  fruit  in  a  stone 
pot,  or  a  glazed  earthen  jar,  and  cover  them  with  salt  and  water 
strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg.  Before  being  cooked,  they  ought 
to  be  soaked  in  fresh  water  for  several  hours. 

Another  receipt.. — Scald  the  ripe  fruit,  which  should  be  of  small 
size,  and,  after  the  skins  are  removed,  squeeze  them  slightly. — 

Spread  them  on  earthen  dishes,  which  are  to  be  placed  in  a 
brick  oven  after  the  bread  has  been  taken  out,  and  let  them  remain 
there  until  the  next  morning.  Then  put  them  in  bags,  and  keep 
them  in  a  dry  place.  The  tomatoes  are  in  the  best  condition  for 
preserving,  in  the  months  of  July  and  August.  Before  bein^ 
cooked,  soak  them  in  fresh  water  for  a  few  hours." — Gardener^ s 
Text-Book. 

T  URN  IP.     Brcmica  rapa. — This  is  a  very  valuable  veg- 
etable.    It  is  raised  on  light  soil,  but  yet  it  should  be 


rich.  The  While  Daichy  Red  Top^  Early  Garden  Stone, 
the  Yelloio  iind  the  Improced  Swedish^  are  the  best  va- 
rieties. Bone  dust  and  ashes  are  the  best  fertihzers 
for  the  Turnip.  Stir  the  ground  and  rake  it  smooth. 
Draw  drills  twelve  inches  apart  and  cover  the  seed 
one  half  inch  deep.  When  the  plants  are  one  inch 
high  thin  to  three  inches,  and  when  they  are  three 
inches  high  thin  to  six  inches.  The  ground  should  be 
fiequently  stirred.  Gather  the  winter  crop  before 
frosts,  and  place  in  a  dry,  cool  cellar. 

To  cook. — They  should  be  pared,  boiled  tender, 
drained,  mashed  up  and  seasoned  with  butter,  salt, 
and  pepper. 

WoR3iwooD. — Artemisia  Absinthium. 

Culture. — This  plant  is  best  suited  with  a  light,  dry  and  poor 
soil,  for  when  its  growth  becomes  very  luxuriant,  it  loses  a  good 
part  of  its  aroiiiatic  qualities,  and  is  less  able  to  endure  the  rigors 
of  winter.  It  is  propagated  by  seed,  as  well  as  by  slips  and  cut- 
tings. Sow  thinly  in  spring,  or  in  autumn  soon  after  the  seed  ri- 
pens. When  the  plants  have  attained  a  height  of  two  inches, 
thin  them  to  distances  of  six  inches  apart.  The  slips  and  cuttings 
are  to  be  taken  off  at  midsummer,  and  set  out  in  a  shaded  bor- 
der, in  rows  six  or  eight  inches  apart  each  way,  to  be  watered 
regularly  until  they  have  become  established.  Transplanting  to 
the  permanent  location,  is  to  be  performed  in  the  following  spring. 
Keep  the  ground  light  and  clean,  and  clear  away  the  dead  stalks 
in  autumn. 

Use. — Wormwood  is  cultivated  chiefly  for  medicinal  purposes. 


|lflfj«lliil< 

Production  OF  New  Varieties. — Some  of  our  choice 
fruits  have  been  mere  chance  productions,  but  by  far 
the  greater  part  of  those  valued  for  theif  great  beau- 
ty, size,  and  quahty,  are  produced  upon  scienEifc 
principles.  Two  celebrated  pomologists  have  devoted 
their  whole  lives  to  it.  They  had  different  theories. 
The  one  is  known  as  Dr.  Van  Mons'  Theory ,  the  oth- 
er as  Mr.  Knight's. 

D)\  Van  Mons'  Theory, — Dr.  Van  Mons,  a  Belgian; 
had  in  nurseries  in  1823,  no  less  than  two  thoiisand 
seedling  varieties  of  Pears  of  great  merit.  His  at- 
tention was  chiefly  directed  to  this  delicious  fruit, 
although  he  originated  numerous  excellent  seedlings 
of  other  kinds.  "All  fine  fruits  are  artificial  products; 
the  aim  of  nature,  in  a  \vild  state  being  only  a  healthy, 
vigorous  state  of  the  tree  and  perfect  seeds  for  contin- 
uing the  species.  It  is  the  object  of  culture,  there- 
fore, to  subdue,  or  enfeeble  this  excess  of  vegetation  ^ 
to  lessen  the  coarseness  of  the  tree  ;  to  diminish  the 
size  of  the  seeds ;  and  to  refine  the  quality  and  in- 
crease the  size  of  the  pulp."  These  objects  Dr.  A^an 
Mons  effected  by  sowing  and  re-sowing  seeds,  one  gen- 
eration after  another.  lie  selected  the  fruit  before 
fully  ripe,  from  yaung  trees  that  were  in  a  '^state  of 
variaiion^'  that  is,  a  garden  variety  and  not  a  wild  sort, 
and  when  the  fruit  rotted,  he  planted  them  in  nursery 
rows.  When  these  young  trees  came  into  bearing,  he 
gathered  the  fruit  in  the  same  condition  and  planted 
again.  Each  generation  came  into  bearing  earlier  than 
the  former  one,  the  fifth  sowing  fruiting  the  third  year 
from  the  seed.  The  fifth  generation  of  seedlings 
were  nearly  all  of  great  merit.     In  this  v^^ay  were  pro- 


55 


traced  tlie  Beurre  Diel,,  De  Louvain  and  other  well 
known  varieties.  But  it  requires  so  long  a  time  in 
this  country,  to  carry  tliis  sj'Stem  out,  that  most  hor- 
ticulturahsts  have  been  deterred  from  pursuing  it. — 
The  climate  of  Belgium  is  much  more  favorable  to  it. 
Mr.  Knighfs  Theon/. — This  is  the  process  almost  in- 
variably pursued  by  successful  horticulturalists  of  the 
present  day,  and  is  much  preferred  in  this  country, 
where  so  long  a  time  is  required  to  perfect  a  tree 
and  bring  it  into  bearing.  It  consists  in  sowing  cross 
hred  seeds.  Tbese  are  produced  in  this  way:  blossoms 
■of  fruit  trees,  and  of  most  plants,  contain  stamens  and 
pistils,  which  are  the  male  and  female  parents  of  the 
new  seed.  By  examining  the  flower  of  the  Cherry, 
for  instance,  it  will  be  perceived  that  there  is  a  por- 
tion in  the  centre  directly  connected  with  the  young 
fruit,  which  has  a  slight  expansion  at  the  top.  This 
stem-like  substance  is  called  the  pistil  or  female  parent, 
and  the  expansion  at  the  top  the  stirjma.  Around  the 
pistil  are  numerous  threads  called  stamens  and  at  their 
summit  are  little  substances  called  anthers  which  se- 
crete the  poll-en  or  fertilizing  dust.  To  produce  a  new 
variety,  select  a  flower  that  you  intend  shall  be  the 
female  parent  of  the  new  kind,  and  as  soon  as  it  be- 
gins to  expand,  cut  out  the  stamens  with  a  pair  of 
scissors,  using  care  not  to  injure  the  other  parts.  Af- 
ter this,  cover  the  flower  with  gauze  to  keep  put  the 
bees.  When  the  stamens  of  the  other  plant  are  grown 
and  the  anthers  matured,  which  may  be  determined  by 
their  being  covered  with  dust  or  pollen^  remove  them 
and  after  removing  the  gauze  from  the  other  flower, 
give  it  a  twirl  over  it  so  that  the  fertilizing  dust  shall 
touch  the  pistil.  Whep.  the  fruit  ripens  save  the  seeds 
of  the  blossoms  thus  treated  and  plant  them.  The 
trees  produced  will  bear  a  fruit  different  from  either 
of  the  parent-trees,  yet  having  some  points  of  resem- 
blance to  both.  Thus,  Coe's  Golden  Drop  Plum  was 
cross  between  the  MagnumBonum  or  Egg-Plum  andtiie 
Green  Gage;  and  the  Elton  Cherry  was  raised  from  a 


56 

cross  bred  seed  of  the  Bigarreau  and  Wliite  Heart.— 
This  process  has  been  carried  to  an  ahnost  iinhmited 
extent  with  flowers. 

Grafting  and  Budding. — Having  obtained  a  vahia- 
ble  variety  of  fruity  it  becomes  desirable  to  propagate 
it,  but  as  this  cannot  be  done  by  sowing  the  seeds,  we 
are  oblio-ed  to  resort  to  some  other  methods.  Those 
usually  practised  are  grafting  and  budding.  There 
are  several  ways  of  performing  the  former,  usually 
called,  cleft,  splice,  tongue  and  saddle  grafting. 

The  best  time  for  grafting  is  when  the  buds  begin 
to  swell,  say  from  the  first  of  April  to  the  first  of 
June.  Stone  fruit  should  be  grafted  a  little  earlier, 
as  the  bark  is  inclined  to  peel  and  roll  vfhen  the  wood 
is  growing.  Some  recommend  that  grafts  be  inserted 
into  the  cherry  and  plum,  while  the  frost  is  in  the 
ground."  Budding  is  more  successful  than  grafting 
with  stone  fruit.  Scions  for  stone  fruit  should  not  be 
kept  long  before  setting.  Scions  for  other  kinds  of 
fruit  may  be  cut  any  time  during  winter,  or  in  the 
spring  before  the  buds  swell.  They  should  be  closely 
packed  in  saw-dust  and  put  a  way  in  some  dark,  cool 
place.  Care  should  be  taken  that  they  are  not  ke])t 
too  damp,  as  it  causes  premature  groAtth,  or  spoils 
them  by  satm^ation. 

Grafting  Wax. — Take  two  pounds  beeswax  and  four 
pounds  good  rosin,  and  melt  them  together;  then  add 
one  pound  good  beef  tallow  and  mix  the  whole  thor- 
oughly. Turn  the  composition  into  a  tub  of  watei' 
to  cool  it  sufiiciently  so  that  it  may  be  v^'orked.  Pull 
it  until  it  presents  a  light  color,  ilnother  wax  may 
be  made  by  mi^:ing  one  pint  linseed  oil,  one  pound 
beeswax,  and  six  pounds  of  ftesin,  and  pursuing  the 
course  as  above  directed. 

Grafting  Clay. — This  is  made  l^y  mixing  iwo  parts 
of  good  blue  ch\y  with  one  part  of  fresh  horse-dung, 
addiiig  a  little  hair  as  in  mortar.  It  is  sometimes 
necessary  to   add  a  \^r\  small  portion  of  sand.     It 


>i 


Cleft  GrafUng, 


should  be  thorouglily  ^\'oike(l  daily.-  s^overal  days  pre- 
vious to  use. 
Fig.  4. 

Cleft  Gilifting. — This  is  the  method 
used  m  changing  the  lieads  of  large  trees, 
and  of  stocks  one  or  more  inches  in  diam- 
eter. Select  some  place  free  of  knots 
and  saw  the  limb  off  with  a  sharp  fine 
toothed  saw,  and  smooth  the  end  remain- 
mg  with  a  knife.  A  cleft  should  be  made 
.about  one  and  a  half  or  two  inches  deep, 
with  a  hammer  and  a  splitting  knife. — 
Now  select  a  scion  from  the  last  years  growth  that  is 
full  and  well'ripened,  and  with  a  very  sharp  knife 
vslope  it  in  the  shape  of  a  wedge,  from  one  to  one  and 
a  half"  inches  long,  making  the  outside  a  little  thicker 
than  the  inside.  With  a  chisel^open  the  split  in  the 
stock  and  insert  it  so  that  the  inner  barks  of  the  scion 
and  the  stock  shall  come  together.  When  .the  stock 
is  large  insert  two  scions  as  in  Figure  (4).  After  this, 
Fig,  5.  spread  grafting  wax  over  the  top  of  the 
stock  and  over  the  cleft  or  out  side  of  the 
scion,  so  as  to  exclude  the  air  and  water. 
When  the  stock  does  not  close:;^up  firmly 
upon  the  scion,  it  is  necessary  to  bind  it  up 
with  cloth  dipped  in  melted  grafting  wax. 
Scarfing  the  Stock. — Wheji  only  one 
scion  is  used  in  a  small  stock,  it  is  well  to 
scarf  off  the  side  of  the  stock  opposite  to 
it  and  cover  with  wax  as  before.  It  heals 
very  much  sooner  and  presents  a  much 
"more  neat  appearance. 

Splice-grafting. — This  is  done  very  neatly  and  perfectly,  upon 
stocks  which  are  of  the  exact  size  of  the  scion.  Cut  off  the  stock, 
with  an  upward  slant  of  an  inch  or  niore,in  length,  and  the  scion 
with  a  similar  downward  slant;  tie  the  two  firmly  together  with 
bass-matting,  always  fitting  their  inner  barks,  or  sap-vessels,  Jto 
each  other;  next,  cover  the  joint  with  wax  or  clay,  and  you  have 
performed  one  of  the  neatest  and  surest  modes  of  grafting  yet 
(known. 


A  Scarfed  Stock 


58 

'When  the  stock  is  brger  than  the  scion,  the  latter  must  be  fit- 
*ie<.l  to  one  side  of  the  former. 

^It  is  often  more  convenient  in  practice,  to  fo7ig-we  the  stock  and 
scion  together,  that  is,  to  cut  a  corresponding  notch  or  slit  in  each, 
and  then  fit  the  two  carefully  together,  tying  and  claying  or  wax- 
ing the  joint,  as  before. 

Small  stocks-  taken  up  in  the  fall  and  kept  in  a  cellar,  are  often 
gi'afted  in  winter,  by  the  tire-side,  in  either  of  the  abovif-desctbed 
modes,  and  then  kept  in  the  cellar  until  spring. 

Saddh-grafling. — When  the  stock  and  scion  are  of  about  the 
same  size,  the  operation  may  be  reversed,  the  cleft  being  made  in 
the  scion,  and  the  stock  wedge-shaped  and  fitted  into  it.  This 
mode  is  called  saddle-grafting.  A  little  wood  should  be  pared 
out,  on  each  inner  side  of  the  clelt  of  the  scion,  so  as  to  fit  it  bet- 
ter to  the  stock. — G.  Jaques. 

Budding. — This  is  always  an  ensy  and  convenient  method  of 
working  small  stocks.  It  is  usually  performed,  in  the  latter  part 
of  summer,  although  it  mat/  be  done  late  in  the  spring;  but  it  is 
not  advisable  to  resort  to  budding  in  the  spring,  except  where  we 
have  a  very  valuable  scion,  which  we  wish,  by  subdividing,  to  in- 
crease the  chances  of  saving.  In  this  case,  we  may  cut  off  the 
buds  of  the  scion,  and  insert  them  separately,  in  the  manner 
which  we  are  about  to  describe,  waiting  of* course  til!  tho  sap  of 
the  stock  is  in  full  motion.  We,  in  this  latitude,  (Worcester,) 
commence  budding  Plums,  Cherries,  Apricots  and  Pears,  the  lat- 
ter part  of  July.  From  the  middle  of  August  to  the  middle  of 
September,  is  the  season  for  Apples.  From  the  first  to  the  mid- 
dle of  September,  is  better  than  earlier,  for  Peaches  and  Nectar- 
ines. It  is  essential  to  success, — ^Ist  71iat  the  bark  ef  the  stock 
:>hould  part  freely  from  the  wood;  for  whenever,  either  from  the 
season  of  the  year  or  the  feeble  condition  of  the  stock,  the  bark 
Fra    i\  adheres  to  the  wood,  the  operation    will   certain- 

ly prove  a  failure.  2d.  The  bud  which  is  to  be 
inserted,  should  be  well  ripened;  otherwise  it  will 
not  have  vital  euei-gy  sufficient  to  establish  itself, 
in  its  new  location. — JY.  E.  FriiH  Trees. 

"Before  commencing  you  should  provide  your- 
self with  a  buddiug  knife,  (about  four  and  a  half 
inches  long,)  having  a  rounded  blade  at  one  end, 
and  an  ivory  handle  terminating  in  a  thin  round- 
ed edge  called  the  haft,  at  the  other. 

In  choosing  your  buds,  select  thrifty  shootg 
that  have  nearly  done  growing,  and  prepare  what 
is  called  a  stick  of  buds,  Fig.  6,  by  cutting  off  a 
few  of  the  imperfect  buds  at  the  lower,  and  such 
as  may  yet  be  too  soft  at  the  upper  ends,  leaving 

only  smoothe,  well  developed,  single  buds;  ddu- 
Siock   of  Buds,    ^jg  j^j^jg  ^^-       j.^,^^^  j^^^^_^^     ^^^^   ^ff  ^^Q   hAV^s, 


allowing  about  half  an  inch  of  th6y(y<;^.s•/o//,s  to  remaia  forconren- 
iently  inserting  the  buds.  Some  strands  of  bass-matting  about 
twelve  or  fourteen  inches  long,  previously  soaked  in  water  fo  ren- 
der them  sot't  and  pliable,  (^or  in  the  absence  of  these  some  soft 
woollen  yarn,)  must  a'so  be  at  hand  for  tying  the  buds." — Down^ 


Figs.  7 


8 


10 


]]. 


Figure  7 


Stock  prepared  for  the  bud. 

8,  Bud  with  the  wood  taken  out. 

9,  Bud  with  the  wood  in. 

"     10,  Stock  with  the  bud  inserted. 

^'     11,  The  bud  bound  in  with  bass  matting. 

American  shield  budding. — ''Having  your  stick  of  buds  ready, 
choose  a  smoothe  portion  of  the  stock.  When  the  latter  is  smalP, 
let  it  be  near  the  ground,  and,  if  equally  convenient,  select  also 
the  north  side  of  the  stock,  as  less  exposed  to  the  sun.  Make  an 
upright  incision  in  the  bark  from  an  inch  to  an  inch  and  a  half 
long,  and  at  the  top  of  this  make  a  cross  cut,  so  that  the  whole  shall 
form  a  T,Fig.  7.  From  the  stick  of  buds,  your  knife  being  very 
sharp,  cut  a  thin,  smooth  slice  of  wood  and  bark  containing  a 
bud,  Fig.  9.  With  the  ivory  haft  of  your  budding  knife,  now 
raise  the  bark  on  each  side  of  the  incision  just  wide  enough  to  ad- 
mit easily  the  prepared  bud.  Taking  hold  of  the  footstalk  of  the 
leafj  insert  the  bud  under  the  bark,  pushing  it  gently  down  to  the 
bottom  of  the  incision.  If  the  upper  portion  of  the  bud  projects 
above  the  horizontal  part  of  the  T,  cut  it  smoothly  off  now,  so  the^t 
it  may  completely  fit, Fig.  10.  A  bandage  of  the  soft  matting  is  now 
tied  pretty  firmly  over  the  whole  wound.  Fig.  11,  commencing  at 
the  bottom,  and  leaving  the  bud,  and  the  footstalk  of  the  leaf  on- 
ly exposed  to  the  light  and  air." — Downing. 

The  European  method  of  preparing  buds  is  some- 
what different.     Having  cut  it  out  as  in  Fig.  ^,  take 


CO 

tlie  bud  between  the  forefinger  and  thumb,  enter  the 
point  of  the  knife  blade  under  the  wood  at  the  lower 
extremity,  then  raise  and  draw  out  the  wood  by  ben- 
ding it  up  and  doAvn  until  it  loosens  from  the  bark. — 
There  should  be  a  small  portion  of  wood  remaining 
at  the  heart  of  the  bud  or  it  is  worthless.  This  course 
is  not  recommended  by  American  Fruit-growers  on 
account  of  our  hot,  dry  summers. 

Fio,  12, 

After  Management. — In  two  or  three  weeks 
after  inserting  the  bud,  it  can  be  ascertain- 
ed, whether  or  not,  it  has  taken,  by  its 
freshness  and  plumpness.  If  it  has  not, 
and  the  bark  still  peels,  another  may  be 
inserted.  In  about  four  weeks  after  bud- 
ding, the  matting  may  be  removed.  In 
the  spring  when  the  bud  begins  to  swell, 
Crowin^r  Bud.  ^^^^  stock  Can  bc  cut  off  within  two  or 
three  inches  of  it.  When  the  bud  starts, 
all  ^^robber"  shoots  should  be  trimmed  off,  to  produce 
a  vigorous  growth.  When  the  bud  has  grown  three 
inches  it  may  be  tied  to  the  stock  to  insure  an  upright 
tree.  The  last  of  July  the  remaining  portion  of  the. 
stock  may  be  cut  off  as  marked  Fig.  1 2,  a. 

Propagating  ly  Outiings. — The  Currant,  the  Goose- 
berry, the  Vine,  the  Quince  and  the  Fig,  are  the  chief 
fruits  propagated  in  this  way.  The  wood  should  be, 
of  the  last  years  growth  and  well  ripened.  Select  stocks 
about  one  foot  long,  and  if  it  is  desired  to  raise  stocks 
without  suckers,  cut  out  the  buds  as  far  as  you  insert 
them  into  the  ground,  which  should  be  about  two 
thirds  of  their  length.  Cuttings  require  a  deep,  rich, 
moist  soil,  and  are  more  successful  when  planted  on 
the  North  side  of  a  fence  or  wall,  and  heavily  mulch- 
ed. The  proper  time  for  putting  out  cuttings  is  ear- 
ly in  the  spring.  They  should  be  cut  from  the  pa- 
rent stock  in  the  last  part  of  winter  and  kept  in  mod- 
erately moist  loam. 


61 

f  IG.   1 0.  Propagdion  by   Layers, — liayer- 

ing    is  performed     by    bending 
some  of  the  stocks  down,  and  con- 
fining them  by   a   Uttle   hooked' 
%?^%  or   a   stick   drove   into   the 
'^'^  groimd    obliquely.       Cover    the 

stock  two  or  three  inches  deep  with  good  rich  earth. 
Some  nurserymen  cut  little  notches  or  tongues  on  the 
under  side  of  the  twigs  bent ;  others  twist  the  limb 
so  as  to  cause  the  bark  and  wood  to  crack.  Mulch 
them  thoroughly,  and  when  the  roots  have  taken  hold, 
the  layer  should  be  separated  from  the  stock. 

SucJcers. — When  it  is  desirable  to  retain  a  seedling 
fruit  upon  its  own  stock,  suckers  may  he  used.  They 
do  not  make  good  stocks  to  graft  or  bud  upon,  as  the j 
are  liable  to  produce  a  large  amount  of  suckers. — 
Raspberries  and  Blackberries  are  propagated  in  this 
way. 

Stocks  for  Grafting.'— ^'"li  is  generally  best  to  raise 
stocks  of  all  kinds  of  fruit  trees,  from  seeds.  In  the 
cultivation  of  the  apple,  the  pear,  and  also  of  the 
plum  and  the  cherry,  5'?/c^^--stocks  should  be  carefully 
avoided,  unless  no  others  can  be  procured." 

Apple  Seedling  StocJcs  may  be  raised  by  planting 
pomace,  in  autumn,  as  soon  as  it  can  be  obtained  from 
the  cider-mill.  It  should  be  before  fermentation  takes 
place.  That  from  young  trees  is  preferred.  Sow  in 
drills  four  feet  apart  and  cover  one  inch  deep.  Keep 
the  plants  clear  of  weeds  during  the  next  summer. — ■ 
If  the  soil  is  sufficiently  rich,  the  plants  will  be  large 
enough  the  second  or  third  spring,  to  remove  to  the 
nursery  row.  Their  tap  roots  should  be  shortened, 
and,  the  stocks  planted  one  foot  apart,  with  four  feet 
between  the  rows.  If  they  are  thrift};^  and  make  a 
good  growth,  they  may  be  budded  the  following  au- 
tumn. AU  small  seedlings  should  be  thrown  away.— 
The  soil  in  the  nursery  should  be  deep  and  rich. 

*Tear  stocks  ma^j  be   raised   from  seed,   precisely  in  the  mode 


62 

we  have  described  for  Apple  seedlings,  only  let  the  soil  be  deep^f 
and  richer.  But  the  climate  of  New  England  is  not  well  adapted 
to  their  growth,  and  it  is  not,  therefore,  advisable  lo  attempt  to 
raise  them,  so  long  as  the  foreign  stocks  can  be  so  cheaply  pur- 
chased of  importing  houses,  in  Boston  or  New  York. 

Cherry  stocks  are  generally  {raised  from  seeds  of  the  common 
Black  Mazzard  cherry.  Gather  the  fruit  when  it  is  fully  ripe, 
and  sow  it  immediately  in  drills,  covering,  &lc.,  precisely  as  direc^ 
ted  for  the  apple-seedlings. 

Pfum-stocks  may  be  had  of  the  importers,  or  they  may  be  rais- 
ed from  the  seeds  of  any  free  growing  kinds,  in  the  san^e  way  as 
cherry-stocks,  (avoiding  the  seeds  of  the  damsons,  as  they  are  not 
easily  budded.)  A  rich,  heavy,  moist  soil  suits  the  plum  best." — 
Jaques. 

Peach  Stocks  are  raised  by  planting  tlie  stones  in 
the  spring,  about  the  time  that  corn  is  planted.  They 
should  be  gathered  in  the  fall,  and  kept  in  sand  in  the 
cellar,  or  covered  in  the  ground  until  wanted  for  plant- 
ing, when  they  should  be  taken  up  and  cracked  wdtb 
a  hammer,  alid  planted  in  drills  the  same  as  apples. — 
The  following  autumn  they  should  be  budded,  If  the 
buds  do  not  live,  the  stocks  should  be  cut  down  to 
the  ground  in  the  spring,  and  one  shoot  permitted  ta 
grow  which  should  be  budded  the  following  au- 
tumn. 

Quince  Stocks  may  be  raised  from  cuttings  or  seed. 
When  from  the  latter  pursue  the  same  course  as  w^ith 
apples. 

Taking  up  Trees. — Much  of  the  success  attending 
transplanting  depends  lipon  this  operation.  It  should 
be  borne  in  mind,  that  a  tree  is  a  thing  of  life,  and 
should  be  treated  accordingly.  If  it  is  convenient, 
it  is  desirable  to  preserve  all  the  roots  and  fibres  wdiol^, 
but  as  this  cannot  be  done,  especially,  where  the  treeR 
stand  in  nurseries,  it  should  be  the  aim  of  every  on^^ 
taking  them  up  to  do  it  as  carefully  as  possible.  The 
fibrous  roots  are  all  important,  as  it  is  through  these 
that  the  tree  receives  its  nourishment  from  the  ground. 
We  have  seen  people  in  performing  this  operation, 
use  great  care  to  preserve  the  large  roots,  but  break 
off  the  small,  fibrous  ones  as  though  they  were  entire- 


6^ 


o 


ly  useless.  Nothing  could  be  more  fatal  than  this 
usage.  After  the  tree  is  taken  up,  all  bruised  places 
should  be  smoothly  pared  with  a  knife,  and  the  ends 
of  the  roots  that  have  been  broken,  trimmed  off.  If 
the  tree  is  not  set  out  immediately,  it  should  be  heel- 
ed in  ;  that  is,  there  should  be  a  trench  dug  and  the 
trees  laid  in,  in  horizontal  position,  so  that  loam  can 
be  worked  in  among  the  roots  sufficiently  to  exclude 
air.  Trees  are  frequently  kept  so  for  months  before 
transplanting. 

Tramplantiiuf. — This  is  one  of  the  most  important 
operations  performed  by  the  fruit-grower,  and  one 
too,  that  is  oftener  pertbrmed  amiss,  than  any  other. 
The  ground  should  be  well  prepared  by  plowing  and 
subsoiling  and  a  thorough  cultivation  of  a  root  crop, 
the  year  previous  to  transplanting.  Having  the 
ground  in  good  condition,  commence  by  preparing 
the  place  to  set  the  tree.  Eemove  the  soil  from  it, 
from  four  to  eight  feet  in  diameter,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  tree  to  be  set,  and  place  it  in  a  pile  by  it- 
self; then  remove  the  subsoil  to  a  pile  by  itself  also. 
Make  a  little  mound  in  the  centre  with  sods  and  rot- 
ted tarf,  and  place  the  tree  upon  it.  Be  extremely 
Cctreful  not  to  have  it  too  deep.  This  is  the  error  of 
most  g-ardeners.  The  loss  of  more  than  one  half  of 
the  trees  that  die  is  attributable  to  this  error  alone. — 
The  tree  should  not  be  set  any  deeper  than  it  stood 
in  the  nursery.  The  roots  should  be  straightened  out 
into  their  original  positions,  and  then  some  fine  loam 
scattered  upon  them.  It  is  well  to  put  about  the 
roots^  but  not  so  as  to  touch  them,  a  little  old  and  well 
rotted  manure,  or  a  compost  made  of  two  parts  of 
peat  and  one  of  stable  manure,  which  had  been  incor- 
porated the  year  previous.  Fallow  soil  answers  a  ve- 
ry good  purpose.  As  you  proceed,  work  the  soil  about 
the  roots,  so  that  it  shall  touch  them  in  every  part, 
otherwise,  they  mould  and  decay.  Be  careful  to 
save  all  the  fibrous  roots  as  it  is  through  these  that  the 
tree  receives  nourishment.     Occasionally  mix  in  a  lit- 


u 

tie  of  the  subsoil,  but  reserve  the  iBOst  of  it  for  fin- 
ishing  off  about  the  tree,  where  it  is  enriched  by  culti- 
vation and  exposure  to  the  a^^nd  frosts.  When  the 
place  is  nearly  filled,  pour  in^^ailfiil  of  water,  and 
let  it  settle  about  the  roots.  Level  the  ground  about 
the  tree  and  press  the  soil  with  the  feet.  Be  careful 
not  to  lift  the  tree  up  and  down  during  the  process  of 
transplanting,  thinking  thereby  to  fix  the  soil  more 
firmly  about  the  roots,  for  it  is  a  pernicious  practice; 
treading  with  the  feet  is  sufficient. 

The  proper  time  for  transplanting  is  in  the  fall,  af- 
ter the  tree  has  done  grovvdng,  and  is  in  a  dormant 
state,  say  from  the  last  of  September  to  the  middle  of 
October  ;  or  early  in  the  spring  before  the  sap  is  in 
active  circulation.  The  latter  time,  is  undoubtedly 
much  the  more  favorable  season  for  New  Hampshire, 
Tender  trees  like  the  Peach,  Apricot,  ^c„  should  al- 
ways be  transplant  ofl  in  fhc^  '•^pri.vi". 
Fig,  14. 

Lcdick. — When  a  tree  is 
transplanted,  and  budded  or 
grafted,  it  should  be  labelled. 
It  is  vexations  to  loose  the 
name  of  a  fruit,  as  a  person 
will  frequently  do,  if  he  trusts  to  memory.  Many  a 
nurseryman  has  found  this  out  to  his  loss.  Where 
the  fruit  stands  in  rows  a  stick  labelled  with  its  name 
may  be  placed  at  the  head  of  the  row,  and  answer  for 
all  the  trees  in  it.  Where  this  is  not  the  case,  there 
must  be  a  label  for  each  tree.  A  cheap  way  of  ma- 
king them,  is  to  take  thin  pieces  of  pine  wood,  paint 
them  with  wliite  lead  paint,  and  write  the  name  up- 
on it  with  a  black  lead  pencil  while  the  paint  is  yet 
undried.  These  may  be  attached  to  the  tree  with 
small  ir(m  or  copper  wire.  As  the  tree  enlarges,  loos- 
en the  wire  so  that  it  shall  not  girdle  it.  Fig.  14  is  a 
sample  of  this  kind  of  label.  Another  way  is  to  cut 
the  number  in  the  bark,  or  attach  a  piece  of  lead  or 
j^iinc.  stamped  wifb  tlif  number,   and  keep   the   num- 


bei*s  with  the  name  of  the  fruit  annexed,  m  a  small 
memorandum  book.  A  little  time  spent  in  this  way 
saves  much  troublai^ij^f  it  is  desirable  to  increase 
any  kind  of  fruit.     ^^^ 

P)'uning-"y ery  compact  tops  muy  need  thinning.  Be  cautious  about 
going  into  a  tree  to  prune  with  hard  boots  or  shoes  on,  when  the 
bark  peels.  Use  a  tine  saw  for  iarge  brunches,  then  pare  srnooth- 
Iv.  Various  applications  are  made  where  large  limbs  are  cut. — 
Grafting  composition,  also  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  clay  and 
cow  manure,  are  used  for  large  wj.unds  from  cutting  of  limbs  and 
injuries.  Alcohol,  with  as  much  shellac  dissolved  in  it  as  will 
make  it  of  the  consistence  of  paint*,  applied  with  a  painter's  brush 
is  excellent.  It  excludes  the  air  and  water,  and  is  unaffected' by 
change  of  weather. 

Many  prune  in  the  spring'^'from  custom,  and  others  in  Jnne  be- 
cause the  wound  heals  quickly,  not  reflecting  th.^^;  it  is  of  more 
importance  that  the  w».  und  heal  soundly  than  quickly.  We  give 
directions  according  to  our  experience  for  30  years. 

Slight  pruning,  in  which  very  small  limbs,  or  dead  limbs  of  any 
size,  a.''e  removed,  may  be  performed  when  most  convenient,  in 
any  season.  Moderate  pruning  should  be  done  in  June,  July  or 
August,  though  it  will  answer  very  well  till  Dec.  If  trees  are 
pruned  in  Jyly,  Aug,,  or  September,  the  wood  will  become  hard, 
sound,  and  well  seasoned,  aiid  commence^  healing  over;  and  it  is 
not  material,  otherwise  than  for  appearance,  whether  it  heals  ov- 
er the  first,  second,  or  third  year,  as  it  will  remain  in  a  healthy 
state. 

We  should  prefer  Oct.,  I^ov.,  or  even  Dec,  to  the  spring, 
which  is  the  worst  season.  The  trees  ther?  are  full  of  sap,  and  it 
oozes  out  at  the  wound,  which  turns  black  and  decays,  like  a  tree 
cut  in  the  spring,  and  allowed  to  retain  the  baik.  But  if  limba, 
ever  so  large,  are  cut  in  Aug.  and  Sept.,  the  wood  will  become 
hard  and  remain  so,  if  it  never  heals  over." 

"Side  shoots  of  young  or  nursery  trees  should  not  be  cut  off  at 
first,  as  it  will  induce  weakness  in  the  stem,  the  trees  will  bend 
over,  and  staking  cannot  save  them.  The  only  remedy  is  to  cut 
them  off,  and  let  them  start  anew." — iS.  PF.  Cole. 

Training. — This  is  not  much  practiced  in  this  State 
but  might  undoubtedly  be  made  serviceable  in  orna- 
menting grounds  and  also  in  producing  some  kinds  of 
fruits  in  greater  abundance.  There  are  several  meth- 
ods in  use.  The  Horizontal  is  adapted  to  training  ap- 
ples, pears,  grapes,  &c.;  the  Fan^  grapes,  peaches,  ap- 
ricots, plums,  figs,  &c.;  and  the  Pjframidal  and  Que^ 
mnelle  to  penrs. 


G6 

^'Horizontal  training  consisis  in  \^reser\ing  an  upright  leader, 
with  lateral  shoots  trained  at  regular  intervals.  These  intervals 
may  be  from  a  foot  to  eighteen  incJ|^lor  pears  and  apples,  and 
about  nine  inches  for  cherries  and^^B|b*'  *A  maiden  plant  with 
three  shoots  having  been  procured,  i^^wo  side  shoots  are  laid  ia 
horizontally,  and  the  centre  one  upright,  all  the  buds  being  rub- 
bed off  the  latter  but  three,  viz  ,  one  next  the  t(ip  for  a  vertical 
leader,  and  one  on  each  side  near  the  lop,  for  horizontal  branches. 
In  the  course  of  the  first  summer  after  planting,  the  sjioots  may 
be  allowed  to  grow  without  being  stopped.  In  the  autumn  of  the 
first  year  the  two  laterals  produced  are  nailed  or  tied  in,  and  also 
the  shoots  produced  from  the  extremities  of  the  lower  laterals; 
the  centre  shoot  being  headed  down  as  before.  But  in  the  second 
summer,  when  the  main  shoot  has  attained  the  length  of  ten  or 
twelve  inches,  it  may  be  stopped;  which,  if  the  plant  is  in  proper 
vigor,  will  cause  it  to  throw  out  two  horizontal  branches,  in  addi- 
tion to  those  which  were  thrown  out  from  those  of  the  preceding 
year.  The  trie  will  now  be  in  its  second  summer,  and  will  have 
four  horizontal  branches  on  each  side  of  the  upright  stem,  and  by 
persevering  in  this  system  four  horizontal  branches  will  be  produc- 
ed in  each  year  till  the  tree  reaches  the  top  of  the  wall  (or  espa- 
lier,) when  the  upright  stem  must  terminate  in  two  horizontal 
branches." 

'^ Fan- training, — A  maiden  plant  (a  tree  but  one  year  from  the 
graft,)  being  planted  'is  to  be  headed  down  to  four  buds  or  eyes, 
placed  in  such  a  manner  as  to  throw  out  two  shoots  on  each  side. 
The  following  season  the  two  uppermost  shoots  are  to  be  headed 
down  to  three  eyes,  placed  in  such  a  manner  as  to  throw  out  one 
leading  shoot,  and  one  shoot  on  each  side;  the  two  lowermost 
shoots  are  to  be  heade^  down  to  two  eyes,  so  as  to  throw  out  one 
leading  shoot,  and  one  shoot  on  the  uppermost  side.  We  have 
now  five  leading  shoots  on  each  side,  well  placed,  to  form  our  fu- 
ture tree.  Each  of  these  shoots  must  be  placed  in  the  exact  po- 
sition in  which  it  is  to  remain;  and  as  it  is  these  shoots  which  are 
to  form  the  future  tree,  none  of  them  are  to  be  shortened.  The 
tree  should  by  nolneans  be  suffered  to  bear  any  fruit -this  year. 
Each  shoot  must  now  be  allowed  to  produce,  besides  the  leading 
shoot  at  its  extremity,  two  other  shoots  on  the  uppermost  side,  one 
near  the  bottom  and  one  about  midway  up  the  stem;  there  must 
also  be  one  shoot  on  the  undermost  side,  placed  about  midway  be- 
tween the  other  two.  All  the  other  shoots  must  be  pinched  off  in 
their  infant  state.  From  this  time  it  may  be  allowed  to  bear  what 
crop  of  fruit  the  gardener  thinks  it  able  to  carry;  in  determining 
which,  he  ought  never  to  overrate  the  viaor  of  the  tree.  All  of 
these  shoots,  excepting  the  leading  ones,  must  at  the  proper  sea- 
son be  shortened,  but  to  what  length  must  he  left  entirely  to  the 
judgment  of  the  gardener,  it  of  course  depending  upon  the  vigor 
of  the  tree.  \n  shortening  the  shoot,  care  should  be  taken  to  cut 
*jack  to  a  wood  bud  that  will    produce    a  shool    for  the    following 


67 

yeSr.     Cm  close  to  the  bud,  so  that  tlie  wound   may  he-il  the  fol- 
lovving  season." 

**In  nailintr  to  a  wall,  care  must  be  t;ikcri  not  to  bruise  any  p;irt 
of  the  shoot;  the  wounds  mjBe  by  tiie  knife  heal  quickly,  but  a 
bruise  often  proves  incural?!^  Never  let  a  4mil  gall  any  part  of 
the  tree;  it  will  endanger  the  life  of  thfi  branch.  In  nailing-in 
the  young  shoots,  dispose  them  as  straight  and  regular  as  possi- 
ble;  it  will  look  workman-like." — Suburban  Horticulturalist . 

'•QvencuiUc  Trmn'mg. — To  produce  Quenouille  standards, plant 
a  young  tree,  three  or  four  feei  high,  and,  after  the  first  summer's 
growth,  head  back  the  top,  and  cut-in  the  side  branches.  The 
next  season  the  tree  will  shoot  out  three  or  four  tiers  of  side 
branches,  according  to  its  strength.  The  lowest  should  be  left 
about  eighteen  inches  from  the  ground,  and,  by  pinching  off  su- 
perfluous shoots,  others  may  be  made  to  grow  pretty  regularly,  so 
as  not  to  crowd  the  head.  At  the  end  of  this  season  head  back 
the  leader  to  strengthen  the  side  shoots.  Next  season  a  fresh  se- 
ries of  lateral  shoots  will  be  produced,  four  or  five  of  which  may 
be  kept  every  year;  and,  the  third  or  fourth  y6ar,  the  lower 
branches  may  be  bent  down  in  midsummer,  and  kept  in  a  pendu- 
lous position  for  a  year  or  two,  by  tying  them  to  stakes  driven  in 
the  ground,  or  to  the  main  stem.  The  successive  growth  at  the 
top,  and  arrangement  of  the  limbs  below,  must  be  coutinued  till 
the  requisite  height—say  ten  feet — is  attained.  A  moderate  prun- 
ing to  produce  ^[ew  wood,  and  the  occasional  tying  in  of  a  ramb- 
ling shoot,  will  be  all  that  is  required." 

Fig.  15.  Pyramidal  Training. — This    is 

perforlned  like  tlie  last  with  the 
exception  of  tying  down  the 
branches^  which  is  omitted.  It 
'  gives  a  beautiful  form  and  expo- 
ses all  parts  equally  to  light  and 
air. 

To  induce  Early  ,  Bearing. — "Root 
Pruning  has  been  practiced  of  late 
years,  for  this  purpose.  The  roots  are 
laid  bare,  and  some  of  the  longest  are 
cut  off  a  few  feet  from  the  tree;  this 
checks  its  growth,  and  early  bearing  is 
the  result.  This  is  practised  also  for  the 
purpose  of  dwarfing  in  gardens,  where 
Pyramidal  Training,     f  g^^^j,  ^^^^^  ^^^  preferred.     The  fall   is  a 

favorable  season  for  this  operation,  but  it  shortens  the  life  and 
restricts  the  size  of  the  tree,  and  ranks  with  the  fancy  work  of 
the  amateur." 

"Bending  the  limbs  down,  and  fastening  them  in  that  position, 


u 

ivs  in  queiiouilk  training,  letains  the  snp  itz  ibein,  inducing  bear- 
I'Dg  and  improvement  in  fruit,  without  injury  to  the  tree.  Hence 
th'»re  is  more  phih>sophy  than  whim  in  the  saying,  that  tiie  bend- 
ing down  of  fruit  trees  by  heavy  snjjj^indicates  a  fruitful  season. 

Transplanting  a  tree  frequently  has  a  tendency  to  check  its 
growth,  and  cause  early  bearing;  but  it  v/ill  reduce  its  size,  and 
{shorten  its  life.  The  eftect  is  the  same  as  root  pruning,  as  roots 
are  lost  by  removal. 

Slocks. — By  putting  scions  into  stocks  of  slow  growth,  as  pears 
on  quince  and  thorns,  luxuriant  pluras  on  Canada  stocks,  peaches 
on  plums,  apples  on  paradise  stocks,  the  effect  is  similar  to  root 
pruning,  both  irr  causing  early  bearing  and  in  the  final  effect  on 
the  tree. 

Shortening-in  is  the  most  successful,  convenient,  and  least  in^ 
jii'rious  mode.  In  July,  clip  off'abont  a  third  of  the  present  years 
growth;  this  will  cause  the  formation  of  blossom  buds,  instead  of 
an  extension  of  wood,  as  would  be  the  case  without  clipping.  We 
have  found  this  very  effectual  with  the  peach.  If  buds  have  sefc 
naturally,  cutting  off  half  the  last  year's  growth  early  in  the  spring 
^ill  generally  improve  the  fruit  by  reducing  its  quantity. — Cole's 
Fruit  Book. 

To  protect  Trees  from  Mice. — During  winter  mice 
from  want  of  food  often  girdle  trees.  To  prevent 
this,  tread  the  snow  about  the  trunks  after  each  storm; 
or  raise  a  mound  of  earth  about  each  tree.  If  they 
come  out  upon  the  snow  as  they  sometimes  do,  tie 
about  the  trunks,  shingles,  old  barrel  staves,  old  can- 
\^a8s,  &c. 

Insects,  ^'Insects  are  kept  away  from  plants  and  trees,  chiefly  by 
strong  offensive  odors.  Some  of  those  that  have  proved  effectu- 
al, are  the  odor  of  chamomile^  that  of  coal-tar  from  the  gas  works, 
the  vapor  from  oil  of  turpentine,  &c. 

Insects  may  he  killed  by  liquid  applications.  The  best  liquids 
yet  known  for  this  purpose  are  tobacco  ivater,  and  diluted  whale 
oil  soap. 

Tobocco  water  is  made  by  bo'ling  any  refuse  tobacco  in  water. 
It  mast  not  be  excessively  strong. 

The  whale  oil  soap  is  prepared,  by  mixing  one  pound  of  it  with 
seven  or  eight  gallons  of  water.  These  liquids  may  be  applied 
to  plants,  with  a  water-pot,  or  a  syringe  having  a  water-pot  rose 
upon  the  end  of  it  so  as  to  scatter  the  water  more  effectually 

Half  a  pound  of  quassia,  boiled  a  few  minutes  in  six  quarts  of 
water,  is  a  liquid  said  to  be  quite  as  etTicacioua  as  the  tobacco- 
water. 

All  plant  lice  and  almost  all  small  insects,  can  be  killed,  by  the 
application  of  either  of  these  liquids.     A  mixture  of  them  might 


\ 


\ 


09 

.poisibly  be  even  more  effectual  than  either  used  by  itself..  Strong 
suds  made  of  common  soap  answers  tolerably  well,  in  many  cases. 

Much  has  been  accomplished,  by  kindling  bonfires  in  a  fruit- 
garden,  at  night.  ThousancJ^  of  winged  insects,  from  a  sort  of 
instinctive  fondness  for  the  light,  fly  into  thfese  fires  aiid  perish  at 
once.' 

Wide-mouthed  bottles,  filled  with  molasses  and  water,  and  sus- 
pended among  the  trees,  will  speedily  become  full  of  inkect^,^'    ' 

Apple  Tre?  Borer. — Tliis  insect  "is  from  the  larv?^ 
of  tte  two  striped  sapeda  (&jt?<?^/a  hivitiati)  The  up- 
per part  of  the  body  of  the  perfect  insect  is  marked 
with  two  longitudinal  ^hite  stri^oes,  among  others  of 
a  light  brown,  while  the  face,  antennaB^  the  iinder 
side:  of  the  body  and  legs,  are  white.  It  is  about  3-| 
of  an  ii;ch  long.  This  beetle  cpmes  from  the  tree  in 
June  and  feeds  iipon  the  leaves.  From  June  to  Aug«' 
it  deposits  its  Qgg-:i  on  the  bark  of  the  tree  at  the 
ground."  The  larvaB  or  young  borers,  from  the  ^g^g^j 
are  fleshy,  round,  whitish  grubs,  without '  legs,  taper- 
iiig  from  the  first  ring.  The  first  season  it  eat« 
through  the  bark — -the  next,  it  penetrates  the  wood 
about  *t>velve  inches.  The  third  season  it  comet  ta 
the  mouth  of  tlie  hole^  a  full  sized  borer,  anS  there 
changes  to  the  beetle,  [sap^da  UvUtati.) 

To  Mil  them,  run  a  piece  of  wire  or  whalebone  into 
their  holes,  or  smoke  them  with  lighted  brimstone 
matches,  or  put  a  small  piece  of  gum  camphor  in  the 
hole  and  plug  it  up.  To  prevent  their  depositing  eggs, 
"wash  the  trunks  of  the  trees  with  a  solution  of  whale- 
oil  soap  and  hendu^g,  or  lye  of  wood  ashes  that  will 
Bear  up  an  ^gg. 

Apple  Worm  or  Codling  Moth. — This  bpautiful  moth 
deposits  its  eggs  in  the  eye  of  apples '  and  summei:' 
pears,  during  the  last  part  of  June  and  July/  They 
hatch  in  a  few  days,  and  eat  into  the  apples,  which 
causes  them  to  ripen  prematurely  and  fall  upon  the 
ground.  They  then  make  their  egress  and  entering 
some  crevice  of  the  tree,  spin  a  cocoon  about  them, 
in  which  they  remain  until  spring.  To  destroy  ihem^ 
jpick  up  the  defective  fruit  as  fast  as  it  falls  and  feed  it 


7t) 

to  hogs.  Scrape  the  loose  bark  from  the  trees  in  the 
spring,  and  erush  the  cocoons.  When  they  are  in  the 
winged  state,  build  bonfires. 

Barh  Louse.-— This  is  a  small,  oval,  white  insect,  that 
deposits  its  eggs  under  a  thin  scale  upon  the  bark  of 
apple  trees.  Wash  the  trees  with  a  solution  made  of 
2  lbs.  Potash  to  2  gall.  Water. 

The  Canker  Worm.  This  worm,  [mmopteri/x  pomeich 
ria,  of  JIurnSy)  is  very  destructive  to  apple  trees  in 
some  parts  of  N.  E.  The  male  is  a  moth  with  wings; 
the  female  is  without  wings.  They  come  out  of 
the  ground  as  soon  as  the  frost  is  out,  and  the  females 
slowly  climb  up  the  tree  where  the  males  mate  with 
them.  The  eggs. are  deposited  in  the  forks  of  limbs 
and  on  young  twigs.  They  number  about  one  hun- 
dred to  an  insect,  and  are  arranged  in  rows.  About 
the  middle  or  last  of  May,  they  hatch  out  and  brown 
or  ash  colored  worms,  with  yellow  stripes  on  their 
backs^  commence  their  devastation  upon  the  foliage. 
After  feeding  about  four  weeks,  they  descend  into  th© 
ground  and  there  remain  in  a  chrysalis  form  until  the 
ensuing  spring. 

7h  destroy  litem,  place  a  band  of  canvass  four  or  six 
inches  wide  around  tlie  trunk  of  the  tree,  and  cover 
it  with  tar  and  oil  mixed,  or  with  melted  India  rubber. 
The  female  wlien  attempting  to  climb  is  caught  in 
this  and  killed.  Dig  the  ground  over  late  in  the  fall^ 
so  that. the  worm  in  the  chrystdis  form  may  freeze. 

Fig.  10. 

Vvrculio. — The  Curculio,  known  to. 
naturalists  by  the  name,  llhi/nchoenm 
Nenuphar^  is  one  of  the  most  serious  hin- 
derences  to  the  cultivation  of  the 
pliun.  Its  habits  are  not  fully  known. 
It  is  a  small,  dark  brown^^  winged  beetle, 
scarcely  one  fifth  of  an  inch  long,  with 

spots  of  white,  yellow,  and  black.     It  has  two  hump;? 

on  its  back  and  a  pretty  long  curved  neck  and  snout, 


71 

i?7hicliwhen  at  rest  are  "bent  between  the  forelegs. — 
It  makes  its  appearance  during  the  month  of  April 
und  commences  its  destructive  operation  soon  after 
the  blossoms  have  fallen  and  the  young  fruit  is  form- 
ed.    It  flies  from  the  ground  into  the  tree.      This  oc- 
curs sometime  during  the  month  of  May.      It  contin- 
ues its  depredations  until  August.     By  examining  the 
young  fruit  in  districts  where  the  curculio  w^orks  small 
semicircular  punctures  may  be  found.      These  punct- 
ures are  the  ^-crescent-shaped  msignia  of  that  little 
Turk,  the  curculio."     In  each  of  these,  an  egg,  so  small 
as  to  be  invisible  to  the  eye,  is  deposited.      In  July 
the  egg  is  hatched  and  becomes  a  small  white  grub  or 
larva,  which  eats  its  way  to  the  stone.     This  causes 
the  fruit  to  fall.     The  larva  works  its  way  out  of  the 
plum  and  into  the  ground.      Here  it  remains   in  the 
chrysalis  form  until  it  emerges  in  the  spring  a  perfect 
beetle.     In  some  few  cases  it  has  been  proved  that  it 
comes  out  in  about  twenty  days  after  it  entered*     But 
this  is  supposed  to  arise  from  not  having  worked  its 
way  into  the  ground  but  a  short  distance.     No  plan 
as  yet  has  been  devised  by  which  we  can  entirely  rid 
ourselves  of  this  pest  of  the  plum  tree.     Strong  and 
powerful  odors  are  very  offensive  to  most  insects.—^ 
Some  have  been  successful  in  raising  crops  of   plums 
after  years  of  disappointment,  by  smoking  the  irtrees. 
This  is  done  by  taking  a  pan  of  coals  and  putting  up- 
on them  leaf  tobacco,  scraps  of  leather,  brimstone, 
&c.,  and  holding  them  so  that  the  fumes  may  ^ass 
through  the  foliage.     This  should  be  done  freqiieiitly 
from  the  time  the  plum  forms  until  it  gets  out  of  the 
way  of  the  weevil.      Some  build   up  fires   near  the 
trees  and  partly  smother  them  so  that  the  smoke  will 
arise  during  the  whole  day.     Others  syringe  the  trees 
with  strong' scented  solutions,  such  as  tobacco  w^ater, 
solutions  of  whale  oil  soap,  and  we  think  that  a  very 
weak  solution    of  Kreosote  from  its   strong  smoky 
scent  might  be  useful.     Care  should  be  taken  that  the 
^Bolutions  are  not  so  strong  as  to  injure  the  leaves,—- 


Salt  is  also  useful.  It  should  be  spread  under  th(* 
tree  when  the  plums  begin  to  fall.  The  ground  should 
be  made  smooth  and  hard.  Downing  recommends 
that  it  be  spread  to  the  depth  of  one  fourth  of  an 
inch  as  far  out  as  the  limbs  extend.  The  plums  fall- 
ing upon  this  the  larvuD  die  before  they  can  work  their 
way  into  the  ground.  The  salt  is  an  excellent  fertili- 
zer for  the  plum,  Ahother  method  is  to  place  sheets 
under  the  tree  at.  morning  and  night  and  strike  the 
tr\ink  with  a  padded  malet  and  as  the  curculios  fall 
kill  them.  Large  crops  of  plums  are  saved  in  this 
way.  Aiiother  way  is  to  pick  the  plums  as  they  fall 
and  burn  them.  This  should  be  done  whichever  way 
is  pursued,  as  this  destroys  the  next  years  brood  of  in- 
sects. 

By  pursuing  some  or  all  of  the  above  processes,  our 
plum  crops  would  be  very  much  benefited.  We  hope 
our  plum  cultivators  will  try  them.  Above  we  give 
a  cut  of  a  pluin  with  a  curculio  and  two  crescent 
marks  upon  it,  although  the  insect  seldom  makes  but 
one  if  there  ai^e  plums  enough  Tor  its  purposes. 

Caterpillars, — These  well  knoSvn  insects  make  a  web 
for  shelter  and  are  in  it  morning,  noon,  night  and  du- 
ring wet  weather.  They  iiiay  then  be  crushed,  or 
burnt  with  sulphur  "or  turpentine,  or  destroyed  vnt^ 
strong  tobacco  water. 

Peach  Tree  Borers,- — :The  j)^i'fsct  in^^ects  are  sleu; 
der,  dark  blue,  four-winged  moths,  resembling  wasp^. 
They  deposit  their  eggs  from  June  to  Oct.  in  the  soflt 
bark  of  the  trunk  at  the  ground.  These  hatch  and 
become  the  borers.  They  enter  a.nd  destroy  the  bark 
and  sap  of  the  tree,  causing  it  to  die.  After  passing 
the  winter  in  the  tree,  they  enfold  in  cocoohs,  and 
emerge  again  in  June.  To  protect  the  treesy  put  ashes 
or  air-slacked  lime  about  the  base  of  the  trunks. 

^S'/w^^— These  arc  dark  olive  colored  insects,  some* 

what  resembling  snails.     They  prey  Upon  the;lea<y'e$ 

^of  cherry  and  pear  frees  and  rose  bushes.      To  IdU 


ihem^  dust  the  trees  uitli  ashes  when  the  deW  it  on,  or 
sho^yer  them  with  strong  soap  suds. 

APPLES, 

"Theiippie  will  flourish  in  almost  every  stjil  and  locat'fon,  n\i- 
der  good  management;  but  the  best  soil'ts  a  tolerably  moist,  ieep 
loam,  iaclining  to  marl  or  clay,  with  a  good  portion  of  vegetabld 
mould.  Most  tillage,  suitable  for  grass,  potatoes,  cabbages,  and 
where  corft  will  well  flourish  in  dry  seasons,  is  better  f^r  the  ap- 
ple than  dryei  soils.  Rocky  and  stony  lands  are  preferable,  and 
all  the  small  stones  should  not  be  removed.  A  hard  pan  foi^dis  a 
good  bottom,  but  a  porous  sub-soil  is  unfavorable. 

Moderate  elevations,  or  ufidulating  lands,  or  hills,  are  the  most 
suitable  locations.  In  very  low,  sheltered  situatioiis,  there  is 
more  exposure  to  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold,  and  I^te  spring 
frosts,  and  early  fall  freezes;  yet  the  apple  is  hardy  and  will  gen- 
ally  fiucceed  in  such  situations.  On  very  high  locatioiiis,  especial^ 
ly  on  the  tops  of  mountains  and  high  hills,  and  some  other  bleak 
places,  there  is  too  great  exposure  to  winds  arid  peltiifJg  storms, 
which  may  injure  the  blossoms,  fruit,  and  foliage." 

"Early  Harvest. — Prince- s  Harvest,  July  Pippin  of  Floy, 
YelUw  Harvest,  Large  IVJiite  Juneating,  Tart  Bough,  Ao 
American  apple;  and  taking  into  account  its  beauty,  its  excellent 
qualities  for  the  dessert  and  for  cooking,  and  its  productiveness, 
we  think  it  the  finest  early  apple  yet  known.  It  bephs  to  ripen 
about  the  first  of  July,  and  continues  in  use  all  that  rbonth.  The 
smallest  collection  of  apples  should  comprise  this  anci  the  Red  As- 
trachan.  Form  round,  above  mecJium  siee,  rarely  &  little  flatten- 
ed. Skin  very  smooth,  with  a  few  faint  white  dots,  bright  straw 
color  when  fully  ripe.  Stalk  half  to  three  fourths  of  an  inch 
long,  rather  slender,  inserted  in  a  hollow  of  moi^erate  depth. — 
Calyx  set  in  a  shallow  basin.  Flesh  very  white,  tender  and  juicy, 
crisp,  with  a  rich,  sprightly,  sub-acid  flavor.  Tlie  young  trees 
of  moderate  vigor,  with  scarcely  diverging  shoots.  Manning  errs 
by  following  Coxs  in  calling  this  a  flat  apple." 

"Red  Astrachan. — A  fruit  of  extraordinary  beauty,  first  im- 
ported into  England  with  the  White  Astrachan,  from  SwedcB,  in 
1816.  It  bears  abundantly  with  us,  and  its  sihgular  richness  of: 
color  is  heightened  by  an  exquisite  bloom  oil  the  surface  q£  th» 
fruit,  like  that  of  a  plum.  It  is  one  af  the  handsomest  dessert 
fruits,  aud  its  quality  is  good,  but  if  not  taken  from  the  tree  a» 
soon  as  ripe,  it  is  liable  to  become  mealy.  Itipens  from  the  last 
of  July  to  the  middle  of  August. 

Fruit  pretty  large,  rather  above  the  middle  size,  and  Very 
smooth  and  fair,  roundish,  a  little  narrowed  towards  the  eye. — 
Skin  almost  entirely  covered  with  crimson,  with  sometimes  a  kittle 
Vretnisli  yellow  in  the  shade,  and  occasionally  a  little  rtisset  iiear 


the  stalk,  and  covered  with  a  pale  white  bloom.  Stalk  rather 
short  and  deeply  inserted.  Calyx  set  in  a  slight  basin, f  which  is 
sometimes  a  little  irregular.  Flesh  quite  white,  crisp,  moderate- 
ly juicy,  with  an  agreeable,  rich,  acid  flavor." — Jl.  J.  Downing. 

"Sweet  Bough,  August  Sweeting,,  Bough,  Yellow  Bough. — 
Large;  roundish-conical;  smooth,  greenish-yellow;  stem  rath- 
er slender,  in  a  deep  narrow  cavity;  calyx  medial,  deeply 
sunk;  flesh  whitish,  very  tender,  juicy,  of  a  rich,  sprightljt,  sac- 
charine flavor.  During  August.  Good  grower,  good  and  con- 
stant bearer.  Throughout  the  country  the  best  early  sweet  apple 
known.  Hardy,  and  adapted  to  various  climates  and  soils.  Na- 
tive."—^. fV.  Cole. 

"Early  Strawberry  Apple. — American  Red  Juncating.  A 
beautifuTvariety- which  is^said^to  have  originated  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  New  York,  and  appears  in  the  markets  there  from  July 
till  September.  Its  sprightly  flavor,  agreeable  perfume,  and  fine 
appearance,  place  it  among  the  very  finest  summer  apples.  It  is 
quite  distinct  from  the  early  Red  Margaret,  which  has  no  fra- 
grance, and  a  short  stem. 

Fruit  roundish,  narrowing  towards  the  eye.  Skin  smooth  and 
fair,  finely  striped  and  stained  with  bright  and  dark  red,  on  yel- 
lowish or  white  ground.  Stalk  an  inch  and  a  half  long  rather 
slender  and  uneven,  inserted  in  a  deep  cavity.  Calyx  rather 
small,  in  a  shallow,  narrow  basin.  Flesh  white,  slightly  tinged 
with  red  next  the  skm,  tender,  sub-acid,  and  very  sprightly  and 
brisk  in  flavor,  with  an  agreeable  aroma." — Dotvning. 

''Porter. — Large;  oblong-ovate;  smooth,  rich  yellow,  a  dull 
blush  in  the  sun;  stem  medial,  in  a  rather  narrow,  deep  cavity; 
calyx  large,  open,  in  a  rather  narrow,  deep  basin:  flesh  tolerably 
ficie  and  tender,  very  juic/,  of  a  rich,  excellent,  slightly  acid  fla- 
vor. For  cooking  and  the  dessert.  September  and  into  October. 
A  good  grower  and  great  bearer.  The  principal  September  ap- 
ple in  the  Boston  market.  It  also  succeeds  well  in  the  Middle 
States,  and  in  the  West.  Generally  yields  about  twice  as  much 
in  even  as  in  odd  years.  By  Rev,  S.  Porter,  Sherburne,  Ms." — 
Cole.  / 

"Gravenstein. — Fruit  large,  about  three  inches  and  a  half  in 
diameter,  broadest  at  the  base,  generally  flattened,  sometimes 
rather  oblong,  wilh  angles  which  terminate  in  the  crown.  Eye 
rather  wide,  sunk  in^a  deep  hollow,  surrounded  by  several  project- 
ing folds  or  knobs.  Stalk  very  short,  deeply  inserted.  Skin 
smooth,  of  a  clear  yellowish  green  or  straw  color,  streaked  and 
mottled  with  red  on  the  sunny  side.  Flesh  pale  yellow,  crisp, 
with  a  highly:flavored  vinous  juice.  A  dessert  apple,  ripening  in 
the  autumn,  but  will  keep  till  April." — Lindley. 

"Jewett's  'R,ETf,JVodhead. — Medial;  flattish-round;  bright  dark 
red,  very  little  greenish  yellow;  very  short  stem,  in  a  very  shal- 
low cavity;  small  calyx  in  a  slight  basin;  flesh  yellowish,  remark- 


ably  tender,  almost  melting,  like  a  fine  pear;  mild,  approaching 
to  saccharine,  of  a  delicious  aromatic  flavor.  For  the  dessert  on- 
ly. Oct.  and  Nov.  A  good  grower  till  it  begins  to  bear  ;  a  good 
bearer.  Adapted  to  the  North.  Requires  a  good  soil  and  high 
culture,  else  the  fruit  will  not  be  fair.  Origin,  Hollis,  N.  H. — 
Much  cultivated  in  that  State  and  Maine.  It  is  beautiful  and  of 
the  first  quality." — Cole. 

"Fall  Pippin. — Fruit  large,'some\vhat  pyramidal  in  form,  a  lii- 
tle  higher  on  one  side  than  the  other.  Eye  rather  deeply  sunk  in 
an  even  basin.  Stalk  short  and  thick,  the  fruit  sitting  close  to 
the- branch.  Skin  of  a  yellowish  green,  with  a  tinge  of  blush,  or 
rather  brownish  c^st,  on  the  sunny  side.  Flesh  tender,  white  and 
juicy,  of  a  rich  aromatic  flavor.     Ripe    in    November. 

This  is  one  of  our  finest  fall  apples;  and  when  in  full  perfec- 
tion is  not  surpassed  by  any,  either  for  the  dessert  when  ripe,  or 
for  culinary  purposes  a  month  earlier ;  it  however  does  not  keep 
long." — Floy. 

"Mother  Apple. — Rather  large;  roundiish,  slightly  ovale  ;  very 
little  yellow,  marbled  and  striped  with  red,  very  dark  and  bright 
in  the  sun,  the  red  is  interspersed  with  russety  dots  ;  stem  three 
quarters  of  an  inch  long,  rather  slender,  in  a  broad,  tolerably  deep 
cavity;  calyx  small,  nearly  closed,  in  a  narrovv,  tolerably  deep, 
irregular  basin;  flesh  yellowish,  very  terider,  almost  m.elting,  mild, 
rich,  highly  aromatic,  with  a  delightful  mingling  of  slightly  sub- 
acid and  saccharine  qualities;  aroma  resembling  Chick-winter- 
green.  Last  of  Oct,  to  Jan.  We  find  it  perfectly  hardy  in  Me., 
moderate  grower,  a  good  and  constant  bearer.  In  quality  it  has 
po  superior,  and  very  few  eqnals.     Origin,  Bolton,  Ms."— Co/e. 

"Baldwin. —  Woodpecker,  Pecker.  The  Baldwin  stands  at  the 
head  of  all  New  England  apples,  and  is  unquestionably  a  first 
rate  fruit  in  all  respects.  It  is  a  native  of  Massachusetts,  and -is 
more  largely  cultivated  for^the  Boston  market  than  any  other  sort. 
It  bears  most  abundantly  with  us,  and  we  have  had  the  satisfac- 
tion of  raising  larger,  more  beautiful,  and  highly  flavored  speci- 
mens here,  than  we  ever  saw  in  its  native  region.  The  Baldwin, 
in  flavor  and  general  characteristics,  evidently  belongs  to  the  fami- 
]y  of  Esopus  Spitzenburgh,  arid  deserves  its  extensive  popularity. 

Fruit  large,  roundish,  and  narrowing  a  little  to  the  eye.  Skiq 
yellow  in  the  shade,  but  nearly  covered  and  striped  with  crimson, 
red,  and  orange,  in  the  sun;  dotted  with  a  few  large  russet  dots, 
and  with  radiating  streaks  of  russet  about  the  stalk.  Calyx  clos- 
ed, set  in  a  rather  narrow,  plaited  basin.  Stalk  half  to  three 
fourths  of  an  inch  long,  rather  slender  for  so  large  a  fruit,  planted 
in  an  even,  moderately  deep  cavity.  Flesh  yellowish  white,  crisp, 
with  that  agreeable  mingling  of  the  saccharine  and  acid  which 
constitutes  a  rich,  high  flavor.  The  tree  is  a  vigorous,  upricrht 
grower,  and  bears  most  abundantly.  Ripe  from  November  t^ 
March,  but  with  us,  is  iq  perfection  in  January."        • 


76 


•'i^Vi'ELTiNG,  Ladils'. — The  Ladies'  Sweei^ing  wc  consider  th« 
finest  winter  sweet  apple,  for  the  dessert,  yet  known  or  cuhivateil 
in  this  country.  Its  handsome  appearance,  delightful  perfunie, 
aprigh^ly  flavour,  and  the  long  time  which  it  remains  in  perfection, 
render  it  uniyersally  admired  wherever  it  is  known,  and  no  gar- 
den &hould  be  without  it.  It  is  a  native  of  this  neifrhborhood,,  and 
thousands  of  trees  of  this  variety,  have  been  sent  from  this  gar- 
den, to  various  parts  of  the  union.  The  wood  is  not  very  stro'ng, 
but  it  grows  thriftily,  and  bears  very  abundantly.  '  '  - 

Fruit  large,  roundish-ovate,  narrowing  pretty  rapidly  tovyards 
the  eye.  Skin  very  smooth,  nearly  covered  with  red  in  the  siin, 
but  pale  yellov^^ish-green  in  the  shade,  with  broken  stripes  of  pal^ 
red.  The  red  is  sprinkled  with  well  marked,  yellowish-gray  dots, 
and  covered,  when  first  gathered,  with  a  thin  white  bloom.  There 
is  also  generally  a  faint  marbling  of  cloudy  white  over  the  red,  on 
the  shady  side  of  the  fruit,  and  the  rays  of  the  same  around  the 
etalk.  Calyx  quite  small,  set  in  a  narrow,  shallow,  plaited  basin. 
Stalk  half  an  irichlong,  in  a  shallow  cavity.  Flesh  greenish-white 
exceedingly  tender,  juicy  and  crisp,  with  a  delicious,  spriglitly, 
agreeably  perfumed  flavor.  Keeps  without  shrivelling,  or  losing 
its  flavor,  till  May." — Downing. 

•*Rhode  I3LAND  Greening. — Large;  flattish;  smooth,  pale- 
grccn,  brownish  cheek,  full  in  the  sun;  stalK  two  thirds  of  a,n 
inch  long,  rather  slender;  calyx  small,  closed,  in  a  shallow,  plait- 
ed basin;  flesd  yellowish,  fine,  tender,  crisp,  juicy,  slightly  acid 
and  aromatic.  Last  of  Nov.  to  Feb.  Rapid  and  stout  grower, 
great  bearer.  Excellent  for  cooking,  and  pretty  good  for  eating. 
One  of  the  very  best  for  main  crops.  It  succeeds  well  on  rather 
light,  sandy  sojl.  It  is  the  leading  apple  in  R.  I.,  the  place  of  its 
origin;  one  of  the  principal  in  New  Englaiid,  generally,  and  N. 
Y.  In  this  section  the  Baldwin  is  more  profitable  for  the  market, 
^ut  this  is  equally  valuable  for  Family  use." 

"RoxBuRY  Russet,  Boston  Russet,  Putnam  Musset  in  O.  Rath- 
er large;  flattish;  yellow  russet,  rarely  a  faint  blush;  stem  medi- 
al, slender,  in  a  rather  shallow  cavity;  calyx  closed,  in  a  moder- 
Ute  basin;  (Jesh  greenish-white,  rather  dry,  when  fully  ripe,  slight- 
ly acid  and  pleasant.  Pretty  good  for  coosing,  not  first-rate  for 
|ho  dessert.  Late  Winter,  Spring,  and  early  Summer.  A  mod- 
erate grower,  and  great  bearer,  in  a  very  moist,  strong,  rich  soil, 
otherwise  unprofitable.  Very  apt  to  fail  from  unfavorable  weath- 
er in  spring,  or  other  causes;  yet  important  from  its  late  keeping. 
Prigin,  Rbxbury,  Als." — Cole. 

"Northern  Spy. — This  beautiful  new  American  fruit  is  one  of 
ifhc  most  delicious,  fragrant,  and  sprightly  of  all  late  dessert  ap- 
pijes.  It  ripens  in  January,  }^eepn  till  June,  and  always  coi^- 
inandd  the  highest  market  price.  The  tree  is  of  rapid,  upright 
growth,  and  bears, moderate  crops.  It  originated  on  the  farm  o{ 
QliTtr  Chapin,  of  Bloorofield,  near  Rochester,  N.  Yv 


Fruit  large,  conical  flattened.  Skin  thin,  snnooth,  in  the  shade 
greenish  or  pale  yellow,  in  the  sun  covered  with  light  and  dark 
stripes  of  puri)lish-red,  marked  with  a  few  pale  dots,  and  a  thin, 
while  bloom.  Stalk  three-fourths  of  an  inch  long,  rather  slender, 
planted  in  a  very  wide,  deep  cavity,  marked  with  russet.  Calyx 
small,  closed;  basin  narrow,  abrupt,  furrowed.  Flesh  white, 
fine-gr.iined,  tender,  slightly  sub-acid,  with  a  peculiarly  fresh  and 
delicious  flavor." — Downing. 

Those  who  would  go  beyond  the  above  descriptive 
list  can  select  from  the  following  kinds  those  that  will 
prove  satisfactory  and  profitable. 

Benoni,  Summer  Rose,  William's  Earl?/  Red,  Pumpkin 
Sweeting, Shaker's  Pipinn  of  Pineo,Ly scorn,  Maiden's  Blush, 
lluhhardston  Nonsuch,  Leland's  Spice,  Esopiis  Spizcnlmrg, 
Broadwell,  Rihstone  Pippin,  and  Danvars  Winter  Sweet- 
ing. The  Red  and  Yellotv  Siberian  Crah  apples  are  or- 
namental and  fine  for  preserving. 

APEICOTS. 
These  require  a  warm  situation  and  a  protection  of 
straw  in  the  winter  in  our  latitude.  They  are  well 
adapted  to  wall  training.  They  should  be  budded  up- 
on Plum  stocks  and  headed  in  during  the  month  of 
August.  When  budded  on  the  Plum,  it  does  best  on 
strong,  moist  soils.  "The  fruit  resembles  that  of  a 
peach  externally;  the  stone  is  like  that  of  a  plum, 
and  the  flesh  of  some  kinds  seems  to  be  intermediate 
between  the  two." 

Breda. — Fruit  rather  small,  its  general  form  roundish,  but  often 
approaching  to  be  somewhat  four-sided.  The  Suture  is  moderate- 
ly deep,  with  a  depression  at  its  termination  on  the  summit  The 
Skin,  where  exposed  to  the  sun,  is  of  a  deep,  brownish  orange. — 
Flesh  deep  orange, parting  freely  from  the  stone,  juicy,  rich,  and 
high  flavored.  Stone  rather  small,  roundish,  compressed,  but  not 
so  much  as  in  some  others.  Kernel  sweet,  like  a  hazel-nut.  Ri- 
pens from  the  beginning  to  the  middle  of  August." 

MooRPARK. — "Fruit  large,  of  a  roundish  figure,  about  seven 
inches  and  a  half  in  circumference  each  way,  deeply  hollowed  at 
the  base,  and  compressed  on  its  sides,  one  of  which  is  swelled 
considerably  more  than  the  other  at  the  suture,  which  gives  it  an 
oblique  appearance.  Skin  pale  yellow  on  the  shaded  side,  but  of 
a  deep  orange  color,  shaded  and  marbled  with  brownish  red  on  the 
side  next  the  sun,  and  full  of  dark  specks.  Flesh  very  firm,  bright 
orange,  separating  clean  from  the  stone.     Juice  plentiful  and  ex- 


78 

cellent.  Stone  rather  rugged,  with  a  pervious  passage,  contaisi-' 
ing  a  bitter  kernel.  Ripe  the  end  of  August  and  beginning  of 
September." 

Roman. — Fruit  middle  sized,  in  form  slightl}^  compressed,  in- 
clining to  oval,  Skin  dull  straw  color,  wuh  a  little  dotting  of  or- 
ange or  red  on  the  sunny  side,  but  in  such  small  quantity,  that  tiie 
skin  has  alwuys  a  pallid  appearance.  Suture  shallow.  Flesh 
dull  pale  straw  color,  soft,  dry,  rather  meally,  with  a  little  sweet- 
ness and  acidity.  Stone  flat,  oblong,  rather  obtuse  at  each  end, 
with  a  very  even  surface,  separating  from  the  flesh.  Kernel  very 
bitter.  Hipe  the  middle  of  August.  The  Roman  Apricot  is  the 
most  common  in  our  gardens;  its  principle  recommendations  are 
its  hardiness  and  plentiful  bearing.  It  is  best  before  fully  ripe."— 
Lindley, 

BLACKBERRIES. 

This  fruit  is  being  much  improved  by  eultivation 
and  where  the  wild  berry  is  not  easily  obtained  it  pays 
to  cultiyate  it.  It  grows  on  either  a  tolerably  dry,  or  a 
deep,  moist  soil.  The  ground  should  be  cultivated 
and  made  rich  and  mellow.  The  methods  of  propa- 
gation are  by  off-sets  of  old  roots  or  by  seeds.  The 
improved  High  Bush  and  the  .Buil^  are  the  most  es- 
teemed kinds, 

GiiEiiEIES. 

The  Cherry  does  best  on  a  good  sandy  or  gravelly 
loam.  Being  hardy  it  will  produce  fruit  in  a  variety 
of  soils,  but  if  planted  in  a  very  moist  place  it  is  short 
lived.  It  is  propagated  by  budding  the  finer 
sorts  upon  seedlings  of  the  common  black  mazzard. 

Early  White  Heart. — "Fruit  below  medium  size,  rather  ob- 
long heart  shaped,  often  a  little  one-sided.  Suture  quit-^.  distinct. 
Stalk  an  inch  and  three  fourths  long,  rather  slender,  inserted  in  a 
wide  shallow  cavity.  Skin  dull  Vvliiiish  yellow,  tinged  and  speck- 
led with  pale  red  in  the  bun.  Flesh  half  tender,  unless  fully  ripe, 
v/hen  it  is  melt  ing,  with  a  sweet  and  pleasant  Havcur.  'J'ree  growd 
rather  erect,  v/ith  a  distatF-like  head  when  young  Tn  the  nursery 
tiie  youns;  trees  are  easily  knov/n  by  their  Son^  andsiena,.  shoots,. 
with  few  br;inches.     First  of  June." 

Mayduke. — "This  valuable  cherry  is  one  of  the  most  popular 
aortfj  in  all  countries,  'hrivinfr  almost  equally  well  in  cold  or  warm- 
dim  .tes.  This,  the  Black  Heart,  and  the  Biganeau,  are  the 
most  extensively  diffusec  all  the  (ine»  varieties  in  the  United 
States.     And  anions  all  the  new  varieties  none  has  been  found 


79 

fto -supplant  the  Mayduke." 

"Fruit  roundish  or  obtuse  he.nt-shaped,  growing  in  clusters. — 
Skin  at  first  oT  a  lively  red,  but  when  fully  ripe  of  a  rich  dark 
red,  Flesh  reddish,  tendur  and  melting,  very  juicy,  and,  at  ma- 
turity, rich  and  excellent  in  flavour.  This  fruit  is  most  frequent- 
ly picked  while  it  is  yet  red,  and  partially  acid,  and  before  it  at- 
tains its  proper  color  or  flavour.  It  begins  to  color,  about  New 
York,  in  favorable  seasons,  the  last  of  May,  and  ripens  durinar 
the  first  half  of  June." — Bownhig. 

Black  Tartarean". — "A  very  large  heart-shaped  fruit,  of  mosrt 
superior  quality;  color  dark  shining  purple,  or  black;  flesh  firm, 
dark  red  or  purple,  sweet  and  of  most  excellent  flavour.  The 
very  best  cherry  yet  known  with  us.  The  tree  and  fruit  combine 
an  assemblage  of  good  qualities  which  never  meet  but  in  a  very 
■extraordinary  fruit;  an  elegant,  very  rapid  growing  tree,  of  great 
productiveness,  very  large  and  beauiiful  fruit,  and  excellent  quali- 
ty. Supposed  to  have  originated  in  Spain;  thence  carried  to  Cir- 
cassia.  or  Russia;  from  Russia  it  was  brought  to  England  by  Mr. 
John  Frazier." — Wtn  Kenrich. 

Black  Heart. — "Fruit  pretty  large,  gro%ving,  for  the  mdst 
part,  singly,  heart-shaped,  a  little  flattened  at  the  apex,  compress- 
ed on  one  side,  with  a  slight  suture.  Stalk  one  inch  and  a  half 
long,  slender.  Skin  of  a  dark  purple,  approaching  to  black  when 
fully  ripe.  Flesh  pale  red,  rather  firm,  but  mellow,  with  a  rich, 
well  flavored  ji'.ice.  Ripe  the  end  of  July  or  beginning  of  Au- 
gust."— Lindhy. 

Black  Eagle. — "Tolerably  large;  obtuse,  heart-shaped;  pur- 
plish-black; stalk  medial  length,  rather  slender;  flesh  deep-pur- 
ple, rather  tender,  with  the  richest  and  finest  flavor.  A  standard 
of  excellence.  Ripens  the  last  of  June,  a  few  days  later  than 
the  Black  Tartarean.  Hardy  and  suitable  for  the  North;  a  o-ood 
bearer,  a  good  grower,  rather  spreading,  forming  a  round,  com- 
pact head.     Leaves  large.     English  origin." — Cole. 

Downer's  Late  Red. — "This  valuable  late  cherry  was  raised 
by  Samuel  Downer,  Esq.,  an  ardent  cultivator  of  Dorchester,  near 
Boston.  It  is  a  very  regular  and  gre,it  bearer,  rioens  about  & 
week  after  the  cherry  season,  and  hangs  for  a  considerable  time 
on  the  tree.  It  is  a  deiicinus,  meliing  fruit,  and  deserves  a  place 
in  every  garden.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  roundish,  heart-shaped, 
inclining  to  oval.  Skin  very  smooth,  of  a  soft  but  lively  red, 
mottled  with  a  little  amber  in  the  shade.  Stalk  inserted  with  a 
very  slight  depression.  Flesh  tender,  melting,  with  a  sweet  and 
luscious  flavor.  Ripens  from  the  4th  to  the  lOth  of  July." — 
Downing . 

The  list  may  be  increased  by  adding  the  Elton^ 
Belle  de  Choisy,  Flesh  colored  Bigarreaii  and  Honey 
Heart. 


so 

CURRANTS. 

Currant  bushes  are  propagated  by  cuttings  and  by 
dividing  old  roots ;  the  former  method  is  preferable. 
The  cuttings  should  be  taken  off  in  the  fall  and  kept 
like  scions  during  winter,  or  they  should  be  cut  ear- 
ly in  the  spring  and  immediately  inserted  in  the 
ground.  In  two  years  they  should  be  set  in  rows  eight 
feet  apart  and  six  feet  apart  in  the  row.  They  re- 
quire an  occasional  pruning  of  the  old  wood.  They 
should  be  cultivated  and  manured.  A  deep  soil  suits 
them  best. 

Red  Dutch. — A  kind  much  larger  than  the  common 
red,  produces  large  clusters  and  is  less  acid. 

White  Dutck — Large  yellowish  white,  transparent, 
and  less  acid  than  the  red.     Perfectly  hardy. 

May's  Victoria. — "A  new  variety  from  England.  We  have 
had  bunches  over  five  inches  long.  The  berries  are  very  large, 
bright  red,  excellent  flavor,  and  hang  long  on  the  bush  in  perfec- 
tion.    Foliage  thick,  deep  green,     Of  gre^t  excellence." — Colt. 

CRANBERRIES. 

These  are  propagated  by  taking  sods  from  natural 
cranberry  meadows  and  dividing  them  before  setting 
them  out.  They  require  a  soil  that  is  submerged  at 
least  a  small  part  of  the  year.  They  have  been  cul- 
tivated on  high  lands  with  tolerable  success  by  en- 
riching them  with  peat  and  meadow  muck. 

GOOSEBERRIES. 

These  are  propagated  the  same  as  currants  are. — 
They  are  more  apt  to  suffer  from  heat  and  drought ; 
they  should  therefore  be  planted  the  north  side  of 
buildings  or  walls,  in  a  deep  moist  soil.  They  are  sub- 
ject to  mildew.  To  prevent  this,  prune  liberally,  en- 
rich the  ground  with  wood  ashes,  lime  and  salt,  the 
latter  at  the  rate  of  two  quarts  per  square  rod.  They 
should  be  mulched  deeply. 

Croiun  Boh. — Large;  roundish-oval,  hairy,  red  and  of 
first  quality.  Measures  one  and  one  half  inches 
through.     Foreign. 


81 

Early  Sulphur, — Fruit  middle  size  and  very  early, 
roundish,  hairy;  flavor  first  rate. 

Farrow's  Roaring  Lion, — An  immense  berry  and 
hangs  late.     Fruit  oblong  and  smooth, flavor  excellent. 

Foreign. 

Houghton's  Seedling. — ''Rather  small;  oval;  skin  thin;  red- 
dish brown;  flesh  very  fine,  tender,  sweet  and  superior,  particu- 
larly for  tie  dessert.  A  prodigious  grower  and  great  bearer.  We 
set  small  layers,  and  the  next  year,  all  the  shoots  were  covered 
with  fruit.  Hiirdy;  the  only  kind  free  from  mildew.  Habits  like 
Crown  Bob." — CoU. 

GRAPES. 

Grapes  are  propagated  by  layers,  cuttings  and  by 
grafting  old  vines.  The  former  method  is  preferable. 
AYhere  grafting  is  pursued  it  is  necessary  to  defer  it 
until  the  vine  is  in  full  leaf  as  otherwise  it  suffers  from 
severe  bleeding.  The  scions  should  be  kept  as  other 
scions  are.  The  grape  vme  requires  a  liberal  prun- 
ing in  Nov.  or  Dec.  A  shoot  bears  but  one  year,  the 
fruit  being  wholly  on  the  previous  years  growth  of 
wood.  Hence  severe  pruning  induces  fruitfuhies. — 
The  practice  of  picking  off  leaves  at  midsummer  to 
expose  fruit  to  the  sun  is  inj  urious.  The  leaves  are 
required  to  perfect  the  sap  that  nourishes  the  fruit. — 
Vines  may  be  trained  to  walls,  buildings,  or  trellises 
either  in  the  fan  or  horizontal  manner  and  a  portion 
of  the  shoots  cut  back  every  year  so  that  the  vine 
shall  be  constantly  producing  new  and  bearing  wood. 
The  soil  proper  for  the  grape  is  a  deep,  rich,  dry  loam, 
resting  upon  a  dry  gravelly  subsoil.  The  crop  is  nei- 
ther so  sure  or  valuable  when  on  wet  grounds.  Ani- 
mal manure  is  good  for  growing  vines,  but  ashes,  coal 
dust,  Blacksmith's  sinders,  bone  chips,  and  soap  suds 
are  much  better  for  those  in  bearing. 

Grapes  may  be  preserved  for  winter  use,  simply  by 
picking  before  fully  ripe  when  they  are  free  from  dew 
and  packing  them  in  ajar  between  layers  of  cotton 
batting  or  fire  dried  sawdust. 

For  very  warm  situations,  wo  would  recommend  the 
Isabella  and  Catawba ;  but  unless  the  cultivator  has 


82 

such  a  situation,  it  is  useless  to  attemj^t  their  culture 
as  they  fixil  to  ripen.  It  is  supposed  that  the  Diai^a 
%vill  be  more  successful  in  cold  regions  and  is  there- 
fore attracting  a  good  deal  of  attention.  Perhaps  it 
would  be  best  for  the  cultivator  to  make  his  main  de- 
pendence upon  some  native  grape  of  his  own  partic- 
ular neighborhood,  as  these  are  usually  much  imprpv- 
ed  by  cultivation,  and  generally  ripen  well. 

Isabella. — "Bunches  large,  rather  compact,  shouldered.  Ber- 
ries large;  oval;  purplish,  with  blue  bloom;  skin  thick;  flesh  ten- 
der, with  little  pulp,  juicy,  sweet,  and  rich,  with  sliijht  musky  and 
arommic  flavor  liipens  in  N.  England  the  last  of  Sept.,  and  in 
Oct-" 

Catawda. — ''Bunches  medial;  loose;  shouldered ;berries  large; 
roundish  or  slightly  oval;  reddisli-purple;  with  a  purple  bloom; 
thick  skin;  flesh  a  litle  pulpy,  hut  juicy,  sweet,  with  a  rich,  mus- 
ky, aromatic  flavor.     Ripeiis  two  weeks  later  than  the  Isabella." 

Diana. — "Fruit  in  bunch  an  1  berry  very  much  like  its  parent, 
the  C^tawbri,  but  wiih  less  color.  Beiries  round;  juicy,  rich, 
sweet,  wilh, musky  aroma.  Ripei.s  about  the  time  of  Isabella. 
.Hardy,  vigorous,  and  productive." 

Shurtleff's  Seedling. — "Bunches  largre;  berries  medial; 
oval;  skin  thick,  lilac;  flesh  of  a  sweet,  rich  flavor.  Ripe  early 
in  September." — Cole. 

PEACHES. 

These  are  propagated  as  directed  upon  page  62. — 
Some  cultivators  plant  stones  of  the  best  varieties 
and  of  superior  native  seedlings  and  never  bud.  These 
trees  are  undoubtedly  more  hardy  than  the  budded 
trees  in  our  latitude,  and  many  of  them  produce  su- 
perior peaches. 

'•The  peach  will  flourish  in  any  friable  soil,  under  good  culture, 
but  the  best  soil  is  a  light  and  rather  dry  loom.  It  succeeds  well 
with  good,  deep  culture,  and  suitable  manure,  on  light,  sandy, 
and  gravelly  soils;  but  in  such  cases  it  is  necessary  to  guard 
against  severe  drought  by  manures,  inducing  moisture,  frequent 
stiring  of  the  soil,  mulching,  or  by  all  these  advantages.  Any 
soil  suitable  for  indian  corn  is  adapted  to  the  peach.  The  subsoil 
should  be  dry  and  porous." 

"Elevated  situations  are  best  for  the  peach,  especially  in  the 
North,  where  the  tree,  but  more  especially  the  blossom  buds,  are 
often  killed,  not  so  much,  perhaps,  by  severe  cold,  as  by  sudden 
changes  from  thawing  and  freezing,  and  the  reverse.     In  this  wa/ 


8;^ 

buds  are  often  killed  in  Dec.  and  Jan.,  as  may  be  seen  by  a  black 
speck  in  the  centre  of  the  bud,  indicating  its  destruction." 

"In  most  cases,  the  n(uth  sides  of  hills  Jind  ridges  are  preferable 
for  peaches;  there  is  less  heat  by  day,  and  less  fiost  by  night,  as 
the  north  wind,  which  prevails  in  the  time  of  frost,  prevents  its  se- 
verity. Owina  to  the  situation  of  some  sections  of  the  country, 
and  certain  currents  of  air,  this  rule  is  not  invariable." — Cole. 

The  peach  requires  a  yearly  prunmg  as  the  fruit  is 
borne  on  the  last  years  growth  of  wood.  The  best  meth- 
od is  to  shorten-in  the  branches  by  cutting  off  about  half 
of  the  length  of  the  new  wood,  either  in  the  fall  or 
early  in  the  spring.  Some  prefer  the  month  of  Aug. 
as  it  gives  time  for  the  wood  to  ripen  before  winter. 

There  is  a  disease  called  the  Yellows  very  destruc- 
tive to  the  peach.  Premature  ripening  of  the  fruit 
and  the  production  of  small  wiry  branches  a  few  inch- 
es in  length  are  the  symptoms  by  which  it  is  recog- 
nized. To  restore  an  orchard  affected  with  it^  exter- 
minate, root  and  branch  every  tree  that  has  the  Yel- 
lows; select  seeds  from  healthy  trees  and  from  dis- 
tricts where  the  disease  has  not  appeared,  and  finally 
keep  the  trees  in  a  good  condition  by  cultivation  and 
thorough  shortening-in, 

Coolebge's  Favohite. — "Leaves  with  glohose  glands.  Fruit 
large,  roundish(the  suture  prominent  at  the  iop  only),  but  rather 
the  tirgest  on  one  side.  Skin  clear  smooth  white,  with  a  fine 
crimson  mottled  cheek.  Flesh  very  melting  and  juicy,  with  a  rich, 
sweet,  and  high  flavor.     Middle  of  August.    Flowers  small." 

George  the  Fourth. — "Leaves  large,  with  globose  glands, 
often  obscure.  Fruit  large,  round,  deeply  divided  by  a  broad  su- 
ture, and  one  halt  a  little  larger  than  the  other.  Skin  pale,  yel- 
lowish white,  finely  dotted  with  bright  red,  and  deepening  into  a 
rich  dark  red  chec  k  on  one  side.  Flesh  pale,  marked  with  red  at 
the  stone(whieh  is  small),  melling,  juicy,  with  a  remarkably  rich, 
iuscfous  flavor.      Ripens  the  last  of  August.     Flowers  smiill." 

Grosse  Mignonne. — "Leaves  with  globose  glands.  Fruit  large, 
roundish,  always  somewhat  depressed  and  marked  wiili  a  hollow 
suture  at  the  top.  Skin  pale  greenish  yellow,  mottled  with  red. 
and  haviug  a  purplish  red  cheek.  Flesh  yellowish  white,  marked 
with  red  at  the  stone,  meltmg,  juicy,  with  a  very  rich,  high,  vi- 
nous flavor.  Stone  small  and  very  rough.  Middle  of  August,  be- 
fore the  Royal  George.     Flowers  large." 

Snow. — • 'Leaves  with  reniform  glands.  Fruit  large,  globular; 
suture  faintly  marked  except  at  t:..3  top.  Skin  thin,  clear  beautifuj 
white,  on  all  sides.     Flesh,  white  to  the  stone,  juicy,  and  melting 


84 

with  a  sweet,  rich,  and  sprightly  fTavor.  Beginning  of  Septennber. 
Flowers  small."— jDoxi'/im^. 

Crawford's  Early  Melocoton,  CrawforcVs  Early,  Hill's 
Lemon  liareripe.  Extremely  large;  roundish,  point  prominent; 
plight  suture;  yellow,  with  a  red  cheek;  flesh  yellow,  melting, 
rather  acid,  pretty  good.  1st  to  15th  of  Sept.  Hardy  vigorous 
and  productive.  Quality  medial,  but  salable,  from  its  size  and 
, beauty.     Globose  glands.     Small  flowers." 

"Crawford's  Late  Melocoton,  Crawford's  Superb.  Extreme- 
ly large;  roundish-oval,  slight  suture;  yellow;  nearly  half  cover- 
ed with  dark  red;  flesh  deep  yellow,  red  at  the  stone,  melting, 
juicy,  with  a  very  fine,  rich,  vinous  flavor.  Freestone.  Last  of 
Sept.  and  1st  of  Oct.  Hardy,  vigorous,  and  productive.  Glo- 
bo.se  glands.  Small  flowers.  Splendid,  beautiful,  one  of  the  fin- 
est."—  Cole. 

PEARS. 
Pears  are  propagated  by  grafting  or  budding  the 
more  choice  varieties  upon  seedHng  stocks.  The  best 
soil  for  the  pear  is  a  strong  loam  of  good  depth,  rest- 
ing on  a  dry  subsoil.  Moist  situations  are  not  favora- 
ble to  long  life  of  tree  or  perfection  of  fruit.  Care 
should  be  exercised  in  transplanting,  as  the  pear  has 
but  few  fibrous  roots.  Prune  out  only  dead  or  defec- 
tive limbs.  The  pear  is  affected  with  three  disorders 
similar  in  results,  called,  Frozen  Sap  Blight,  Insect 
Blight  and  Sun  Blight.  During  the  summer,  the  limbs 
turn  brown  or  black  and  the  leaves  wither.  As  a  pre- 
ventive, when  the  trees  make  wood  late  in  the  fall, 
prune  off  the  ends  of  the  roots  and  the  ends  of  the 
shoots  so  that  the  wood  will  ripen.  When  the  disease 
appears,  cut  off  immediately  the  affected  part  down 
to  perfectly  healthy  wood. 

"Gathering  AND  keeping  the  fruit. — The  pear  is  a  pecbliar 
fruit  in  one  respect,  which  should  be  always  kept  in  mind,  viz: — 
that  most  varietus  are  much  finer  in  flavor  if  picked  from  the  tree 
and  rij)ened  in  the  house,  than  if  allowed  to  become  fully  matured 
on  the  tree.  There  are  a  few  exceptions  to  this  rule,  but  they  are 
very  few.  And,  on  the  other  hand,  we  know  a  great  many  varie- 
ties which  are  only  second  or  third  rate,  when  ripened  on  the  tree, 
but  possess  the  highest  and  richest  flavor  if  gathered  at  the  prop- 
er time,  and  allowed  to  mature  in  the  house.  This  proper  season 
is  easily  known,  first,  by  the  ripening  of  a  few  full  grown,  but 
worm-eaten  specimens,   which  fall  soonest  from  the  tree;    and, 


85 

secondly,  by  tlie  chiingc  of  color,  and  the  readiness  of  the  stalk 
to  part  from  its  braiicli,  on  gently  raising  the  fruit.  The  fruit 
should  then  be  gailiered — or  so  much  of  the  crop  as  appears  suffi- 
ciently matured — and  spread  out  on  shelves  in  the  fruit  room  or 
upon  the  floor  of  the  garret.  Mere  it  will  gradually  assume  its 
full  color,  and  become  deliciously  melting  and  luscious. 

Winter  dessert  pears  should  be  allowed  to  hang  on  the  tree  as 
long  as  possible,  until  the  niarhts  become  frosty.  They  should 
then  be  wrapped  separately  in  paper,  packed  in  kegs^  barrels, 
or  small  boxes,  and  pla(;ed  in  a  cool,  dry  room,  free  from  frost. — 
Most  kinds  of  the  finer  winter  dessert  pears, should  be  brought  into 
a  warm  apartment  for  a  couple  of  weeks  before  their  usual  season 
of  maturity.  Thev  should  be  kept  covered,  to  prevent  shrivel- 
ling. —  Do  ivning , 

•Dwarf  Pears. — Dwarf  Pears  come  into  bearing 
much  sooner  than  standards  and  bear  more  abundant- 
ly. Most  of  the  market  pears  of  Europe  are  raised 
on  Dwarfs.  They  are  produced  by  root  pruning  small 
standards,  by  grafting  upon  the  Quince,  Mountain 
Ash,  and  our  native  Thorn  Bush.  Quince-bottomed 
Dwarfs  are  much  the  most  popular.  When  they  are 
very  thrifty  they  require  root  pruning  and  heading- 
in  once  in  one  or  two  years.  Where  the  soil  is  sandy 
or  gravelly,  clay  may  be  used  with  advantage  with 
the  compost  that  is  placed  about  the  tree.  All  pea  ^s 
do  not  succeed  well  on  the  Quince.  Those  marked 
with  a  *  in  the  following  list  are  adapted  to  the 
Quince. 

Madeleine.* — "Fruit  below  the  middle  size,  turbinate,  with  a 
thickening  on  one  side  of  the  stalk,  about  two  inches  and  three 
quarters  long,  and  two  inches  and  one  quarter  in  diameter.  Eye 
slightly  hollowed.  Stalk  an  inch  long,  slender,  rather  obliquely 
inserted.  Skin  yellowish  green,  with  a  little  light  bloom  upon  it, 
and  a  s'ight  tinge  of  red  when  fully  exposed  to  the  sun.  Flesh 
white,  melting,  buttery,  sweet,  and  highly  flavored.  Ripe  the 
latter  part  of  July." — Lijidley. 

Bloodgood. — "Fruit  of  medium  size,  turbinate,  inclining  to 
obovate,  thickening  very  abruptly  into  the  stalk.  Skin  yellow, 
sprinkled  with  russet  dots,  and  net-work  markings,  giving  it  a  ru8- 
setty  look  on  one  side.  Calyx  strong,  open,  set  almost  without 
depression.  Stalk  obliquely  inserted,  without  depression,  short, 
dark  brown,  fleshy  at  its  base.  Flesh  yellowish  white,  buttery, 
and  melting,  with  a  rich,  sugary,  highly  aromatic  flavor.  The 
thin  skin  has  a  musky  perfume.  Core  small.  Ripe  from  the 
26th  of  July  to  the  lOth  of  August." 


86 

RosTiEZER. — '^Fruit  of  medium  size,  oblong-p3'nform.  Siiir^ 
a  (lull,  yellowish-green,  with  a  leddish-brovvn  cheek,  and  whitish" 
dots,  light  russet.  Stalk  very  long,  nearly  two  inches,  irregular, 
slender,  set  with  very  little  depression.  (  ajyx  open,  but  little 
sunk.  Flesh  juicy,  a  little  coarse,  but  very  melt'ng,  sweet  and 
delicious,  with  a  rich  perfume.     August  and  September." 

Bartlett.* — "Fruit  of  large  size,  irregularly  pyramidal.  Skirt" 
very  thin  and  smooth,  clear  yellow,  (with  a  soft  blush  on  the  sunny 
side,  in  exposed  specimens, )rHrely  marked  with  faint  russet.  Stalk 
one  to  one  and  a  half  inches  long,  btout,  inserted  in  a  shallow, 
tiat  cavity.  Calyx  open,  set  in  a  very  shallow,  obscurely  plated 
basin.  Fle^h  white,  and  exceedinirly  fine-grained  and  buttery  3 
it  is  full  of  iuice,  sweet,  with  a  highly  perlumed,  vinous  flavor. — 
Ripens  from  the  last  of  August  to  the  middle  and  last  nf  Sep- 
tember."    The  most  popular  of  pears  in  this  region. — Downing. 

Flemjsh  Beauty.* — "Large;  obovate:  rooghish,  pale  yellow, 
with  marbling  russet,  brownish  in  the  sun;  stalk  IJ  inches  longy 
in  a  narrow  cavity;  calyx  open,  in  a  small  basin;  flesh  yellowish- 
white,  little  coarse,  melting,  juicy,  with  a  saccharine,  musky  fla- 
vor.' Sept.  into  Oct.  Gather  rather  early  and  ripen  in  the  house; 
sometimes  good  nearly  ripened  on  the  tree.  In  an  open  situation 
and  warm  soil,  it  comes  up  to  a  high  state,  and  ranks  among  the 
beSt;'    Great  grower,  and  bearer." 

Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey.'^ — "Large;  pyriform;  smooth,  pale 
green,  brownish-red  in  the  sun,  numerous  large  gray  dots;  stalk 
an  inch  long,  curved,  set  obliquely,  without  depression;  calyx 
open,  in  a  shallow  basin;  flesh  greetiish-white,  melting,  very  jui- 
cy, of  a  rich  and  excellent  flavor,  as  good  as  the  Bartlett.  Last 
of  Sept.,  and  Oct.  For  hardiness,  growth,  production,  uniform- 
fairness,  and  excellence,  this  frurt  is  very  promising.." — Cole. 

Seckel. — ''Fruit  small, (except  in  rich  soils, )regularly  formed, 
obovate.  Skin  brownish-green  at  first,  becoming  dull  yellowish- 
brown,  with  a  lively  russet  red  cheek.  Stalk  half  to  three-fourths  of 
an  inch  long,  slightly  curved, and  set  in  a  trifling  depression.  Calyx 
small,  and  placed  in  a  basm  scarcely  at  all  sunk.  Flesh  whitish, 
buttery,  very  juicy  and  melting,  with  a  peculiarly  rich,  spicy  flavor 
and  aronja.  It  ripens  gradually  in  the  house  from  the  endof  Au- 
^nist  to  the  l;isi   of  October. 

Duchesse  d'Angouleme.* — "Fruit  very  Targe,  oblong-obovate, 
with  an  uneven,  somewhat  knoby  surface.  Skin  dirll  greenish- 
yellow,  a  good  de;il  streaked  and  spotted  with  russet.  Stalk  one 
to  two  inches  long,  very  stout,  bent,  deeply  plated  in  an  irregular 
cavity.  Calyx  set  in  a  somewhat  knobby  basin.  Flesh  white, 
buttery,  and  very  juicy,  with  a  rich  and  very  excellent  flavor.  Oc- 
tober." On  the  quince,  in  warm  situations,  very  fine. — Doirning. 

WjnterNelis,* — "Medial;  roundish-obovate;  rough,  grayish- 
yellowish-green,  with  darker  green,  and  patches  of  brownish-rus- 
set;  stem  rather  long,  slim,  in  a  narrow  cavity;   calyx  open   in  a 


87 

s'hallow  basin;  fiosh  whitish,  fine,  melting,  very  juicy,  of  a  rich 
saccharine,  highly  luscious  Havor,  and  musky  perfume.'  Dec  and 
Jan  Hardy,  rrood  ^rrrower  and  productive;  and  fruit  uniformly 
good,  rhe  best  winter  pear  for  those  who  prefer  a  sweet  luscious 
flavor." — Cok. 

Those  who  would  like  a  larger  variety  will  find  the 
following  excellent.  Jar(/onelk%  Bummer  Frank  Real;^ 
Dearborn's  Seedling,  Golden  Beurre  of  Bilbodf',  J^elle  Lu- 
crative, Buff  urn,  WJdte  Doyenne^,  Urhaniste^-,  Van  Mon's 
Leon  le  Clerc,  Vicar  of  WinkfieW,  and  KnigJifs  Monarch. 

PLUMS. 

Plums  are  propagated  by  bndding  choice  varieties 
upon  seedling  stocks  of  any  free  growing  kinds.— 
Ihey  thrive  best  m  a  rich,  deep,  heavy  loam.  Ther^ 
are  some  knids  that  succeed  well  on  a  dry  soil  The^e 
are  marked  with  a  *  in  the  following  Hst. 
Fig.  17.  The  plum  is  often  injured  by  a  disease 
called  Knots  or  Black  Warts.  Fig.  17  rep- 
resents a  limb  covered  with  it.  "^  Writers 
are  not  agreed  as  to  its  cause,  but  all  rec- 
ommend that  it  be  cut  off  as  soon  as  it  ap- 
pears, and  the  wound  w-ashed  with  shellac 
and  alcohol  or  some  other  protective  mixt- 
ure. 

Early  Yellow  GAGE,---Branches  smooth,  short-jointed,  with 
glossy  leaves,  and  forming  a  large,  spreading  head.  Fruit  a  little 
above,  medium  size,  oval,  rather  broadest  towards  the  stalk  Su. 
iure  a  mere  Ime.  Skin  golden  yellow,  a  little  clouded,  and  cov- 
ered  with  a  copious  white  bloom.     Stalk  an  inch  long,  inserted  in 

Tnrttrh       '"''^-     ^^T""  ^^P  ^^'^^^^'  ^-^'  -g-^  ^"d   melt, 
ing,  though  sometimes  rather  dry;  parts  freely  from  the  stone.   Ri- 
pens  rather  early,  about  the  first  week  in  August  --Bowning. 
CxREEN  GAGE---Branches  smooth.    Fruit  middle  sized,  round 

sLT^KV"^''°''u"/"'''^'^'"^'"g^''^"^^h«  ^^talk  to  the  apex.- 
Stalk  half  an  inch  long,  a  little  bent,  and  inserted  in  a  small,  fun- 
nel-shaped cavity.  Skin  yellowish  green,  but  when  fully  exposed 
to  the  sun  of  a  purplish  color,  marbled  with  russety  muddy  red 
±lesh  yellowish  green,  very  melting,  and  separates  partly  from 
the  stone,  leaving  part  of  the  pulp  behind.'  Juice'  abundant, 
saccharine,  of  the  richest  and  most  exquisite  flavor.  Ripe  on 
open  stanaard  the  middle  of  August.^ '^Lindley.  ^ 

1  he  best  flavored  of  all  plums 

Imperial  Gage.*  -Large   medial;   oval,  distinct   suture;  pale 


88 

green,  with  a  yellow  tinge,  and  clowding  of  darker  green,  thick 
white  bloom;  stem  medial,  in  a  moderate  cavity;  flesh  greenish, 
melting,  very  juicy,  of  a  rich,  sprightly,  delicious  flavor.  Mostly 
freestone.  1  to  15  Sept.  A  vigorous  grower  and  prodigious 
bearer." — Cole. 

Jefferson. — "Branches  slightly  downy,  leaves  oval,  flat.  Fruit 
large,  oval,  slightly  narrowed  on  one  side,  towards  the  stalk. — 
Skin  golden  yellow,  with  a  beautiful  purplish-red  cheek,  and  cov- 
ered with  a  thin  white  bloom.  Stalk  an  inch  long,  pretty  stout, 
very  slightly  inserted.  Suture  indistinct.  Flesh  deep  orange, 
(like  that  of  an  Apricot,)  parts  freely,  and  almost  entirely  from 
the  stone,  which  is  long  and  pointed ;  very  rich,  juicy,  luscious  and 
high  flavored.     Hangs  a  lortnight  on  the  tree." — Downing. 

Coe's  Golden  Drop.* — "Fruit  oval,  of  the  largest  size  among 
Plums,  about  two  inches  and  a  half  long,  and  two  inches  in  diam- 
eter, deeply  marked  by  the  suture,  pitted  at  the  point,  abruptly 
tapering  and  hollowed  out  at  the  base  for  the  reception  of  the 
stalk.  Stalk  three  quarters  of  an  inch  long,  slender.  Skin 
greenish  yellow,  with  numerous  red  spots  of  bright  violet  red  next 
the  sun.  Flesh  greenish  yellow,  adhering  firmly  to  the  stone. — 
Juice  very  sweet  and  delicious.  Stone  sharp  pointed."  October. 
— Lindley. — Requires  a  warm  situation  to  perfect  it. 

The  Peach  Plum,  M'Laughlin%  Royal  Hative,  Egg 
Plum,  Cruger's  Scarlet*,  Lawrence's  Favorite,  Schen- 
ectady Catharine,  Smith's  Orleans,  Columbia,  Lom- 
bard*, and  Blue  Imperatrice  are  all  excellent  plums. 

QUINCES. 

Quinces  are  propagated  by  seed,  cuttings,  or  layers. 
They  will  succeed  in  a  deep,  rich  soil,  either  wet,  or 
dry.  There  are  three  kinds  ;  the  Apple-shaped,  the 
Pear-shaped,  and  the  Portugal.  The  former  is  the 
most  popular  as  it  produces  more  abundantly  and  is 
earlier  than  the  others.  The  Portugal  is  very  fine 
flavored  but  a  shy  bearer. 

EASPBEREIES. 

This  fruit  requires  a  deep,  moist  soil.  It  is  propa- 
gated by  suckers  or  offsets  of  old  roots.  The  fruit  is 
borne  on  the  canes  of  the  last  year's  growth,  which 
die  down  after  the  crop  is  ripened.  The  old  canes, 
when  dead,  should  be  removed  and  the  young  ones 
cultivated. 

jRed  Antzuerp. — This  is  a  large,  delicious,  deep  red 
berry ;  extremely  hardy  and  prolific. 


•89 

White  Antwerp. — This  is  a  large  and  very  excellent 
fruit,  of  a  dull  yellow  color.  Canes  rather  tender  for 
cold  situations. 

Fastolf. — One  of  the  best  of  raspberries.  Fruit 
dull  red,  juicy,  melting,  highly  perfumed,  and  very 
prolific. 

Franconia. — A  choice  French  variety.  Fruit  large, 
dull  red,  melting,  juicy,  and  perfumed.  Very  pro- 
lific. 

STRAWBERRIES. 

This  most  delicious  fruit  should  be  found  in  every 
garden.  It  propagates  itself  very  rapidly  by  runners, 
which  take  root  and  send  up  new  plants.  These-  are 
usually  taken  up  in  August  and  set  in  the  permanent 
bed.  The  ground  should  be  spaded  from  one  to 
two  feet  deep  and  thoroughly  manured.  Set  the 
plants  in  rows  two  feet  apart  and  from  six  to  twelve 
inches  apart  in  the  row.  Keep  free  of  weeds  and  be- 
fore the  fruit  ripens,  place  clean  straw  or  new  mown 
grass  around  the  plants  to  preserve  the  berries  clean. 
Some  lay  out  their  ground  in  beds  three  feet  wide, 
leaving  a  space  of  three  feet  between  the  beds.  Set 
in  each  bed  three  rows  of  plants,  12  inches  apart  in 
the  rows.  The  third  year,  spade  the  space  between 
the  beds,  liberally  enrich  them,  and  permit  the  run- 
ners to  take  root  in  them.  The  fourth  spring  from 
setting,  dig  up  the  old  beds  and  use  them  for  walks. 
To  produce  large  and  perfect  crops  of  fruit,  the  beds 
should  have  a  yearly  coating  of  manure  and  liberal 
waterings  from  the  time  they  blossom  till  the  fruit  is 
nearly  perfected.  The  blossoms  of  wild  vines  have 
stamens  and  pistils,  and  are  called  hennorphrodite  or 
perfect  blossoms ;  those  of  some  of  the  many  seed- 
lings now  popular  are  staminate  or  male,  and  some  jk'W- 
tillate  or  female.  The  last  two  kinds  do  not  bear  well 
when  planted  alone.  The  course  pursued  by  success- 
ful cultivators,  is  to  plant  a  row  of  staminate,  then 
three  or  four  rows  of  pistillate,  alternating  the  one 


90 

with  the  other.     Under  this  treatment  enormous  crops 
of  fruit  are  raised. 

Large  Early  Scarlet. — Fruit  large,  scarletf  juicy, 
melting  and  richly  perfumed ;  prolific.     Staminate. 

Boston  Pine. — Fruit  large,  deep  red,  juicy,  and  of 
delicious  flavor.     Staminate. 

Black  Prince. — Fruit  large,  dark  polished  red  ap- . 
proaching  black,  flesh  firm  and  of  excellent  flavor. — 
Pistillate.     Requires  a  staminate  with  it. 

Hoveifs  Seedling. — Fruit  extremely  large,  deep  scar- 
let, flesh  firm,  with  a  rich  delicious  flavor.  A  prodig- 
ious bearer.  Pistillate.  The  most  popular  strawber- 
ry in  the  U.  S.  Plant  Early  Scarlet  or  Boston  Pine 
with  it. 

Burr's  New  Pine. — Fruit  large,  crimson,  sweet,  rich 
and  aromatic.     Pistillate. 


111^  'iTiiiiiis 


Soil. — The  plants  cultivated  in  our  gardens  were 
gathered  from  various  countries,  and  therefore  require 
a  diversity  of  soils.  The  kind  adapted  to  most  of  them 
is  a  deep  friable  loam,  that  pulverizes  easily,  in  which 
sand  exists,  but  does  not  predominate.  Some  require 
a  soil  composed  almost  entirely  of  savannah;  others, 
one  the  chief  constituent  of  which  is  sand. 

Laying  out  the  grounds. — "Having  obtained  the  proper  soil,  the 
next  step  is  to  lay  out  the  grounds,  which  must  be  governed  in 
some  degree  by  their  shape  and  location,  but  mainly  by  the  taste 
of  the  proprietor.  Some  are  pleased  with  regular  beds  and  bor- 
ders— others  can  see  no  beuaty  in  straight  lines,  and  form  their 
grounds  into  ovals,  circles,  and  irregular  figures  of  many   forms. 


Perhaps  a  lunoii  ol  ti»e  Ivvo  iiidcics  is  tiie  truer  taste;  in  either 
Case  they  should  he  edged  with  neatness,  and  lor  that  purpose 
box-wood,  the  vein.il  ijis,  thrift,  grass,  Sec.,  are  used;  where  it 
is  desired  to  combine  utility  and  orn;iinent,  the  strawberry  may 
be  used  with  advantage  That  work  performed,  it  then  becomes 
necessary  to  eniich  the  soil,  or  suj)ply  the  exhaustion  of  repeated 
cropping;  for  this  purpose,  in  the  flower-garden,  decomposed 
manure  and  such  as  is  least  likely  to  contain  the  seeds  of  weeds, or 
grasses,  only  should  be  used.  It  may  be  applied  immediately 
]>receding  the  spring  digging,  or,  which  is  preferable,  in  the  au- 
tumn. At  the  proper  time,  in  the  spring,  the  ground  should  be 
deeply  du(j  and  thorou<rhly  pulverized,  preparatory  to  receiving 
the  seeds  " — Flower  Gardener. 

Annuals  mid  Biennials. — These  are,  as  a  general  thing, 
sliowj  plants,  and,  altlioiigh  they  require  more  atten- 
tion than  perennials,  they  well  repay  the  care  neces- 
sary to  their  cultivation.  Many  of,  the  seeds  are  ex- 
ceedingly small,  therefore,  should  be  carefully  plant- 
ed. Some  require  to  be  covered  an  inch  deep,  oth- 
ers should  be  scattered  upon  the  top  of  the  ground 
and  kept  moist  until  they  sprout.  Everj^  cultivator 
should  regard  the  size  of  the  seed  when  determining 
the  depth  to  which  they  should  be  planted.  Even 
when  planted  by  skillful  hands  many  seeds  fail  to  ger- 
minate. The  Double  LarJcspur,  all  varieties  of  Poppies, 
Gillia,  Pinks,  Evening  Primrose,  Coreopsis,  Cupress  Pine, 
Marvel  of  Peru,  Balsamines,  and  some  other  kinds,  suc- 
ceed best  when  sown  just  before  the  ground  closes  in 
the  fall.  Other  hardy  annuals  may  be  sown  in  the 
open  ground  from  April  to  June  ;  half  hardy  annu- 
als in  May,  and  tender  annuals,  the  last  of  May  or 
first  of  June.  Where  the  cultivator  has  the  conven- 
ience of  hot  beds,  it  is  well  to  start  many  kinds  in 
them,  and  transplant  to  the  open  ground  about  the 
first  of  June.  The  following  plants  are  not  usually 
successfully  transplanted,  therefore  should  be  sown 
where  they  are  to  stand.  Annual  Sunflower,  convol- 
volus — Major  and  Minor,  Candy  Tuft,  Dwarf  Lychnis, 
Dwarf  Poppy,  Nigella,  Flos  Adonis,  Larkspur,  Lobels, 
Catchfly,  Lupines,  Lavatiera,  Hawk  Weed,  Scarlet  Pea, 
Sweet-scented  Pea,  Tangier  Pea,  Yenus'  Looking  Glass, 
A^'enus'  Navel  Wort. 


D2 

Annuals  perfect  their,  flowers  and  seed  in  the  fall 
from  the  seed  sown  in  the  spring,  then  die;  Biennials 
blossom  the  second  year  after  sowing,  and  then  die  or 
decline  ;  and  Perennial  plants  bloom  year  after  year, 
and  are  propagated  either  by  seed  or  dividing  roots. 
The  following  list  of  Annuals  and  Biennials  will  pro- 
duce a  fine  show  of  flowers  most  of  the  season,  ha, 
stands  for  hardy  annual ;  hha,  half  hardy  annuals ; 
ta,  tender  annuals ;  hb,  hardy  biennials,  &c. 

ha,  Asters,  Chinese  and  German,  many  varieties,  beautiful. 

ta,    Balsams,  double  and  single,  various  colors,  superb. 

hb,   Canterbury  Bells,  blue  and  white,  fine. 

ha,   Candytuft,  various  colors. 

ha.   Coreopsis,  many  kinds,  some  perennial. 

ha,   Calchfly,  white  and  large  clustered. 

ha,   Chrysanthemum,  \vhile  and  yellow,  showy. 

ta,    Clarkia,  divers  colors,  very  pretty. 

ta,    Coxcomb,  several  colors,   bears  cold  better  than  too  hot  sun. 

ha.  Erysimum,  yellow. 

ha.   Eternal  flower,  divers  colors,  fine  for  drying. 

ha,  Eschscholtzia,  many  kinds. 

ha,   Forget-me  not,  blue. 

hb.   Foxglove,  white,  red  and  yellow. 

ha,  Flos  Adonis,  scarlet. 

ha,   Gili'i,    many  colors. 

ha,   Hawkweed,  golden,  purple  and  silvery. 

ha.   Hibiscus,  African. 

hb,  Honesty,  curious. 

ha,  Larkspur,  various  kinds,  very  fine. 

ha,  Love-lies-bleeding,   red. 

ha,  Lupins,  mixed,  fine. 

hha,   Marigolds,  mixed,  very  showy. 

ha,  Marvel  of  Peru,  mixed. 

ha.   Mignonette,  odorous,  perfumes  the  garden  or  house. 

ha.   Morning  Glory,  a  climbing  and  showy  plant, 

ha*  Nasturtiums,   free  bloomers,  showy,  climbers. 

ha  or  p,   Pansies,  mixed,  one  of  the  most  choice  of  florists'  floM^ers. 

ha,  Sweet  Peas,  mixed,  delicate  flowers,  climbers. 

ha.   Poppies,  many  varieties,  showy. 

ha,   Phlox,  Drummond's,  20  var.,  elegant.. 

hha,  Portulaca,  many  colors,  fine. 

ha,  Petunia,  divers  colors,  beautiful,  should  be  in  every  garden. 

hhb,  Stocks,  Queen  and  Brompton,  splendid. 

ha.   Verbenas,  40  var.,  elegant,  no  finer  flowers. 

a,    Zinnia. 

Perennials.— These  afford  a  fine  display  of  flowers  from  spring 


93 

till  full.     They  are  mostly  pi'opfigated  by  layering  or  dividing  old 

roots.     Some  few  are  rairfejd  from  slips. 

lip,  Aconitum,  very  hardy  and  showy,  but  poisonous. 

hp,   Bee  Larkspur. 

hp,  Cardinal  Flower. 

bp,  Carnations,  beautiful  winter  pot-flowers,  propagated  by  lay- 
ers or  seed. 

hlrp,  Chrysanthemum,  Indian,  should  be  removed  to  the  house  in 
pots  before  frosts.  •'# 

hp,   Campanula  pyr.unidalis,   produces  pyramidal  clusters. 

hp,  Picoiee,   superb  pot-flower,  by  seed  or  layers. 

hp.   Columbine,  many  colors,  fine.  '* 

hp.  Gentians. 

hp,  Hollyhocks,  double  and  single,  divers  colors,  superb. 

hp,   London  Pride,  gorgaous. 

hp,  Monkey  flower,   requires  a  moist  sitution. 

hp.  Pea,  Everlasting,   requires  support. 

hp,   Phlox,   various  colored,  elegant  and  showy. 

hp,  Pinks,  China,  Clove,  and  i'heusant's-eye,  fragrant,  fine. 

hp,  Primrose,   beautiful  for  border  or  pot. 

hp,  Sweet  William,  very  fragrant. 

hp.  Valerian,   showy  border  flowers. 

hp,   Wall  Flower,  brilliant. 

Bulbous  Roots. — These  are  general  favorites.  The 
beauty  of  theu'  flowers  and  their  agreeable  odor  make 
them  very  popular.  The  following  directions  for  their 
culture  w6  copy  from  Mr.  Hovey's  Catalogue. 

In  the  Open  Ground. — "The  proper  season  for  planting  all  the 
hardy  kinds  is  during  the  months  of  October  and  November;  in 
favorable  seasons  they  may  be  planted  later;  but  they  will  flower 
stronger  if  put  into  the  ground  not  later  than  the  middle  of  No- 
vember. They  are  of  the  easiest  cultivation,  and  will  grow  and 
flower  well  in  any  tolerable  good  garden  soil,  but  flourish  best  in 
a  light  soil,  made  rich  with  thoroughly  decomposed  manure.  Let 
the  ground  be  dug  or  trenched  a  good  spade  deep,  and  made  fine 
and  light — if  it  is  intended  to  plant  the  roots  in  beds,  make  them 
about  four  feet  wide,  and  of  any  convenient  length,  and  raise  them 
two  or  three  inches  above  the  surrounding  paths.  Hyacinths, 
'J'ulips,  Lilies,  Crown  Imperials,  Double  Narcissus,  and  Jonquils, 
should  be  planted  about  four  inches  deep;  Crocusses,  Snowdrops, 
Frilillarias  and  Sj)anish  Iris,  two  inches;  English  Iris  and  Poly- 
anthos  Narcissus,  six  inches,  and  from  six  to  eight  mches  apart, 
each  way,  when  grown  in  beds.  When  planted  in  borders,  or  on 
the  side^of  walks,  they  look  best  in  clumps  or  patches,  each 
clump  to  contain  enough  roots,  rather  thickly  planted,  to  produce, 
when  in  bloom,  a  mass  of  flowers.  Hyacinths  and  Tulips  of 
different  colors  produce  a  fine  effect,  when  planted  in  this  manner, 


94 

which  is  preferable  to  scattering  them  over  the  border,  afid  afsar 
renders  it  more  convenient  to  protect  bulbous  roots  from  disturb- 
ance in  digging  and  cultivating  the  ground. 

In  Pots. — Hyacinths,  Double  Roman  and  Polyanthus  Narcis- 
sus, Early  Tulips,  Jonquils,  and  Crocusses,  are  all  proper  for 
cultivation  in  pots,  and  make  a  beautiful  display  in  the  parloar  or 
green-house,  during  the  winter. 

Pots  of  five, six  or  more  inches  in  diameter,  according  to  the  num- 
ber of  roots  to  be  grown  in  each,  should  be  filled  with  rich  light 
soil,  and  the  bulbs  planted  very  shallow,  just  covering  them  with 
the  soil;  give  a  moderate  sprinkling  of  water,  to  settle  the  soil 
about  them,  and  place  the  pots  in  any  convenient  spot,  protected 
from  the  sun  and  wind,  until  the  roots  commence  growing,  wh€n 
they  should  be  exposed  to  the  sun  and  light  as  much  as  possible. 
When  kept  in  parlours  or  rooms  where  the  air  is  generally  very 
dry,  they  require  water  often,  and  the  best  way  is  to  set  the  pots 
in  saucers,  with  water  daily.  A  solution  of  guano  water,  made  by 
dissolving  a  tea-cup  full  of  guano  in  four  gallons  of  water,  and 
applied  once  or  twice  a  week,  on  the  surfaee  of  the  soil,  will  give 
them  a  more  vigorous  growth,  and  also  add  to  the  brilliancy  of 
their  col©rs. 

In  Glasses. — Hyacinths  and  Polyanthos  Narcissus  tiower  freely 
in  glasses;  the  single  varieties  ot  the  Hyacinth  being  generally 
preferred  for  this  mode  of  cnlture. 

Remove  any  offsets  that  may  be  attached  to  the  bulbs,  and  af- 
ter placing  them  in  the  glasses,  fill  up  with  clear  rain  water,  just 
to  the  bottom  of  the  bulbs,  then  set  them  in  a  dark  room  or  closet 
until  the  roots  have  grown  two  inches,  when  they  may  be  exposed 
to  the  full  light,  and  any  waste  of  water  by  evaporation  must  be 
regulaily  supplied.  The  water  should  l)€  renewed  every  "five  or 
BIX  daya,  always  taking  care  whmi  fresh  water  is  ssipplied,  that  it 
is  of  a  milk  warm  temperature.  Should  any  green  matter «olkci 
on  the  roots,  draw  them  out  of  the  glasses  and  rinse  them  care- 
fully in  clean  water. '^ 

We  think  that  the  following  will  afford  ^atisftictoiy 
flowers*     Those  who  desire  a  larger  collection  are  re- 
ferred to  the  catalogues  of  respectable  florists. 
HYACINTHS. 

A  la  Mode,  double  light  blue,  dtrk  eye. 

Anna  Maria,  double  whit©,  purple  eye. 

Lord  Koel,  double  lilac  blue. 

Mars,  single  crimson. 

j^ini/ms,' single  light  blue,  extra. 

Grootvorst,  double  rose^  large  and  Hne. 

^Rppelius,  sin^He  crimson,  very  fine.  % 

Prime  cf  Waterloo,  d nuhie  white,  superb„ 

Louis  d'Or,  dojhle  yellow,  red  eye. 

jyim/odj  single  light  blue,  extra. 


n 

TULIPS. 

Tulips  are  divided  into  Bkarres,  Byhhemem^  Hoses 
and  JSelfs.  Bizarres  have  yellow  grounds,  broken  or 
variegated  with  Various  shades  from  red  to  black ;  By- 
bloemens  have  white  grounds  with  various  shades  of 
purple  and  violet ;  Rose  Tulips  have  white  grounds 
variegated  with  rose  and  cherry  color ;  Selfs  are  of 
one  color.  Those  having  feather  edges  are  called 
Parrot  Tulips. 

Early  Tulips. — Bride  of  Harlem,  Canary  Bird,  Isabella,  Clar- 
amoivd,  Ma  Favorite,  Yellow  Rose  and  Rose  Florentine. 

BiZARREs. — Cato,  Trafalgar,  Prince  of  Orange,  Duke  of  Wel- 
lington, Regent,  and  Liberty. 

Bybloemrns. —  Cleopatra,  Ely's  Victoria,  Incomparable,  Prince 
of  Tulips,  Washington,  Queen  of  May. 

Rose. — Heroine,  Hebe,  Vesta,  Walworth,  Cameux,  Cerise,  and 
Diana. 

POLYANTHOS   NARCISSUS. 

Grand  Monarch,  white  and  citron. 

Soleil  d'Or,  yellew  and  orange. 

Double  Roman,  double  cnps. 

Grand  Prima,  white  and  citron. 

DOUBLE  AND  SINGLE  NARCISSUS. 
Double  White,  Orange  Phanix,    Poets,  Incomparable,  Trumpet 
Major,  CampernelVs. 

JONQUILS. 

Sweet  Scented  and  Single. 

IRIS, 

English,  Spanish,  and  Susiana. 

CROCUS. 

Golden  Yellow,  Large    White,  and   Blue,   Prince   Albert,    and 

Queen  Victoria. 

CROWN  IMPERIALS. 
Red,  and  Yelloit,  single  and  double. 
LILIES. 
Chalcedom^cum,  scarlet. 
Lancifolium  album,  white. 
— punctatum,  pink  spotted. 


Martagon  album,  white. 
Tigrinum,  tiger  spotted. 
Testaceum,  buff  spotted. 
Umbellatum,  orange. 
Blue  Japan  Day  Lily  . 
White  Japan,  splendid. 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
Ranunculus,    Anemonies,  Fritillarias,    Gladiolus,    Colchicums, 
^ci)mt€$,  and  Arums, 


— rubrum,  crimson  spotted. 
Bright  Yellow  Day  Lily, 


96 

Tuberous  Roots. — These  are  propagated  by  dividing 
the  roots,  which  are  fleshy  and  multiply  very  fast. — 
They  are  usually  dug  late  in  the  fall  and  kept  iii  dry 
sand  in  a  cool,  dry  cellar  during  the  winter.  Some  re- 
main in  the  ground  over  winter.  They  should  have 
a  rich  mellow  soil. 

Jlsclepias  Tn6ero.sa— produces  orange  flowers  in  Au«:.  and  Sept. 

Madeira  Vine — grows  thirty  feet,  has  white,  sweet  scented 
flowers. 

HermerQcqllis  Flava — has  yellow  lily-like  flowers, 
**  Fulva — buff  flowers. 

Pceonia — has  double  flowers  of  various  colors.  They  stand  out 
during  winter.  We  think  the  following  will  prove  satisfactory. — 
Superb  double  White,  Double  Rose,  Double  Red,  Sweet  Scented, 
Chinese  double  purple  crimson,  Double  Blush,  Double  Lilac, 
Double  dark  Crimson. 

DAHLIA. 

*'From  the  middle  o,f  May  to  the  middle  of  June,  is  the  time  to 
plant  the  Dahlia  in  this  latitude.  It  will  grow  on  almost  any  kind 
of  soil,  but  sandy  loam  suits  it  best:  a  single  tuber  with  one  sprout, 
is  enough  to  make  a  good  plant.  Dig  a  hole  of  the  size  of. the 
tuber,  and  four  inches  deep — lay  it  in  flat,  and  cover  it.  up;  ,  do 
not  let  more  than  one  shoot  arise  from  it,  and  displace  all  laterals 
the  first  twelve  inches  from  the  ground,  above  that  let  it  branch. 
Drive  a  stick  two  or  three  inches  in  diain^'ter,  and  of  a  length 
suitable  to  the  growth  of  the  plant,  into  the  ground,  close  16  tlie 
side  of  each  plant.  The  plant  is  to  be  lied  to  the  stick  as  it  ad- 
vances in  growth;  this  will  prevent  its  being  blown  down  and  de- 
stroyed by  high  winds.  If  ihe  head  gets  crowded,  cut  out  some  of 
its^branches.  September  is  the  month  in  which  the  Dahlia  shows 
its  pride.  As  soon  as  the  frost  has  killed  down  the  top,  cut  ofl'the 
stem  six.  inches  from  its  base,  and  dig  up  the  root  carefully;  after 
drying  two  days  in  the  sun,  pack  it  in  a  box  with  dry  earth,  and 
place  it  in  a  cool,  airy  part  ol  the  cellar."  •         '  y 

In  the  follow^ing  spring  during  the  month  of  April, 
plant  the  tubers  in  a  hot  bed  and  after  thoy  have  sprout- 
ed separate  them  from  the  old  stem  and  when  it  be- 
comes warm,,  set  them  into  their  permanent  places,— 
If  there  is  not  a  hot  bed  neay.  start  them  in  a  .box  in 
a  warm  kitchen.     We  oiler  tJio  following  list. 

Desdemona,  primrose. 
Mrs,  Jones,  dove  color. 
Admiral,  lilac,  fine  form. 
FA  Dorado,  pale  yellow,  fine. 
Fearless,  lilac  extra  fine. 


117 

JLni.  Mrs.  Aahleij,  waxy  peach,  tipped  and  decked  witli  rose. 

JV/7  Drspcrnndum,  vivid  scarlet. 

Jeancfte,  carmine  tipped  witli  white. 

MisK  Wcijland,  amber  edged  wiih  scarlet  and  tipped  wliite. 

Duke  of  Cambvid^c,  silvery  lilac. 

BeauUj  of  Fkiladc/pliia,  yellow  tipped  with  rose. 

Beaulij  of  England,  white  edged  with  crimson. 

FJiifadAphia,  white  spotted  with  purple. 

Ralnbnm,  yellow  edged  with  purple. 

Miss  Percivaf  pure  white. 

Argo,  pure  yellow. 

Otliello,  dark  maroon. 

Scarlet  Gem,  scarlet. 

ROSES. 

"Plant  out  all  everbloominor  roses  in  spring;  those  tliat  bloom 
once  a  year  should  be  pl.inted  out  in  fall.  Dig  out  large  holes 
eighteen  inches  deep,  and  mix  the  earth  with  one  third  oi'  its  size 
of  very  short  manure,  or  black  iRould  from  the  woods.  Fill  up 
the  holes  to  nine  inches  deep,  plac^  the  plants  in  them  in  a  way 
that  all  their  roots  will  lay  out  in  their  natural  positions;  fdl  up 
the  holes  and  tramp  the  earth  firm  about  their  roots." 

"A  rose  left  to  nature  would-soon  become  a  confusion  of  shoots 
— the  flowers  would  be  few,  small,  and  single.  The  finest  flowers 
are  produces  on  young  shoots,  of  the  previous  year's  growth.  So 
all  shoots  over  two  years  old,  should  be  cut  out  every  spring.  If 
the  plant  is  a  bush,  prune  it  in  a  neat  and  symmetrical  manner; 
if  it  covers  a  fence,  pillar,  arbour.  Sec,  train  up  the  young  shoots 
where  the  old  ones  were:  but  do  not  cross  one  shoot  over  another. 
The  shoots  on  a  fence  or  building  should  be  four  inches  apart." 

"Late  in  the  fall,  get  a  strong  stick  as  long  as  the  height  of  the 
rose,  drive  it  tirraly  in  close  to  its  side,  tie  up  all  th'3  branches  of 
the  rose  around  it;  then  cover  it  with  long  straw,  beginning  at 
the  bottom;  place  the  straw  in  a  standing  manner  around  it,  and 
tie  neatly  up  with  twine.  If  more  than  one  length  of  straw  is 
needed,  let  the  upper  tiers  lap  over  the  lower — so  as  to  carry  ofl' 
the  rains  and  melting  snows." 

"The  v/inter  covering  should  never  be  removed  until  the  frost 
is  entirely  out  of  the  ground,  and  not  until  after  March.  A  wet 
or  cloudy  day  should  be  taken  for  the  removal.  The  frosts  get 
through  the  straw  and  into  the  shoots  of  the  rose,  and  it  takes  as 
long  to  draw  it  out  of  them  as  out  of  the  ground.  If  they  were 
uncovered  while  the  frost  was  in  the  shoots,  they  would  likely 
all  die." 

Growing  Roses  in  Pols. — "Get  sods  three  inches  thick  from  an 
old  pasture,  lay  it  in  a  heap,  and  turn  it  over  two  or  three  times 
in  a  year,  breaking  it  fine  every  time  it  is  turned  over.  Three 
parts  of  this,  one  part  of  very  short  well-rotted  manure,  and  one 
part  of  sharp  sand,  mixed  well   together,   are  an   excellent   com- 


t)8 

post  for  ros«s.  The  ingredients  should  be  mixed  some  time  be- 
fore using,  so  that  they  may  become  incorporated.  If  the  soil 
from  which  the  sod  is  taken  be  of  a  sandy  nature,  no  sand  will  be 
needed  in  the  compost;  if  it  be  a  stiff  clay,  more  sand  will  be 
needed.  B'ack  mould  from  the  woods  is  better  than  manure  to 
mix  in  the  compost.  A  quart  of  fresh  slacked  lime,  or  charcoal 
dust,  mixed  in  a  bushel  or  the  compost,  serves  to  kill  worms  and 
other  insects  which  may  be  in  ii.  They  should  not  get  too  much 
heat,  nor  too  much  water  in  winter,  but  give  them  as  much  light 
as  possible." 

Climbing  Roses.  Michigan,  flowers  clustered. 

Queen  of  the  Prairies^    magnificent   flowers  in 
,  clusters. 

Ballimore  Belle,  rose  colored. 
Perpetual  Pink,  fine. 
Boursalt'Roses.  Amadis  crimson. 

Blush,  pale  flesh  colored. 
Elegans  purple  striped. 
Ayrshire  Roses.  Sjilendcns,  creamy,  white. 
Noistte  Roses.  Bengal  Lee,  creamy  white  or  blush. 

Conque  de  Venus,  creamy  vvhite  with  dark    centre. 
Cloth  of  Gold,  deep  sulphur  yellow,  fragraint. 
Ftllenberg,  bright  crimson. 
Lutea,  pale  yellow,  double  flowers. 
Ophire,  orange  yellow  tinged  with  red. 
Washington,  pure  white. 
Hybrid  Roses,  Brennus,  scarlet  and  large. 
Coup  de  Hebe,  delicate  pink. 
Duke  of  Devonshire,  rosy  lilac  striped  with  white. 
George  the  IV,  crimson,  beautiful  and  large. 
Abbe  Berlese,  crimson  spotted  with  violet. 
Camaieu,  delicate  rose  with  lilac  stripes, 
^awr/ewr,  bright  rose    color,    spotted    and    striped 

with  white. 
Reine  des  Beiges,  lilac. 
Ij'Isle  de  Bourbon  Roses.  Anna  Beluze,  waxy  blush. 

Henry  Clay^  carmine. 
Duval,  scarlet  crimson. 
Mad.  Desprez,  dark  rose. 
Paul  Joseph,  brilliant  crimson. 
Tea  Roses.   Clara  Sylvain,  pure  white. 
Magnolia,  yellowish  white. 

Eliza  Sauvage,  pale  yellow.  <% 

Elvira,  creamy,  blush,  tinted  with  rose 
Flavescens,  pale  straw  color,  beautiful. 
Floralie,  blush,  rare. 
Adorata,  fine  blush. 
Princess  Marie,  flesh  color. 


91) 

Moss  Roses,  hath  White,  very  mossy. 

Luxembourg,  deep  crimson. 

Crested,  mossy  and  fine. 

Pnncess  Royal,  darkest  crimson,  fine, 

ORNAMENTAL  SHRUBS. 

These  are  usually  propagated  by  cuttings,  layersy 
muckers,  and  hy  budding  and  grafting.  A  full  descrip- 
tion may  be  found  in  the  fruit  department  of  this  work. 
They  need  an  occasional  pruning  of  dead  and  strag- 
ling  limbs.  Some  are  half  hardy  and  require  protec- 
tion;  see  roses. 

Dwarf  double- flowering  Almond,  a  very  beautiful  shrub,  about 
three  feet  high;   blooms  profusely.  • 

Azalea,  a  magnificent  shrub,  flowers  of  all  shades  from  white 
to  brilliant  flame. 

Pyrus  Japonica^  blossoms  very  early,  whilst 

'•Winter  lingers  in  the  lap  of  Spring." 

Siycei  scented  sh^ib,  has  fragrant,  strawberry-scented  flowers. 

FringTr^e,  has  white  flowers  which  hang  like  a  fring;  of  great 
beauty. 

Southernwood,  fragrant  foliage. 

Deutzia  Scabra,  pr^uces  white  flowers^^  resembliTig  the  Mock 
Orange. 

Althea,  many  colors,  double  and  single,   all  fine. 

Golden  Chain    produces  long  clusters  of  yellow  flowers. 

Jupan  Globe  Flo^cer,  a  profuse  bloomer;   hardy. 

Missouri  Currant,  hardy  and  flowers  abundantly.  , 

Guelder  Rose,  or  Snowball,  a  showy  shrub,  produceB  largf 
balls  ot  .snow-white  flowers  in  May. 

Syringa,  or  Mock  Orange,  produces  highly  perfumed  flowers. 

Snowberry,  has  pink  flowers  in  .spring  and  white  berries  in  fall, 

'Smoke  Tree,  looks  like  a  light  cloud  of  smoke,  when  in  bloom. 

Lilac,  fine  blooiBer,  hardy  and  fragrant.  It  has  white  antii 
purple  flowers. 

Rkododendron,  i«  of  the  Laurel  tribe  and  very  beautiful;  re- 
quires moist  soil  and  shade. 

PARLOR  PLANTS. 

The  soil  proper  for  pot  plants,  is  composed  of  pBat^ 
leaf  mould,  sancl  and  well  rotted  manure.  They  should 
be  mixed  sometime  before  wanted.  Powdered  char- 
coal added  gives  darker  and  more  brilliant  colors  to 
flowers.  The  soil  in  the  pot  should  be  kept  moist,  but 
not  saturated.     When  plants  are  in  a  dormant  state 


100 

mucli  water  is  injurious.  Wlic3ii  growing  plants  arc 
watered,  enough  should  be  given  to  moisten  the  whole 
soil  in  the  pots.  The  top  soil  should  he  frequently 
stirred,  and  occasionally,  waterings  with  a  guano  solu- 
tion are  beneficial.  Plants  should  have  as  much  air  as 
can  be  given  conveniently.  Kill  insects,  by  washing 
with  soap  suds,  then  syringe  the  plants  with  pure  wa- 
ter. Keep  both  plants  and  pots  clean.  Plants  which 
cannot  support  themselves  should  have  sticks  inserted 
close  to  their  side  and  be  tied  to  them. 

Mutilon,  is  increased  by  cuttings,  grows  in -a  rich  loomy  soil. 
It  lias  white  or  buff  grounds  striped  with  rose  or  crimson. 

Cadis,  requires  considerable  heat  and  a  sandy  soil.  Flowers 
pink,  scarlet  and  purple.  The  night  blooming  Cerciis  is  much 
celebrated. 

Calla,  or  Ethiopian  Lily  has  a  large  white  flower  of  great  beau- 
ty. It  requii-es  a  peat  soil  and  a  great  amount  of  water  when 
irrowing.     In  fact  it  D^ay  stand  in  water.     Propagated  by   offsets. 

Carnations  and  Picotees,  are  propagated  by  cuttings,  layers  and 
seed.  They  require  a  rich  soil  and  frequent  waterings  while  blos- 
soming.    Colors  various;   flowers  superb. 

Fuclibia,  or  Ladies'  Eardrop,  is  propagated  by  cuttings.  It  has 
pendant  flowers  of  great  beauty.  Colors,  scarlet,  crimson,  white, 
and  red  and  white. 

Geraniums  are  great  favorites.  They  require  three  parts  peat, 
one  part  sand,  one  of  manure.  The  Harrisonii,  Mrs.  Peck,  Len- 
oxii,  Mrs,  Clay  and  President  are  large  flowered  and  splendidly 
colored. 

Hijdrans^ea  hortcnsis,  is  a  v/ell  known  plant,  of  pink  color  which 
changes  to  blue  when  iron  cinders  are  added  to  the  soil.  It  should 
be  kept  in  the  shade  and  have  an  abundance  of  water. 

Oleander,  an  evergreen  shrub,  has  fine  flowers.  The  plant  is 
troubled  with  a  white  scaly  insect.  To  remove  it,  wash  with  soap 
suds  then  shower  the  plant  with  pure  water. 

Ptiunias,  are  fine  parlor  flowers,  and  succeed  well  if  planted  in 
the  open  ground  when  the  weather  becomes  warm.  The  purple, 
the  white  and  the  pink  penciled  and  with  a  dark  throat,  are  admir- 
ed varieties.     Propagated  by  cuttings  and  seed. 

Roses,  Tea  and  Moss,  succeed  well  in  pot  culture.  Every  par- 
lor should  have  a  variety. 

Stocks,  Queens  and  Hrompton,  furnish  a  beautifiil  display. — 
Propagated  by  secdj   require    a  rich  friable  loam. 

Verbenas,  require  rich  soil  and  sticks  to  support  them.  There 
are  40  varieties,  and  owing  to  their  beauty  and  hardiness  they  are 
everywhere  popular.     Propagated  by  seed  and  cuttings. 


i 


INDEX. 


Kitchen  Gardener. 
Crops,  Rotation  of         -      - 
Cultivators,  Hand 
Dibble, 
Drill-rakes!, 
Engines,  Gaiden 
Garden,  Situation  of 
Glasses,  Hand 
Hot  Reds,  Frame  and  ^Sash 

"         Management  of 

'"         German 

TT  W 

Hoes,         _         -         -  , 

Manures, 

Observations,  Preliminary    - 

Plowing,  Subsoil 

Double 
Propagation  in  general 
Plants,  Early 
Rakes,  Garden 
Spades  and  Shovels, 
Soil,         -         _         - 

'*  Preparation  of 
Shields,  Vine 
Seed,  to  save 

**     Vitality  of 

"     To  start  quick. 
Tools  and  Tool  House, 
Trowel,  Garden 
Tools,  Miscellaneous     . 
Trenching, 
Transplanting, 
Vermin,  Destruction  of 
Water-Carrier, 
Whale  Oil  Soap, 
Wheelbarrow, 


i'co'eiables. 

:25 

Artichoke,  Jerlisalem 

^S 

!4 

Asparagus, 

28 

13 

Balm, 

31 

.  11 

Bean,              -             -         - 

31 

U 

Beet, 

33 

5 

Cabbage, 

33 

12 

Carrot,         -             -         - 

34 

11 

Cauliflower, 

34 

22 

Celery, 

35 

■  12 

Chive, 

36 

-  14 

Corn,             -             -  > 

36 

7 

Cress,          -         - 

37 

.     5 

Cucumber, 

37 

15 

Egg-Plant, 

38 

16 

Endive, 

39 

17 

Fennel, 

39 

21. 

Horse  Radish, 

39 

•  14 

Leek,             -             -         - 

40 

13 

Lettuce, 

40 

6 

Majoram, 

40 

14 

Melon, 

41 

13 

Mint, 

42 

19 

Mustard, 

42 

21 

Nasturtium, 

42 

19 

Onion,             -          -         _ 

42 

10 

''     Potato 

43 

13 

''     Tree 

43 

14 
16 
24 

Parsley, 
Parsnip, 
Pea, 

44 
44 
44 

-  26 
14 

Pepper, 
Potato, 

45 
45 

27 

"     Sweet 

46 

13 

Radish, 

47 

102 


Rhubarb,     • 

47 

f                       Fruits. 

Sage, 

48 

Apples,             - 

63 

Salsify, 

49 

Astracham,  Red 

73 

Savory,           -         _         . 

49 

Baldwin, 

75 

Sea-Kale, 

49 

Bough,  Sweet 

74 

Shallot, 

50 

Gravenstein, 

74 

Spinach  or  Spinage, 

50 

Harvest,  Early 

73 

Squash, 

50 

Jowett's  E.ed, 

74 

Thyme, 

50 

Mother,         -              _         _ 

75 

Tomato, 

50 

Northern  Spy, 

76 

Turnip, 

52 

Pippin,  Fall 

75 

Wormwood, 

53 

Porter, 

74 

Fi'uit  Gardener.  ',• 

Rhode  Island  Greeninor,     - 

76 

Budding, 

58 

Roxbnry  Russet,    . 

76 

"       American  Shield,    - 

59 

Strawberry,  Early 

74 

Cuttings,  Propagation  by    - 

CO 

Swee'tiiie,  Ladies' 

76 

Grafting  and  BuddinjT, 

5() 

Apples,  List  of         -         - 

77 

Grafting  Wax  and  Clay,    - 

56 

Apricots, 

77 

Grafting,  Cleft 

57 

"       Breda, 

77 

''       Stock  scarfed 

57 

"       Moorpark, 

77 

"       Splice 

57 

*'        Roman. 

78 

*'       Saddle 

58 

Blackberries, 

78 

Insects, 

6S 

Cherries, 

78 

"     Apple  Tree  Borer     - 

69 

Early  White  Heart 

78 

"     Apple  Worm  or  Cod- 

"      Mayduke, 

78 

ling  Moth, 

69 

"     *B!ack  Tartarean,    - 

79 

"     Bark  Louse, 

70 

Black  Heart, 

79 

*'     Canker  Worm, 

70 

Black  Eagle, 

79 

*'     Curculio, 

70 

"       Downer's  late  Red, 

79 

"     Caterpillers, 

72 

Currants, 

80 

*'     Peach  Tree  Borer,     - 

72 

List  of 

SO 

"     Slugs,             -         - 

72 

Cranberries, 

80 

Labels, 

64 

'Gooseberries, 

80 

Layers,  Propagation  by     - 

61 

'*          Crown  Bob, 

80 

New  Varieties,  production  o 

f54 

"         Early  Sulphur,  - 

81 

Dr.  Van  Mons'  Theory,     - 

54 

"         Farrow's  Roaring 

Mr.  Knight's  Theory, " 

55 

Lion, 

81 

Pruning, 

65 

Houghton's  Seed- 

Suckers, 

61 

ling, 

81 

Stocks  for  grafting, 

61 

Grapes, 

81 

Training, 

65 

"     Isabella, 

82 

"       Horizontal 

66 

•'     Catawba, 

82 

''       Fan 

66 

"     Diana, 

82 

"       Quenouille 

67 

',     Shurtleff's  Seedling,  - 

82 

"       Pyramidal 

67 

Peaches, 

82 

Trees,  Taking  up 

62 

"       Coolidge's  Favorite 

,83 

"     To  protect  from  Mice, 

68 

George  IV, 

83 

Transplanting, 

m 

"       Grosse  Mignonnc, 

83 

To  induce  early  bearing,     - 

67 

Snow, 

S3 

INDEX.                                     ^      103 

"       Crawford's  Early, 

84 

"       List  of        -         -        92 

Late,     - 

84 

Bulbous  Roots,         -         -      93 

Pears, 

84 

To  cultivate  in  open  ground,  93 

"     Gathering  of 

84 

in  Pots,         -         94 

'*     Dwarf, 

85 

in  Glasses,       -     94 

"     Madeline, 

85 

Crocus,             -              -          95 

''     Bloodgood, 

85 

Crown  Imperial,         -         -    95 

"     Rostiezer, 

86 

Dahlia,         -            -        -       g^j 

"     Bartlett, 

86 

"     List  of        -             -       96 

**     Flemish  Beauty, 

86 

Hyacinths,         -             -          94 

•*     Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey ,86 

Iris,         -             -             -        95 

"     SecUeJ, 

86 

Jonquils,          -         -         -        95 

*'     Duchesse  d'Angoulen: 

e88 

Lilies,         -             -             -    95 

'*     Winter  Nelis, 

86 

Miscellaneous  Bulbs,         -      95 

Pears,  List  of         -         - 

87 

Narcissus,  double  and  single,  95 

Plums,              -             -         - 

87 

"         Polyanthos,      -      95 

*'     Black  Warts  on 

87 

Parlor  Plants,         -          -       99 

"     Early  Yellow  Gage,   ■ 

.  87 

List  of        -      100 

*♦     Green  Gage, 

87 

Roses,         -             -        -        97 

*'     Imperial  Gage, 

87 

*'     Growing  in  pots,       -     97 

"     Jefferson, 

88 

*'     List  of        -            -       98 

''     Coe's  Golden  Drop,  - 

88 

Shrubs  Ornamental           -       99 

Plums,  List  of        -          - 

88 

''     List  of        -             -       99 

Quinces,         -             -         - 

88 

Soil,         -             -             -        90 

Raspbeiries, 

88 

Tuberous  Roots,         -         -  96 

'Strawberries, 

89 

List  of      -         -    96 

List  of 

90 

Tulips,         -          .          -        ^5 

Floral  Gardener. 

Annuals  and  Biennials, 

91 

